Showing posts with label Nymphenburg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nymphenburg. Show all posts

Nazi-era sites around Munich (5)

Staatskanzlei and Munich War Memorial
The Bavarian State Chancellery houses the personal offices of the chancellery staff. It was erected from 1989 to 1993 around the central dome of the former Bavarian Army Museum, which had been built in 1905 at the site of the Hofgartenkaserne barracks and was demolished in World War II.  With reference to Leo von Klenze's neighbouring Festsaalbau of the Munich Residenz, the new building of the Bavarian Army Museum was also influenced by the Italian High Renaissance, but shows the monumentalisation of the late Historicism. The architect was Ludwig Mellinger. The west side of the central building with six columns completes a three-part entablature with limestone figures in the centre and four trophies. The east façade, originally facing no road, was made comparatively restrained. Under the dome was a central room, a "Hall of Fame". This space takes the two upper floors with a height of 32 meters. After its destruction in World War II, the two side wings were torn off, the central building was for a ruin for decades. By 1982, however, the 52 meter high dome with its copper coverage was restored.  The remnants of some renaissance arcades of the Hofgarten in the north were integrated to the building. The two new wings are covered in full length with glazed stairs in the style of Jacob's Ladders, giving the impression of ship stairs. At the request of then-Prime Minister Max Streibl an intimate space with wood panelling and furnishings, ("Zirbelstube") was inserted after the reception room of the Prime Minister, who caused a stir because of high costs. The building comprises about 8,800 m². To the east of the building the stream Köglmühlbach flows past above ground. Before the west side of the courtyard is the war memorial and the equestrian statue for Duke Otto I Wittelsbach.
 
From 1905-1945, this housed the Bavarian Army Museum, founded by Ludwig II. Destroyed during the war with only the dome remaining, it has since been rather impressively reconstructed and is now used by the Bavarian government. In front of the building, beneath a Travertine slab, is a crypt commemorating the unknown soldier.

 During the November 1918 Revolution, and two photographs from memorial ceremonies in December 1924 and November 1931.
The tomb of the Unknown Soldier then and today. Originally erected in front of the former Army Museum (now the Bavarian State Chancellery) in the Hofgarten in 1924 to commemorate the 2 million dead of the Great War, the 'Dead Soldier' sculpted by Bleekers now dedicated to the dead of both world wars. It was also used as a backdrop for nationalist and militaristic propaganda during the Nazi era. Annual remembrance days for war heroes were organised here by both the Wehrmacht and the Nazi party from 1934 onwards. This war memorial modelled on a megalithic tomb was already one of the most visited war memorials in Germany even during the Weimar Republic. Its centrepiece is a crypt in which Bernhard Bleeker’s idealised figure of the “dead soldier” is laid out, representing the 13,000 Munich soldiers who fell in the First World War and whose names were once engraved on the walls of a further walkway that circumscribed the memorial. Damaged during the Second World War, the war memorial was restored on the orders of the American military government, albeit without the names of the 13,000 dead. In the 1950s an inscription was added commemorating the fallen soldiers and civilian victims of the years 1939 to 1945. This dedication reflects the desire of the population to continue commemorating the war dead even after 1945, although its portrayal of both the city and its population exclusively as victims represents a very one-dimensional view. To this day military ceremonies in honour of the dead are still held regularly at the war memorial.
 
How it appeared after the war

Directly in front is the Memorial for the Resistance
Leo Kornbrust’s memorial was unveiled on 24 July 1996 by the Bavarian Minister president Dr. Edmund Stoiber. It is engraved on one side with a line of block letters reading "Zum erinnern zum gedenken" ("To Recall and to Commemorate") under which is a reproduction of a handwritten letter by Generalfeldmarschall Erwin von Witzleben who was arrested the day after the attempted July plot. 
Wir wollen hier nicht urteilen über die verschiedenen möglichen Staatsformen, nur eines will eindeutig und klar herausgehoben werden: jeder Mensch hat einen Anspruch auf einen brauchbaren und gerechten Staat, der die Freiheit des Einzelnen als auch das Wohl der Gesamtheit sichert.
Freiheit der Rede, Freiheit des Bekenntnisses, Schutz des einzelnen Bürgers vor der Willkür verbrecherischer Gewaltstaaten.
Das sind die Grundlagen des neuen Europa.
(We will not pass judgement on the various possible forms of government as only one will be raised clear and unambiguously: every person has a right to a useful and just state that guarantees the freedom of the individual and to he general welfareFreedom of speech, freedom of religion, the protection of individual citizens from the arbitrary will of criminal regimes of violenceThese are the foundations of the new Europe.)
During his trial he was forced to appear in court without his belt and false teeth. On August 8, 1944 he was executed by being hanged by piano wire from a meat hook.

ϟϟ-Deutschland-Kaserne
ϟϟ-Deutschland-Kaserne
These barracks were primarily used by the ϟϟ-Standarte 1 Deutschland until the end of World War II. They had taken part in the annexation of Austria and later the occupation of the Sudetenland before contributing to the annexation of Bohemia and Moravia in March, 1939. It was ordered by Hitler that it should be expanded to a division but the war interrupted this plan. It took part in the invasion of Poland attached to Panzer-Division Kempf and following that campaign it was used to form ϟϟ-Division Verfügungstruppe (later renamed Das Reich). After the war the UNESCO used the buildings to accommodate dispersed persons.

Funk-Kaserne

。 Die Funkkaserne ist eine ehemalige militärische Liegenschaft im Münchener Stadtteil Freimann. Als städtebauliches Projekt wird das Gelände seit 2005 für eine Wohn- und Gewerbebebauung vorbereitet. Inhaltsverzeichnis 1 Luftwaffenkaserne und Resettlement-Center 2 Pionierkaserne der Bundeswehr 3 Zwischennutzung und Künstlerkolonie 4 Städtebauliche Konversion 5 Bundespolizei und denkmalgeschützte Gebäude 6 Einzelnachweise Luftwaffenkaserne und Resettlement-Center Die Funkkaserne wurde im Zuge der Aufrüstung der Wehrmacht von 1936 bis 1938 als Luftwaffen-Nachrichtenkaserne errichtet. Den Zweiten Weltkrieg überstanden die Gebäude weitgehend ohne Schäden. In den Nachkriegsjahren bis Mai 1955 betrieben die US-Armee und die UN Relief and Rehabilitation Administration (UNRRA) in der Funkkaserne das größte süddeutsche Resettlement-Center für Displaced Persons, also eine Übergangsunterkunft für vorwiegend osteuropäische ehemalige Zwangsarbeiter, die während des Zweiten Weltkriegs nach Deutschland verschleppt worden waren. Pionierkaserne der Bundeswehr Von 1956 bis 1992 war das Gelände eine Kaserne des Heeres der Bundeswehr. Trotz der alleinigen Nutzung als Pionierkaserne behielt man den Namen "Funkkaserne" bei. Zuletzt war sie Standort das Pionierbataillons 210, des Pionierlehrbataillons 220 – als Ausbildungseinheit der wenige Kilometer entfernt in der damaligen Prinz-Eugen-Kaserne angesiedelten Pionierschule – und der Panzerpionierkompanie 560. Dem Pionierbataillon 210 (schweres Pionierbataillon des II. Korps) war als Besonderheit ein Bohrzug eingegliedert, der mit seinen Bohrfahrzeugen im Kriegsfall Sprengschächte herstellen sollte. Nach Gerüchten war er für den Einsatz von angeblich bei der US-amerikanischen 10th Special Forces Group in der Flint-Kaserne in Bad Tölz gelagerten Atomminen eingeplant.[1] Die militärische Nutzung der Funkkaserne endete mit einem Abschlussantreten im März 1992 in Anwesenheit des damaligen Staatssekretärs und späteren Bayerischen Ministerpräsidenten Günther Beckstein. Die Funkkaserne war die erste größere Münchner Bundeswehr-Liegenschaft, die im Zuge der Truppenreduzierung aufgegeben wurden. Ab 1993 unterlag das Gelände der zivilen Bundesverwaltung.[2] Zwischennutzung und Künstlerkolonie Bereits ab 1993 wurden die Gebäude des Kasernengeländes für unterschiedliche zivile Nutzungen freigegeben. Dazu zählten Wohnungen für Studierende der Universität der Bundeswehr, das Vorbereitungsbüro des Ökumenischen Kirchentags in München, Räume der Kunstakademie, Konzert- und Veranstaltungshallen sowie – in wachsender Menge – Künstlerateliers. Unter dem Namen Domagkateliers wurden bis zu 300 Künstlerateliers angeboten, woraus die Nutzer den Anspruch ableiteten, die größte Künstlerkolonie Deutschlands darzustellen. Weil eine rasche Bebauung des Geländes mit Wohnungen und Gewerbeeinheiten geplant war, wurde die Ateliernutzung zunächst bis 2003, dann bis 2007 befristet und dauerte in letzten Gebäuden schließlich bis in das Jahr 2011 hinein, als auf einem ein Großteil des Geländes bereits Abrissarbeiten vollzogen wurden. Die Nutzer der Ateliers versuchten durch öffentliche Appelle, den Erhalt einer größeren Zahl von Gebäuden und der Künstlerkolonie zu erreichen.[3][4] Städtebauliche Konversion Baufeld im Jahr 2012 Am 29. Juni 2005 erwarb die Stadt München vom Bund einen Großteil des ehemaligen Kasernengeländes. Nach dem siegreichen Entwurf eines Architektenwettbewerbs (Architekten Ortner & Ortner für Bauplanung, Topotek1 für Grünplanung) wurde das Gelände für 1600 Wohnungen, gewerbliche Einheiten mit rund 1000 Arbeitsplätzen, eine zentrale Grünanlage und einen „Künstlerhof“ mit 6000 Quadratmetern Atelierflächen überplant. Gemeinsam mit angrenzenden, ebenfalls neu zu überplanenden Flächen der Telekom und des Siemens-Konzerns betraf das „Städtebauliche Projekt Domagkstraße“ eine Fläche von 62,6 Hektar. Nach einer Kanal- und Altlastensanierung sowie einem Rückbau des aus Militärzeiten vorhandenen Eisenbahnanschlusses begannen Ende 2010 die Abbrucharbeiten für die ehemaligen Kasernengebäude, eine Fertigstellung der Neubebauung ist für das Jahr 2016 vorgesehen.[5][6] Bundespolizei und denkmalgeschützte Gebäude Ein 8,72 Hektar großes Gebiet in der nordöstlichen Ecke des ehemaligen Kasernengeländes wurde von der städtebaulichen Umwandlung ausgenommen und verblieb im Eigentum des Bundes. Es wird weiterhin von der Bundespolizei für Unterkunfts- und Dienststellengebäude genutzt und soll zugunsten zusätzlicher Wohngebäude verdichtet werden. In diesem Geländeteil befinden sich die ehemalige Haupteinfahrt des Geländes sowie mehrere Gebäude, die militärisch zuletzt vom Pionierbataillon 210 genutzt worden waren: Die Kfz-Werkstatt (Gebäude 77) und Fahrzeugunterstellhallen (Gebäude 78), die Unterkunftsgebäude der ersten und fünften Kompanie sowie des Bohrzugs“ der ersten Kompanie (Gebäude 8, 7 und 6) sowie die denkmalgeschützten Gebäude 1 (ehemaliges Stabsgebäude), 3 und 4 (beides Garagengebäude) sowie 5 (altes Wach- und Arrestgebäude). Außerdem umfasst das Gelände der Bundespolizei den früheren Kasernensportplatz.
Funk-Kaserne
Dating from 1936, now used by the police.

Just outside the reichsadler remains, shorn of its swastika (although traces are left).

Adolf-Hitler-Kaserne
Formerly the Karl-Liebknecht-Kaserne, this is where Hitler stayed after returning to Munich after the Great War until 1920. It was named after him in 1934. Much of it was destroyed during the Second World War and the remaining buildings used for residential purposes.

 Nazi Housing Development
The government of Chancellor Brüning in 1931 established the small settlement programme in order "to promote the population becoming settled in the country to reduce unemployment and to facilitate sufficient living conditions for the unemployed." The future settlers were to be involved in the establishment of their own homes and gardens and small animal husbandry to improve their supply in the economic crisis. The Nazis took over the model because it fit into their anti-modern and anti-urban ideology. 
According to Geoff Walden of Third Reich in Ruins, this first building at Kurfürstenplatz "was likely part of a Third Reich neighbourhood housing development (Siedlung) built in 1938. The Siedlung included a savings bank and a police office, and this building may have been one of those." friend_of_Obersalzberg, who contributed the photo on the left, confirms that it was built in 1938 by architect Hans Atzenbeck.
At that time it was necessary to build new healthy and cheap apartments in Munich. It has 5 entrances and so 5 living units. In the first floor (Erdgeschoß) were stores. In the courtyard was a fountain with a sculpture of a drumming Hitlerjunge. The swastikas and the fountain were removed after war.
Google Street view actually blocks the image of the entire building! Google isn't known for respecting privacy, so could this have been pushed by the authorities given the remaining Nazi-era reliefs?
 February 26, 1938
The coat of arms of Munich on the building with its form under the Nazis and today. On the right the Nazi version reappears on the clothing of a neo-Nazi in Munich.
Better photos of the building can be found on the the Munich thread at Axis History.
These siedlung on Klugstrasse all have bizarre Third Reich, astrological, masonic, and other obscure symbols over every door frame leading inside. To me, it's incredible that they continue to survive and form the entrances to people's homes:

The swastika is still faintly visible...

...whilst this one, dated 1933, is obscured by the shaking hands

Here the hakenkreuz has been erased, but the Nazi salutes allowed to remain!

Another excised swastika that completed the DAF symbol

And yet a couple have had their bizarre symbols completely removed.


The left image shows swords and a steel helmet whilst the one on the right reminds me of the lesson from the Disney wartime cartoon Education for Death...


Mustersiedlung Ramersdorf
Die Mustersiedlung Ramersdorf im Münchner Stadtteil Ramersdorf sollte kurz nach der Machtübernahme des NS-Regimes im Rahmen der"Deutschen Siedlungsausstellung" 1934 als beispielhafte Verkörperung des nationalsozialistischen Siedlungsgedankens präsentiert werden. Innerhalb kürzester Zeit wurden unter der Leitung des Wohnungsbaureferenten und Architekten Guido Harbers 192 Einfamilienhäuser mit 34 unterschiedlichen Bautypen errichtet. Das Ensemble ist in sich geschlossen und hat gemäß der Gartenstadtidee zahlreiche Grünflächen.  Als ausführende Architekten waren unter anderem Friedrich Ferdinand Haindl, Sep Ruf, Franz Ruf, Lois Knidberger, Albert Heichlinger, Max Dellefant, Theo Pabst, Christoph Miller, Hanna Loev und Karl Delisle für die Bauten verantwortlich. Die erhoffte propagandistische Wirkung der Siedlung blieb jedoch aus, da unter anderem die für damalige Verhältnisse großzügige Wohnfläche von 56 bis 129 m2 sowie einzelne modernistische Bauelemente kritisiert wurden.  Nach Ende der Siedlungsausstellung wurden die Häuser als Eigenheime verkauft. Im Jahr 1935 wurde mit der Gustav-Adolf-Kirche in der Siedlung ein protestantischer Kirchenneubau eröffnet. 
 
The sample settlement at Ramersdorf was opened on 9 June 1934 to serve as a model for future settlement projects in Germany. Designed by Guido Habers, this siedlung on Stephanskirchener Straße provided 192 homes with 34 different building types and planned as an alternative to the multi-storey urban houses. The ensemble is self-contained and , pursuant to the garden city idea numerous green spaces.  As executive architects , among others , Friedrich Ferdinand Haindl , Sep Ruf , Franz Ruf , Lois Knidberger , Albert Heichlinger , Max Dellefant , Theo Pabst, Christoph Miller, Hanna Loev Delisle and Charles were responsible for the buildings. The hoped-for propaganda effect of the settlement did not materialise because, among other things, the generous living space for those days 56-129 m2 and individual modernist elements were criticized.  After the exhibition, the settlement houses were sold as homes. In 1935 a Protestant church building was opened with the Gustav Adolf Church in the settlement as shown in the then-and-now photos. A number of frescoes remain, barely, from 1934:
 
St. Christopher on Stephanskirchener Straße 20
  
Above a door on Schlechinger Weg 4 is this coat of arms; the former owner was Paerr and therefore he chose a play on words in the arms of a bear- Bärenwappen. Above one can still make out the inscription "G. P. 1934".
 At Schlechinger Weg 8 is this image of a German African colonial soldier. The original owner had served in Deutsch-Südwestafrika and designed the crest himself before giving it to the artist, Günther Graßmann.
 
Another by Günther Graßmann at Schlechinger Weg 10. The pointer of the sundial is at the centre of a sun, with the dial in the form of an harp. As can be seen in the 1934 photo, the bottom of the fresco depicts a sailing ship. Graßmann was involved in another sundial for the church of St. Raphael, München-Hartmannshofen; I think he was involved in its stained glass, as well: http://www.sankt-raphael-muenchen.de/sonstiges.html
 
Remarkably, the Adolf-Hitler-Brunnen still remains intact at Herrenchiemseestraße 44. On the base of the fountain a swastika with a lime leaf in raised relief was etched and at the back was the following inscription:
 DIESER·BRUNNEN·
WURDE·UNTER·DER HITLERLINDE·
UND·GLEICHZEITIG·MIT·DIESER·GESETZT·
ZUR·ERÖFFNUNG·DER·DEUTSCHEN·SIEDLUNGS·AUSSTELLUNG·
MÜNCHEN·1934
The blocks of stone with the swastika and lime leaf above the water spout were removed after 1945. as was the term " Hitler Linde". This fountain is one of the 75 drinking water wells in Munich.
 
Another water well at Törwanger Straße 2. In 1938 a small mosaic was set up as seen in the photo with a swastika by the painter Günther Grassmann. The mosaic has been coated with a thin layer of plaster and is left empty, the well no longer in operation.

Siedlung on Erich Kastner str.
This example of a siedlung consists of an huge building and on all four corners there are Third Reich reliefs.
The swastikas have been wiped out from the bottom of each relief
 
Similar decorative façade at the corner of Karl - Theodor and Mannheimer streets:
93 Winzererstr.
Another surviving building from the Nazi era with its iconography intact (with the colour still maintained) complete with reichsadler dating from 1936 found by odeon at Axis History Forum.
 
From 1933 to 1937 the Nazis set up Reichskleinsiedlung here at Am Hart, Neuherberg and Kaltherberg after which time the housing policy increasingly turned back to the multi-storey, which could be accomplished more efficiently and cheaper.

Schloss Nymphenburg
 
Within walking distance of Heydrich's house is this, the biggest Baroque palace in Germany, and site of the 1938 Nazi production of "De Nacht van de Amazonen". The photo on the left shows the site during the so-called Day of German Art Festival during the weekend of July 14-16, 1939 in Munich.
 
Schloss Nymphenburg unterm Hakenkreuz and today
Rarely seen amateur colour footage filmed in Friedberg and Munchen in 1938 showing the night masquerade "De Nacht van de Amazonen." The "Burgmaister" of Munchen obtained from the local "Gaulaiter" (the city's Nazi Party chief) the permission for the girls on the chariots to parade with sexy costumes.

Former home of Reinhard Heydrich

This is a photo from my last visit of Reinhard Heydrich's home outside Munich at Zuccalistrasse 4 near Nymphenburg castle. Of this house his wife Lina wrote "When unexpected visitors arrive, the architecture of the house makes it possible for us to make everything disappear in time. Our dog gives us plenty of warning."
At the end of the war, Heydrich's widow returned to the island of Fehmarn with her surviving children. She owned and ran a hotel and restaurant. The Finnish theatre director and poet Mauno Manninen (1915-1969) was a frequent guest at the hotel. He took pity on the difficulties she experienced as a result of her infamous name and offered to marry her to enable her to change it. They married in 1965 but did not live together. She died on August 14, 1985.
See the special Prague section on Operation Anthropoid


 
Grünwalder Stadion einst und jetzt.
 
It was built in 1911 and was the home ground for TSV 1860 München until 1995. During refurbishment of the dilapidated stadium, an unexploded Second World War bomb was found buried within the pitch.
video 
The stadium is immortal for serving as the site of The Philosophers' Football Match, a Monty Python sketch originally featured in the second Monty Python's Fliegender Zirkus depicting a football match in the Olympiastadion at the 1972 Munich Olympics between philosophers representing Greece and Germany.


Auferstanden aus Ruinen

Hackerbrücke after the war and today

The Staatsbibliothek on Ludwigstraße then and now.

What had been an air protection shelter on Hotterstraße was converted in 1947 to an hotel in the town centre.

American troops on Dachauerstr. on April 30, 1945 and the site today.
Completed in 1932, the post office at Goetheplatz after the war and today.
The city brook that run down Baaderstraße and Ickstattstraße shown in 1946 has long dried up.

Sebastiansplatz in 1946 and today
Das Paläontologische Museum in der Nähe des Königsplatzes ist das Ausstellungsforum der Paläontologie und Geobiologie München. Es zeigt imposante Skelette aus der Entwicklungsgeschichte der Wirbeltiere. Neben dem größten Dinosaurier Bayerns zählen hierzu Skelette von Reptilien aus der Zeit vor den Dinosauriern, Flugsaurier, Fischsaurier sowie Säugetiere aus der jüngeren Erdgeschichte. Hier ist vor allem das Skelett des berühmten Mühldorfer Ur-Elefanten zu nennen, aber auch diverse Vertreter des Eiszeitalters wie Säbelzahntiger, Höhlenbär und Riesenhirsch. Des weiteren erwartet die Besucher aktuelle Sonderausstellungen zu wechselnden Themen, die exotische Tierwelt in Bayern vor 16 Millionen Jahren sowie eine „Reise“ durch 4 Milliarden Jahre Leben. Weitere Highlights sind das Münchner Exemplar des Urvogels Archaeopteryx und der kleinste Dinosaurier Bayerns Compsognathus. Das Paläontologische Museum München entführt Sie in die faszinierende Welt der Urzeit.
The former site of the Palaeontological Museum at Neuhauser Straße 51 after being completely destroyed during the April 24th 1944 bombing; 80% of all its fossils were destroyed as well. After the war it was relocated here at Richard-Wagner-Straße 10.
The interior of the Paläontologische Museum in 1949, after the interior was severely damaged from an high-explosive bomb
 
Building the U-Bahn station at the corner of Lindwurmstraße and Rothmundstraße in May, 1938.
 
American tank outside the Imperial Lichtspiele cinema, now the Anna Hotel
Церковь Св. Марка (нем. St. Markus) — евангелическо-лютеранская кирха (церковь), находящаяся в центре города Мюнхен. Она была построена в 1873—1876 годах.  Церковь Св. Марка является штаб-квартирой руководителей деканата Мюнхен и продеканата Мюнхен-Центр.  Содержание      1 Расположение     2 Выполняемые функции     3 Приход     4 Ссылки  Расположение  Церковь Св. Марка находится на Gabelsbergerstraße 6 в южной части района Максфорштадт. Выполняемые функции  Церковь Св. Марка служит в следующих целях:      Штаб-квартира руководителя деканата Мюнхен (Церковный регион Мюнхен)     Штаб-квартира руководителя продеканата Мюнхен-Центр (Церковный регион Мюнхен)     Приходская церковь евангелическо-лютеранского прихода (нем. St. Markus München-Maxvorstadt)     Университетская церковь для вузов Мюнхена  Приход  Приход церкви Св. Марка объединяет евангелических лютеран района Максфорштадт. 
The Markuskirche then and now
 
The gaol at Corneliusstraße no longer exists postwar

Two unidentified eagles stumbled upon in Munich:
 
Can't find any information on this in terms of its date; found accidentally on Liebigstr. whilst walking along the river to Prinzregentenstr with another found at the other end of town on Orleanstr. showing a distinctive eagle of indeterminate origin.
Nazi mementos I found being sold in the front window of a Munich antique shop. It's but one of many I found which surprised me given the country's supposed strict laws concerning the open display of such items (unless used publicly by the Government itself). All swastikas were covered with a round sticker which seems as useful as censoring swear words on television.
рейхсканцелярия Фюрербункер Καταφύγιο του Χίτλερ 総統地下壕 제1차 세계 대전 제2차 세계 대전 홀로코스트 뉘른베르크 전범 재판 하인리히 히믈러 나치 신나치주의 신비주의 히틀러 암살 미수 사건 독일 에바 브라운 겔리 라우발 브론 location of hitler's bunker    “body man”K元首地堡(德语:Führerbunker)殺。5月2日,蘇聯軍隊佔領此處。 大眾文化      電影帝國毀滅即是以此地為主要場景。 al Penn Фюрербункер (Führerbunker (инф.)) — наименование комплекса подземных помещений в Берлине, размещённых под рейхсканцелярией. Этот бункер служил последним убежищем Адольфа Гитлера в течение последних недель существования национал-социалистического режима в Германии. Бункер был штаб-квартирой фюрера, в которой он и ещё ряд нацистских руководителей (включая Геббельса) покончили с войны  Бункер был расположен к северо-востоку от рейхсканцелярии. Пять метров под землей (четыре метра железобетона и метр грунта), тридцать комнат (помещений различного назначения — от конференц-зала до туалета и венткамер), расположенных на двух уровнях с выходами в главное здание и аварийный выход в сад. Бункер имел общую площадь около 250 квадратных метров. Был построен в два этапа (1936 и 1943 годы). Впервые Гитлер посетил Фюрербункер 25 ноября 1944 года. 16 января 1945 года Адольф Гитлер окончательно перебрался в Фюрербункер, но до 15 марта 1945 периодически покидал его, однако 15 марта 1945 с приближением советских войск перестал покидать его окончательно.  Выход из бункера в сквер внутреннего двора Рейхсканцелярии, место сожжения трупа Гитлера После Второй мировой войны  Здание Рейхсканцелярии было снесено, входы в бункер взорваны и засыпаны Munich Pulsing with prosperity and Bavarian Gemütlichkeit (cosiness), Munich loves to revel in its own contradictions. This sophisticated modern metropolis draws as much inspiration from nouvelle cuisine and Hugo Boss as sausages and thick leather shorts. Munich may be a high- minded fellow but pop a keg and he’ll be out there tearing up the dance floor. Polls of wistful Germans confirm Munich is the most popular place to live – and in a blink you’ll see why. Balmy summer evenings at one of its street-side cafés make the city feel like a Florence or a Milan. Thrilling Alpine landscapes, crystal-clear lakes and fairy-tale castles lie at its doorstep. It is a haven for all sorts of culture. And at Oktoberfest the entire planet converges to toast the town. Parts of Germany may have fallen on hard times but Munich shakes it off like magic. A forest of construction cranes dots the landscape, planting hi-tech office towers and sharp, ecofriendly residences where highways once stood. Bavaria never grew much heavy industry, so Munich’s centre retains a small-town feel. Global players such as Siemens and BMW hug the outskirts and their influence lends the city a cosmopolitan flair and a good chunk of its wealth. In the beer gardens you may hear more English than German, and almost as much Italian or Japanese. Forget the Teutonic clichés about grim workaholics – Münchners have plenty to smile about and any time of year the mood is infectious, be it during the tourist-packed summer or the cold stillness of a February afternoon. HIGHLIGHTS Hoisting a mug of Helles at an authentic beer hall, such as the Augustiner Bräu- stuben (p119) Watching the daredevil surfers negotiate the dangerous wave in the English Garden (p105) Getting unusual perspectives – and an incredible adrenaline rush – while clamber- ing around the roof of the Olympic Stadium, Olympiapark (p96) Feeling your spirits soar among the fantastic art of the Alte Pinakothek (p91) Hitting the bars and clubs of the Gärtner- platzviertel (p120) for a night of fun Olympiapark Augustiner Bräustuben Alte Pinakothek   English Garden Gärtnerplatzviertel TELEPHONE CODE: 089 POPULATION: 1.26 MILLION AREA: 310 SQ KM MUNICH MUNICH 74 MUNICH •• History  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Information 75 HISTORY It was the Benedictine monks, drawn by fertile farmland and the closeness to Catholic Italy, who first settled present-day Munich. They also gave the city its name, for München is medieval German for monk. In 1240 the city passed to the Wittelsbach dynasty who would run Munich (as well as Bavaria) until the 20th century. Munich pros- pered as a centre for the salt trade but was hit hard by the outbreak of plague in 1349. When the epidemic finally subsided 150 years later, the Schäffler (coopers) began a ritualis- tic dance to remind burghers of their good fortune. The Schäfflertanz is reenacted daily by the little figures on the city’s glockenspiel (carillon) on Marienplatz. By the early 19th century, furious monu- ment building gave Munich its spectacular architecture and wide Italianate avenues. Culture and the arts flourished, but when Ludwig II ascended the throne his grandiose projects, his numerous lavish palaces for ex- ample, bankrupted the royal house and threat- ened the government. Ironically, today they are the biggest money-spinners of Bavaria’s tourism industry. Munich has seen many turbulent times but last century was particularly rough. WWI practically starved the city; the Nazis first rose to prominence here and the next world war nearly wiped the city off the map. The 1972 Olympic Games ended in tragedy when 17 people were killed in a terrorist hostage-taking incident. In 2006 the city won a brighter place in sporting history when it hosted the opening game of soccer’s World Cup. Today Munich’s claim to being ‘secret capi- tal’ of Germany is alive and well. The city is recognised for its high living standards, the most millionaires per capita after Hamburg and for an appreciation of the good life. ORIENTATION The heart of Munich beats in the Altstadt, the historic centre, where you’ll find such block- buster sights as Marienplatz, Viktualienmarkt, the Residenz and the Hofbräuhaus. North of here are the student and museum quarter of Maxvorstadt and bustling Schwabing with its see-and-be-seen Leopoldstrasse boul- evard and the vast English Garden. Keep going north and you’ll eventually arrive at the Olympiapark, while further west, Schloss Nymphenburg lords it over Neuhausen, an unprepossessing residential quarter with great pub life. To the south, Neuhausen seg- ues smoothly into multicultural Westend, MUNICH IN... One Day Spend your first day exploring Munich’s historic Altstadt. Get your bearings from the St Peterskirche tower (p77), peruse the colourful bounty at the Viktualienmarkt (p77), then keep a tab on the city’s evolution at the Münchner Stadtmuseum (p87), whose Third Reich exhibit makes a poign- ant transition to the nearby Jüdisches Museum (p87). Duck into the lavishly baroque Asamkirche (p87), then compare it to the Gothic starkness of the landmark Frauenkirche (p90). Time for lunch and perhaps some shopping in the Fünf Höfe arcade (p90). In the afternoon, pick your favourite Pinakothek museum (p91), then cap the day with a classic Bavarian meal, for instance in the Augustiner Bräustuben (p119). Two Days Tour the royal splendour of the Residenz (p88), then relax in the English Garden (p96). Follow up with a coffee break in a Schwabing café, then treat your ears to a concert at the Kulturzentrum Gasteig (p103) or Jazzclub Unterfahrt (p122) and finish the night with a bar hop around the Gärtnerplatzviertel (p120). More Days If you’ve got more time, definitely head out to Schloss Nymphenburg (p99), visit the Deutsches Museum (p101), browse the funky boutiques in the Gärtnerplatzviertel and confront the ghosts of Dachau Concentration Camp (p131). If you need a break from urbanity, head to the Fünf- Seen-Land (p127). whose still affordable rents are drawing a growing contingent of artists and scene- sters. It’s also not far from the Oktoberfest grounds on Theresienwiese. East of the Wiesn, Ludwigvorstadt has a split personal- ity with lovely, villa-studded residential streets around Beethovenplatz and a slightly seedy vibe just south of the Hauptbahnhof. Past the Sendlinger Tor, the Glockenbachviertel is Munich’s lesbigay HQ and, along with the adjacent Gärtnerplatzviertel, the current hipster zone with alt-flavoured bars, interest- ing restaurants and the best clubs in town. East of here, on the right (south) Isar bank, Haidhausen is a district in transition that mixes high-brow culture with a down-and- dirty party scene and progressive restaurants. Across the river, peaceful Lehel brims with stylish Art Deco apartment houses and key museums along Prinzregentenstrasse. Maps Falk’s foldout concertina maps of Munich are the handiest to use. Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil Club’s (ADAC) large-format map is good but is tricky to use while driving. INFORMATION Bookshops Geobuch (Map pp82-3; %265 030; Rosental 6, Altstadt; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat) Best travel book- shop in town. Hugendubel (www.hugendubel.de) Karlsplatz (Map pp82-3; %484 484; Karlsplatz 11-12); Marienplatz (Map pp82-3; %484 484; Marienplatz 22) Excellent all-purpose chain with reading corners, a café, and plenty of travel guides and English books. Hugendubel English Bookshop (Map pp82-3; %01801-484 484; Salvatorplatz 2, Altstadt) Huge selec- tion of novels, guidebooks and nonfiction in the original Hugendubel branch. Sussmann Presse & Buch (Map pp82-3; %551 170; Hauptbahnhof ) Major English-language publications and books for reading between train stops. Words’ Worth Books (Map p81; %280 9141; Schell- ingstrasse 3, Maxvorstadt) Academic tomes and literature in English near the university. Emergency Ambulance (%192 22) Fire (%112) Lost & Found (Map pp78-9; %01805-386 328; Ötztaler Strasse 17, Untersendling; h8.30am-noon Mon-Thu, 7am-noon Fri, 2-6.30pm Tue) Take U6 to Partnachplatz. Police (%110) Nonemergencies (Map pp82-3; %545 8290; Arnulfstrasse 1, Ludwigvorstadt) Rape Crisis Hotline (%763 737; h10am-11pm Mon-Fri, 6pm-2am Sat & Sun) Internet Access Most public libraries offer internet access for €0.50 per 30 minutes; see www.muenchner -stadtbibliothek.de (in German). Cyberice-Café (Map p81; %3407 6955; Feilitzschstrasse 15, Schwabing; per 30/60 min €1.50/2.50; h10am-1am) In an ice-cream parlour near the English Garden. easyInternetCafe (Map pp82-3; Bahnhofplatz 1; per hr €1-3.80; h7.30am-11.45pm) Rude staff and confusing price scheme but easy to find and with 600 terminals. MISC-24 (Map pp82-3; %2371 2672; Weinstrasse 6/cnr Sporergasse; per 30min €1; h24hr) With extra services such as printing and CD burning. A second branch is in the passageway at Sonnenstrasse 8 near Karlsplatz (Map pp82–3). Internet Resources www.muenchen-tourist.de Munich’s official website. www.munichfound.de Munich’s expat magazine. www.toytowngermany.com English-language community website with specialised Munich pages. Left Luggage Gepäckaufbewahrung (staffed storage room; %1308 6664; main hall, Hauptbahnhof; per 24hr per piece €4; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-6pm Sun) Lockers (Hauptbahnhof main hall & opposite tracks 16, 24 & 28-36; per 24hr €2-4; h4am-12.30am) Libraries Bayerische Staatsbibliothek (see p94) Stadtbücherei Haidhausen (city library; Map p85; %4809 8316; Rosenheimer Strasse 5); Schwabing (Map p81; %336 013; Hohenzollernstrasse 16); Westend (Map pp82-3; %507 109; Schrenkstrasse 8) Media Abendzeitung Light broadsheet that, despite the name, has a morning delivery. Münchner Merkur The city’s archconservative daily. Süddeutsche Zeitung Widely read regional paper with a liberal streak. Monday’s edition has a New York Times supplement in English. tzDailylocaltabloid. Discount Cards City Tour Card (www.citytourcard.com; 1/3 days €9.80/18.80) Includes transport and discounts of between 10% and 50% for about 30 attractions, including the Residenz, the zoo and Bier- und Oktoberfestmuseum. It’s available at some hotels, Munich public transport authority (MVV)offices,andU-BahnandS-Bahnvendingmachines. MUNICH MUNICH 76 MUNICH •• Dangers & Annoyances lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Sights 77 Medical Services The US and UK consulates (p316) can provide lists of English-speaking doctors. Bereitschaftsdienst der Münchner Ärzte (Map pp82-3; %01805-191 212; Elisenhof; h24hr) Non- emergency medical services with English-speaking doctors. Chirurgische Klinik (Map pp82-3; %5160 2611; Nussbaumstrasse 20; h24hr) Emergency room. Emergency Dentist (%723 3093; h10am-11pm) Emergency Pharmacy (%594 475; www.apotheken .de, in German) Referrals to the nearest open pharmacy. Most pharmacies have employees who speak passable English, but there are several desig- nated ‘international’ pharmacies with staff fluent in English. Bahnhof-Apotheke (Map pp82-3; %598 119; Bahn- hofplatz 2, Ludwigsvorstadt) Internationale Ludwigs-Apotheke (Map pp82-3; %550 5070; Neuhauser Strasse 11, Altstadt) Metropolitan Pharmacy (%9759 2950; central area, 3rd fl; h6.30am-9pm) At the airport. Money Reisebank (Map pp82-3; %551 080; Bahnhofplatz; h7am-10pm) At the Hauptbahnhof. EurAide’s newslet- ter the Inside Track gets you a 50% reduction on commis- sions at this branch. Travelex (Map pp82-3; %235 0920; Petersplatz 10; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat) Post For additional branches, see the tourist of- fice map, search www.deutschepost.de or call %01802-3333. Post office (Map pp82-3; Bahnhofplatz 1; h7.30am- 8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) Tourist Information ADAC (Map pp82-3; %5491 7231; Sonnenstrasse 23; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) EurAide (Map pp82-3; %593 889; www.euraide .de; Hauptbahnhof; h8am-12.30pm & 2-6pm May-Sep, 8am-noon & 2-5pm Oct-Apr) The office makes reservations, sells tickets for DB trains and a variety of tours, such as the ‘Two Castles in a Day’ tour to Neuschwanstein and Hohen- schwangau, and finds rooms (€3 per booking). EurAide’s free newsletter, the Inside Track, is packed with practical info about the city and surroundings, and gives discounts on moneychanging. The office is next to the Reisezentrum, between the U-Bahn and the Subway sandwich shop. Infopoint Museums & Castles (Map pp82-3; %2101 4050; www.infopoint-museen-bayern.de; Alter Hof 1; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat) Information central for museums and palaces throughout Bavaria. Tourist Office (%2339 6500; www.muenchen .de) Hauptbahnhof (Map pp82-3; Bahnhofplatz 2; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun); Marienplatz (Map pp82-3; Neues Rathaus, Marienplatz 8; h10am- 8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Opens longer in summer and during holidays DANGERS & ANNOYANCES During Oktoberfest crime and staggering drunks are major problems, especially around the Hauptbahnhof. It’s no joke: drunks in a crowd trying to get home can get violent, and there are about 100 cases of assault every year. Leave early or stay very cautious, if not sober, yourself. Strong and unpredictable currents make cooling off in the Eisbach creek in the English Garden more dangerous than it looks. Exercise extreme caution: there have been several deaths. SIGHTS Each of Munich’s districts has its own appeal, but must-sees concentrate in the Altstadt, and north of here in the Maxvorstadt mu- seum quarter and Schwabing with the English Garden. Schloss Nymphenburg and the Olympia Park are a bit further afield, but well worth the effort. Altstadt MARIENPLATZ & AROUND The heart and soul of the Altstadt, Marienplatz is a popular gathering spot and packs a lot of personality into its relatively small frame. It’s anchored by the Mariensäule (Map pp82–3; Mary’s Column), built in 1638 to celebrate victory over Swedish forces during the Thirty Years’ War; it’s topped by a golden statue of the Virgin Mary balancing on a crescent moon. At 11am and noon (also 5pm March to October), the square jams up with tourists craning their necks to take in the animated Glockenspiel (carillon) in the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall), a neo-Gothic fantasy fes- tooned with gargoyles, statues and a dragon scaling the turrets; the tourist office is on the ground floor. For pinpointing Munich’s landmarks without losing your breath, catch the lift up the 85m-tall tower (adult/child €2/1; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun). The carillon has 43 bells and 32 figures that perform two actual historic events. The top half tells the story of a knight’s tournament held in 1568 to celebrate the marriage of Duke TOP FIVE VIEWS OF MUNICH Bavaria – see the Oktoberfest through her eyes (p100) Frauenkirche – put the Alps and Alts- tadt at your feet (p90) Monopteros – survey the charms of the English Garden (p96) Olympiaturm – ogle panoramic views of up to 100km (p97) St Peterskirche – survey all of Munich’s major landmarks (below) Wilhelm V to Renata of Lothringen, while the bottom half portrays the Schäfflertanz (p74). If you want to see the show at eye level, head to the top floor of the Hugendubel book shop (p75) or snag a table at the Café Glockenspiel (p120). Altes Rathaus The eastern side of Marienplatz is dominated by the Altes Rathaus (Map pp82–3; old town hall). Lightning got the better of the medieval original in 1460 and WWII bombs levelled its successor, so what you see is really the third incarnation of the building designed by Jörg von Halspach of Frauenkirche fame. On 9 November 1938 Joseph Goebbels gave a hate-filled speech here that launched the nationwide Kristallnacht pogroms. Today it houses the adorable Spielzeug- museum (Toy Museum; Map pp82-3; %294 001; Alter Rathausturm, Marienplatz 15; adult/child €3/1; h10am- 5.30pm), with its huge collection of rare and precious toys from throughout Europe and the US. The oldest ones – made of paper, tin and wood – are on the top floor and from the 3rd you have a neat view of Marienplatz and Tal street. Lovesick? Head to the old town hall’s south side and pay your respects to Romeo’s heart- throb Juliet, a beautiful bronze sculpture that was a gift from Munich’s sister city, Verona. Leave her some flowers and your love life will improve... St Peterskirche It requires a little effort (306 steps, to be precise), but for our money the best view of central Munich is from the 92m-tall tower of the St Peterskirche (Church of St Peter; Map pp82-3; %260 4828; Rindermarkt 1; church admission free, tower adult/child €1.50/0.30; hchurch 7.30am-7pm Thu-Tue, 7.30am-2pm Wed, tower 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun), Munich’s oldest church (1180). Also known as ‘Alter Peter’ (Old Peter), it’s a vir- tual textbook of art through the centuries, from the Gothic St-Martin-Altar to Johann Baptist Zimmermann’s baroque ceiling fresco and Ignaz Günther’s rococo sculptures, plus some really creepy relics of an obscure saint named Munditia. VIKTUALIENMARKT & AROUND Fresh fruits and vegetables, piles of artisan cheeses, tubs of exotic olives, hams and jams, chanterelles and truffles – Viktualienmarkt (Map pp82-3; hvaries, generally 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) is a feast of flavours and one of Europe’s finest gourmet markets. Prices are high, natu- rally, but so is the quality and many items sold here are hard to find elsewhere. Generally speaking, stalls along the main walkways are more expensive than those a little off to the side. A fun thing to do is to lug your treats to the market’s beer garden (p118) for a picnic with a brew and view of the market action. Stalls – many of them family-run for gen- erations – were first set up here in 1807 after the market had outgrown its original spot on Marienplatz. To make room for it, the medieval hospice attached to the still extant Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit; Map pp82-3; %224 402; Im Tal 77; h7am-6pm) had been levelled a year earlier. Gothic at its core, the church has fantastic ceiling frescos depicting the hospice foundation in 1720, courtesy of the Asam brothers. A few paces southwest of the stalls is the Schrannenhalle (Map pp82-3; %518 1818; Viktualienmarkt 15; admission free; h24hr), a 19th-century grain market hall reconstructed in 2005. The 400m- long glass-and-iron structure itself is quite impressive but the overpriced and often tacky shops and cafés inside are not. East of the Viktualienmarkt is the Bier- und Oktoberfestmuseum (Beer- & Oktoberfestmuseum; Map pp82-3; %2423 1607; www.bier-und-oktoberfestmuseum .de, in German; Sterneckerstrasse 2; adult/child/family €4/2.50/6; h1-5pm Tue-Sat), where you can learn all about the golden nectar and the world’s favourite drink-up. Think four floors of old brewing vats, historic photos and some of the earliest Oktoberfest regalia. The building it- self, a sensitively restored survivor from 1340, (Continued on page 87) MUNICH MUNICH Kahr- Otto-Warburg-Str Agnes- pter-Str Seebach Dachaue Str Am Blütenanger Münchner Str Heidemannstr Lerchenauer Str Str Gr Elbach Fahrbach Brumbach furter Ring Schleissheimer Str Moosacher Str Föhringer Ring Pasinger Domagkstr Str Feldmochinger gerstr Auenbrug Heuweg Landshuter Allee -Str Kreisstr Str Baldur Münchner Von- Allacher Str Nederling Dachauer Str 2 SCHW ���� 2 Georg-Brauchle-Ring Baubergerstr Obere Mühlstr Lochha Leopoldstr us Menzinger en Hugo-Troendle er Str Johanneskirchner Str str kerman Ac nstr Ungererstr Str Freis er Str Isar Bergson Str Waisenhaus chütz ere-Reiter Cosimastr -Str str Nordendstr Ring str Dachauer Str Alte Allee Str Str Leonrodstr Schw Oberföhringer Str Str nger Englischalki Arcisstr Schleissheimer Str etrich-Str -Str Wendl-Di Aubinger Bülowstr Nymphenburger Str Ostpreussenstr Barer Str Str Arnulfstr Landshutter Allee burger Str Landsberger Str Welten Westpreussenstr Von-der-Tan-Str erstr Prinzregentenstr Frank Toginger Str Riemer Str Str Weinberg er-Str Str Landsberger Toginger Str Maximilianstr Weinstr Str Ismaninger Str Landstr Gotthardstr Planegger Innere- Wiener-Str Blumenauer Paul-Heyse-Str Hanauer Truderinger Wilib Neumarkter Str Orleansstr Str str Schatzbogen Verdistr burger Str Ampfingstr Hansastr Pippinger Fürstenrieder Str Westend Zielstattstr Truderinger Am Milterfeld Hohenzollern Schach Garmi enstr Ammerseestr Zschokkestr str Michaelstr Regerstr Martinstr Bernau str Haderunstr Guardinistr ener Str Ring seestr hau en Hecht W mgau Albert-Roß Bajuwar Inn Str Str Str str Str Chie Olympiastr Einsteinstr aldstr Grünwalder Effnerstr Passauer Kindl-Weg Stadelheimer Höglwörther Str Str Wolfratshauser Str Isar scher Fritz-Erler- Forst-Kasten-Allee str Aidenbachstr sbrucker Str Münchner- 6 FORSTENRIED STADT SOLLN LUDWIGS- HÖHE Training Camp.................3 E5 Schloss Blutenburg...............4 A2 Tierpark Hellabrunn.............5 D5 WALDPERLACH 6 78 GREATER MUNICH �� Forst ��0 ��2 km ������ 0 1 mile 79 To Allianz F Arena (1.5km); G H KIEFERN- Munich Airport FROTTMANINGER GARTEN (30km); Freising (35km) To Augsburg (65km); Stuttgart (225km) MOOSACH A8 ������ Langwied Westkreuz Schlosspark Gern Hohenzollernplatz Münchner HIRSCHAU Freiheit FIDELIOPK ENGLSCHALKING 3 ������ �������� 3 A Tunnel B To Dachau (10km) C Allacher LUDWIGSFELD ANGER D E NEULANGWIED NEULUSTHEIM Böhmerwaldplatz Parkstadt ABCDEF 33 Berg Am Laim 30 B L 86   lonelyplanet.com MUNICH •• Sights 87 THIS MAP NOT AVAILABLE IN PICK & MIX (Continued from page 77) has some great medieval features, including painted ceilings and a kitchen with an open fire. The earthy pub is open 5pm to midnight (closed Monday). JÜDISCHES MUSEUM & AROUND Coming to terms with its Nazi past has not exactly been a priority in Munich, which is why the opening of the Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum; Map pp82-3; %2339 6096; www.juedisches -museum.muenchen.de; St-Jakobs-Platz 16; adult/concession €6/3; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) in early 2007 was hailed as a major milestone. Relatively small and as yet without much of its own collection, its permanent exhibit in the basement offers insight into Jewish history, life and culture in Munich, creatively presented in seven in- stallations. The Holocaust is dealt with, but the accent is clearly on contemporary Jewish culture, especially in the changing exhibits on the two upper floors. The museum is part of the new Jewish com- plex on St-Jakobs-Platz that also includes a community centre with a restaurant and a synagogue that’s rarely open to the public. The ensemble reflects the burgeoning renais- sance of Munich’s Jewish population, which numbers around 9300, making it the second largest in Germany after Berlin. Münchner Stadtmuseum You could spend hours roaming through the collections of the rambling Münchner Stadtmuseum (City Museum; Map pp82-3; %2332 2370; www.stadtmuseum-online.de, in German; St- Jakobs-Platz 1; adult/concession/family €4/2/6, free Sun; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), making it a perfect rainy day destination. Historical exhibits help you understand how the royal residence evolved into today’s modern metropolis, but the main artistic draw is the ensemble of Erasmus Grasser’s 10 sprite-like Morris Dancers (1480), medieval travelling entertainers who performed at court and on market squares. The late Gothic fig- ures originally adorned the ballroom of the Altes Rathaus. Also of special note is the small but pow- erful section on Munich during the Third Reich that forms an enlightening complement to the nearby Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum). Set in a windowless hall among riveted steel plates, it reveals the city as the birthplace and spiritual centre of Nazism through excellent visuals – photographs to propaganda post- ers, Gestapo uniforms to flags, underground resistance papers to letters from concentration camp victims. The upper floors house the speciality col- lections. A delightful diversion, not only for tots, is the Puppentheater-Museum, a fantasy world inhabited by an international cast of hand puppets, marionettes, shadow puppets, stick figures, and all manner of dolls, dragons and devils. Call for upcoming shows. The Musikinstrumenten-Museum is packed with fun, precious and rare sound ma- chines from around the world, including Indonesian ceremonial gongs and mechani- cal musical instruments. Some of them are cranked up regularly during concerts. The Foto Museum (Photography Museum) focuses on the early years of the medium, beginning around 1840. The Filmmuseum keeps things dynamic with well-curated screenings of tributes, ret- rospectives, foreign films, both old and new. Directors, actors and film historians often swing by for pre-show presentations. Asamkirche Though pocket-sized, the late baroque Asamkirche (Map pp82-3; Sendlinger Strasse 62; admission free; h8am-5.30pm), built in 1746, is as rich and epic as a giant’s treasure chest. Its creators, the brothers Cosmas Damian and Egid Quirin, dipped deeply into their considerable talent box to swathe every inch of wall space with paintings, putti (cherubs), gold leaf and stucco flourishes. The crowning glory is the ceiling fresco illustrating the life of St John Nepomuk to whom the church is dedicated (lie down on your back in a pew to fully appreciate the complicated perspective). The brothers lived next door and this was originally their pri- vate chapel. One neat trick was that the main altar could be seen through a window from their home. More of Cosmas’ masterful frescoes can be viewed in the ornate Damenstiftskirche (Map pp82-3; Damenstiftstrasse 1) just north of Sendlinger Strasse. HOFBRÄUHAUS & AROUND No visit to Munich would be complete with- out a stop at the Hofbräuhaus (p119), Bavaria’s most celebrated beer hall. The writhing hordes of tourists tend to overshadow the MUNICH 88 MUNICH •• Sights  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Sights 89 sterling interior, where dainty twirled flow- ers and Bavarian flags adorn the medieval vaults. The swirl of flags underneath the chandeliers recently got a paint job to mini- mise their resemblance to Nazi swastikas. The ballroom upstairs was the site of the first large meeting of the National Socialist Party on 20 February 1920. Northwest of here is the central court- yard of the Alter Hof (Map pp82-3; Burgstrasse 8), the oldest Wittelsbach residence with origins in the 12th century and 1282 birthplace of Holy Roman Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian. The bay window on the southern façade was nicknamed ‘Monkey Tower’ in honour of a monkey that saved the infant ruler from the clutches of a ferocious market pig. Local lore at its finest. Exit the courtyard at its northern end and continue north on Hofgraben, past the former Münzhof (mint; Map pp82–3). This historic courtyard is remarkable for its three-storey arcades dating from 1567. An inscription on the western side of the building reads Moneta Regis (Money Rules). RESIDENZ The Residenz (Map pp82–3) is a suitably grand palace that reflects the splendour and power of the Wittelsbach clan, the Bavarian rulers who lived here from 1385 to 1918. The edifice dwarfs Max-Joseph-Platz along with the grandiose Nationaltheater, home to the Bavarian State Opera (p123). Its mu- seums are among the jewels in Munich’s cultural crown. A quadriga of giant bronze lion plaques guards the entrance to the palace on Residenz- strasse, supported by pedestals festooned with a half-human, half-animal face. Note the crea- tures’ remarkably shiny noses. If you wait a moment, you’ll see the reason for the sheen: scores of people walk by and casually rub one or all four noses. It’s supposed to bring you wealth and good luck. Residenzmuseum The Wittelsbach’s amazing treasures, as well as all the trappings of their lifestyles, are on display at the Residenzmuseum (Map pp82-3; %290 671; www.residenz-muenchen.de; enter from Max-Joseph- Platz; adult/under 18/concession incl audioguide €6/free/5; h9am-6pm Apr–mid-Oct, 10am-5pm mid-Oct–Mar), which takes up 130 rooms or about half of the palace. It’s so large that it’s divided into two sections, one open until 12.30pm, the other in the afternoon, although the most important sections overlap. You can see it all on guided tours or on your own with an audioguide. If you only have time for one tour, come in the morning. Both tours soon take you to the Grottenhof (grotto court), home of the wonderful Perseusbrunnen (Perseus Fountain), with its namesake holding the dripping head of Medusa. Next door is the famous Antiquarium, a barrel-vaulted hall smothered in frescoes and built to house the Wittelsbachs’ enor- mous antique collection. This leads to the Schlachtensäle (Battle Halls) decorated with scenes from the Napoleonic campaigns, some of which Ludwig himself participated in. Upstairs and only accessible in the morning aretheKurfürstenzimmer(Elector’sRooms),with some stunning Italian portraits and a passage lined with two dozen views of Italy, painted by local romantic artist Carl Rottmann. Also up here, and accessible all day, are François Cuvilliés’ Reiche Zimmer (Rich Rooms), a six- room extravaganza of exuberant rococo car- ried out by the top stucco and fresco artists of the day; they’re a definite museum highlight. Both tours also take you through the down- stairs Ahnengallery (Ancestors’ Gallery), a riot in rococo with 121 portraits of the rulers of Bavaria in chronological order. Only open in the afternoon are two chap- els: the Hofkapelle, which was reserved for the ruler and his family; and the Reichekapelle for the other court residents. Another highlight is the Steinzimmer (Stone Room), awash in intricately patterned and coloured marble, which was where the emperor stayed during his Munich visits. Even without a museum ticket, you’re free to visit the Nibelungensäle (Halls of the Nibelungs) off the Königsbauhof court- yard to marvel at an exhibit depicting the near total destruction of the Residenz in WWII and the miraculous restoration in subsequent decades. A combination ticket with the Schatz- kammer is €9/8. Schatzkammer der Residenz The Residenzmuseum entrance also leads to the Schatzkammer der Residenz (Residence Treasury; Map pp82-3; %290 671; www.residenz-muenchen.de; enter from Max-Joseph-Platz; adult/under 18/concession €6/free/5; h9am-6pm Apr–mid-Oct, 10am-5pm mid-Oct–Mar). It’s an Aladdin’s cave worth of jewel-encrusted crowns, sceptres and royal accoutrements. Included among the mind-boggling treas- ures are portable altars, the ruby jewellery of Queen Therese, amazing pocket watches, and ‘exotic handicrafts’ from Turkey, Iran, Mexico and India. It’s well worth the entry price. Cuvilliés Theater One of Europe’s finest rococo theatres, the Cuvilliés Theatre (Map pp82-3; %290 671; adult/under 18 /concession €3/free/2; h9am-6pm Apr–mid-Oct, 10am-5pm mid-Oct–Mar) hosted the premiere of Mozart’s opera Idomeneo. The sumptuous interior is expected to emerge from major restoration by this book’s publication. To get there, enter the court on Residenzstrasse, walk through the Kapellenhof to the Brunnenhof and the entrance will be on your left. Staatliches Museum Ägyptischer Kunst Late 19th-century archaeologists dug up some excellent finds, some of which made their way into the Staatliches Museum Ägyptischer Kunst (Egyptian Art Museum; Map pp82-3; %298 546; www .aegyptisches-museum-muenchen.de, in German; enter from Hofgartenstrasse 1; adult/concession/child under 16 €5/4/free, Sun €1; h9am-9pm Tue, 9am-5pm Wed-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun). It’s in the northwestern wing of the Residenz (look for the obelisk) and has a small but choice collection of sculpture, jewellery, vases and other objects from 5000 years of art in ancient Egypt. Highlights include the gilded coffin mask of Queen Sat-dejhutji (1650 BC) and a rare double statue of King Niuserre (2390 BC) showing him both as a young and an old man. Hofgarten Office workers catching some rays during their lunch break, stylish mothers pushing prams, seniors on bikes, a gaggle of chatty nuns – everybody comes to the Hofgarten (Map pp82–3). The formal court gardens with fountains, radiant flower beds, lime tree-lined gravel paths and benches galore sits just north of the Residenz. Paths converge at the Dianatempel (Map pp82–3), a striking oct- agonal pavilion honouring the Roman god- dess of the hunt. In summer it’s a favourite spot for classical music recitals. Boules players gather by the arcades on the park’s north side, where the Deutsches Theatermuseum (German Theatre Museum; Map pp82-3; %210 6910; Galeriestrasse 4a; admission free; h10am- 4pm Tue-Sun) trains the spotlight on theatre in German-speaking countries with sets, props, costumes, masks and programmes in chang- ing themed exhibits. Bavaria’s governor keeps his office in the humongous Bayerische Staatskanzlei (Bavarian Chancellery; Map pp82-3; %216 50; Franz-Josef-Strauss- Ring 1), which takes up the entire eastern flank of the Hofgarten. It’s a strikingly modern glass palace built around the restored centre section of the Army Museum that for years stood as a ruined antiwar memorial. MAXIMILIANSTRASSE It’s pricey and pretentious, but no trip to Munich would be complete without a saun- ter down Maximilianstrasse, one of the city’s grandest boulevards. Starting at Max-Joseph- Platz, it’s a 1km-long ribbon of style where sample-size fembots browse for Escada and Prada, and suits sip champagne in pavement cafés, with nary a hair out of place. Several of Munich’s finest theatrical venues, includ- ing the Nationaltheater, the Kammerspiele and the Kleine Komödie am Max II, are also here. Built between 1852 and 1875, Maximilian- strasse was essentially an ego trip of King Max II. He harnessed the skills of architect Friedrich von Bürklein to create a unique sty- listic hotchpotch ranging from Bavarian rustic to Italian Renaissance and English Gothic. It even became known as the ‘Maximilianic Style’. That’s the king gazing down upon ‘his’ boulevard – engulfed by roaring traffic – from his perch at the centre of the strip. Clinging to the base are four rather stern-looking ‘chil- dren’ holding the coats of arms of Bavaria, Franconia, Swabia and the Palatinate. ODEONSPLATZ & AROUND Odeonsplatz marks the beginning of the Maxvorstadt, a 19th-century quarter built to link central Munich with Schwabing to the north. Leo von Klenze masterminded its overall design and several of the buildings, including the Leuchtenberg-Palais (Map pp82-3; %230 60; Odeonsplatz 4; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri), a stately town palace modelled after a Roman palazzo and now home of the Bavarian Finance Ministry. There are several nice, if pricey, cafés, including Schumann’s Bar (p119) as well as the plushly furnished Café Tambosi, which has a pedigree going back more than 200 years and used to be popular with Munich’s high society. MUNICH MUNICH 90 MUNICH •• Sights  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Sights 91 SIDESTEPPING THE GOOSE STEPS The little Viscardigasse, which runs behind the Feldherrnhalle, came to be known as Drückebergergasse (Dodger’s Alley) during the Third Reich. To commemorate the 16 Nazis who died during the Beer Hall Putsch, Hitler installed a guarded memorial along Residenzstrasse and required all passers-by to give the Hitler salute. The only way to ‘dodge’ such nonsense was by sneaking through Viscardigasse instead, a small act of civic defiance. Theatinerkirche The mustard-yellow Theatinerkirche (Map pp82-3; %210 6960; Theatinerstrasse 22), built to commemo- rate the 1662 birth of Prince Max Emanuel, was dreamed up by Swiss architect Enrico Zuccalli. Also known at St Kajetan, it’s a voluptuous design with two massive twin towers flanking a giant cupola. Inside, an intensely ornate dome lords over the Fürstengruft (royal crypt), the final destination of several Wittelsbach rulers, including King Maximilian II. Feldherrnhalle Corking up Odeonsplatz’s south side is the Feldherrnhalle (Field Marshall’s Hall; Map pp82-3; Residenzstrasse 1), built by Klenze’s main rival Friedrich von Gärnter and modelled on the Loggia dei Lanzi in Florence. Sombre and chunky, it honours the valour of the Bavarian army and positively drips with testosterone; just check out the statues of General Johann Tilly, who kicked the Swedes out of Munich during the Thirty Years’ War; and Karl Phillip von Wrede, who first fought with, then against Napoleon in the early 19th century. It was here on 9 November 1923 that police stopped the so-called Beer Hall Putsch, Hitler’s attempt to bring down the Weimar Republic. A fierce skirmish left 20 people, including 16 Nazis, dead. A plaque in the pavement of the square’s eastern side commemorates the police officers who perished in the incident. Hitler was tried and sentenced to five years in jail, but ended up serving a mere nine months, which he used to give birth to his hate-filled manifesto Mein Kampf. Fünf Höfe Munich usually feels more cosy than cos- mopolitan, but one exception is the Fünf Höfe (Map pp82–3), a ritzy shopping arcade whose modernist design is as interesting as the fancy flagship and concept stores lin- ing its passageways. There’s plenty of steel and glass, fountains and public art, as well as a great ‘hanging garden’ with real vines dangling from the ceiling. Shopping opt- ions include Armani, Alessi, D&G and even a branch of the Japanese department store Muji. Cafés invite refuelling and people- watching, and there’s also the Kunsthalle der Hypo-Kulturstiftung (Map pp82-3; %224 412; www .hypo-kunsthalle.de; Theatinerstrasse 8; admission varies, usually adult/concession €8/4, half-price Mon; h10am- 8pm), an art space with high-calibre changing exhibits. Entrances to the Fünf Höfe are on Theatinerstrasse, Salvatorstrasse, Maffeistrasse and Kardinal-Faulhaber-Strasse. FRAUENKIRCHE & AROUND The landmark Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Lady; Map pp82-3; %290 0820; Frauenplatz 1; admission free; h7am-7pm Sat-Wed, 7am-8.30pm Thu, 7am-6pm Fri), built 1468–88, is Munich’s spiritual heart and the ‘Mt Everest’ among its churches. No other building in the central city may stand taller than its onion-domed twin towers, which reach a lofty 99m. From April to October, you can enjoy panoramic city views from the south tower (adult/concession €3/1.50; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat). Bombed to bits in WWII, the reconstruc- tion is a soaring passage of light but otherwise fairly spartan. Of note is the epic cenotaph (empty tomb) of Ludwig the Bavarian just FOOLING THE DEVIL Churches come with legends, and the Frauenkirche has a particularly good one. As you enter the foyer, linger for a moment at the hoofed footprint in the floor. When construction was finished, the devil came by to check it out, stopped in this very spot and started cracking up because the builder had apparently forgotten to put in any windows! He stomped his foot in triumph but he didn’t have the last laugh. A few more steps and...oops, plenty of windows after all. Today the trick no longer works perfectly because the high altar that used to conceal the choir window has been removed, but the hoofed outline (which looks more like that of a modern loafer) remains. past the entrance and the bronze plaques of Pope Benedict XVI and his predecessor John Paul II affixed to nearby pillars. Deutsches Jagd- und Fischereimuseum Pose with a bronze boar, admire a rococo hunting sledge or examine prehistoric fish- ing tackle at the old-school Deutsches Jagd- und Fischereimuseum (Map pp82-3; %220 522; www .jagd-fischerei-museum.de, in German; Neuhauser Strasse 2; adult/concession/family €3.50/2.50/7; h9.30am-5pm, to 9pm Thu), spread across three floors of a former Augustinian church. There are plenty of stuffed critters and dioramas alongside trophies, weapons, paintings and porcelain embellished with hunting motifs. Creepy or captivating? Up to you. Michaelskirche It stands quiet and dignified amid the com- mercialism engulfing Kaufingerstrasse, but to fans of Ludwig II the Michaelskirche (Church of St Michael; Map pp82-3; Kaufingerstrasse 52) is the ultimate place of pilgrimage. Its dank crypt (h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pm Sat & Sun; ad- mission €2) is the final resting place of the ‘Mad King’, whose humble tomb is usually drowned in flowers. Completed in 1597, St Michael was the largest Renaissance church north of the Alps and boasts an impressive unsupported barrel-vaulted ceiling. The massive bronze statue between the two entrances shows the Archangel finishing off a dragonlike creature, a classic Counter Reformation–era symbol of Catholicism triumphing over Protestantism. A little further west, the early 18th- century Bürgersaalkirche (Map pp82-3; Neuhauser Strasse 14) contains the tomb of Rupert Mayer, a Jesuit priest and noted Nazi opponent who was beatified in 1987. The modern fountain near this church commemorates the composer Richard Strauss, who was born in Munich in 1864. It’s decorated with scenes from Strauss’ most famous opera Salomé. Neuhauser Strasse culminates in Karlsplatz, punctuated by the medieval Karlstor, one of Munich’s remaining medieval town gates. Maxvorstadt ‘Museums and universities’ pretty much sums up Maxvorstadt, meaning that you’ll likely be spending some time in this delightful dis- trict. The Pinakothek art museums are here and so are the Glyptothek with its precious antiquities, the hallowed Ludwig-Maximilians- Universität and the venerable Kunstakademie (Art Academy). The area has been a hotbed of culture since the early 20th century. The painters Franz Marc and Wassily Kandinsky had their studios here and Thomas Mann used to talk literature with kindred colleagues in smoky coffeehouses. Today students shape the district’s vibe, and café-, bar- and bou- tique-lined streets such as Türkenstrasse and Schellingstrasse invite exploration and soak- ing up the boho spirit. Maxvorstadt was the first city expansion, conceived by Maximilian I around 1805 but not really taking shape until his son, Ludwig I,puthismind–andmoney–toitsome 20 years later. Flashy Ludwigstrasse is just one reminder of the legacy of this king who dreamed of turning Munich into a city of art and culture, an ‘Athens on the Isar’. The grand boulevard links Odeonsplatz with the Siegestor, where Maxvorstadt spills over into Schwabing. The remarkably uniform and well- proportioned row of neoclassical piles is a credit to court architects Klenze and Gärtner. ALTE PINAKOTHEK Munich’s main repository of Old European Masters, the Alte Pinakothek (Map p81; %2380 5216; www.pinakothek.de/alte-pinakothek; Barer Strasse 27, enter from Theresienstrasse; adult/concession/under 18 incl audioguide €5.50/4/free, Sun €1; h10am-8pm Tue, 10am-6pm Wed-Sun) is stuffed with all the major players that decorated canvases between the 14th and 18th centuries. It’s in a neoclassical temple masterminded by Leo von Klenze and is a delicacy even if you can’t tell your Rembrandt from your Rubens. Nearly all the paintings were collected or commissioned by Wittelsbach rulers and mirror their eclectic tastes over the centuries. It fell to Ludwig I to unite the bunch in a single museum The collection is world famous for its ex- ceptional quality and depth, especially when it comes to German masters. The oldest works are altar paintings, of which the Four Church Fathers by Michael Pacher and Lucas Cranach the Elder’s Crucifixion (1503), an emotional rendition of the suffering Jesus, stand out. A key room is the Dürersaal upstairs. Here hangs Albrecht Dürer’s famous Christlike Self-Portrait (1500), showing the gaze of an artist brimming with self-confidence. His final major work, The Four Apostles, depicts John, Peter, Paul and Mark as rather humble MUNICH MUNICH 92 MUNICH •• Sights  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Sights 93 men in keeping with post-Reformation ideas. Compare this to Matthias Grünewald’s Sts Erasmus and Maurice, which shows the saints dressed in rich robes like kings. For a secular theme, inspect Albrecht Altdorfer’s Battle of Alexander the Great (1529), which captures in dizzying detail a 6th- century war pitting Greeks against Persians. There’s a choice bunch of Dutch masters, in- cluding an altarpiece by Rogier van der Weyden called The Adoration of the Magi, plus The Seven Joys of Mary by Hans Memling, Danae by Jan Gossaert and The Land of Cockayne by Pieter Bruegel the Elder. Rubens fans also have reason to rejoice. At 6m in height, his epic Last Judgment is so big that Klenze custom- designed the hall for it. A memorable portrait is Hélène Fourment (1631), a youthful beauty who was the ageing Rubens’ second wife. The Italians are represented by Botticelli, Rafael, Titian and many others, while the French collection includes paintings by Nicolas Poussin, Claude Lorrain and François Boucher. The Spaniards field such heavy hit- ters as El Greco, Murillo and Velázquez. Budget at least two hours for a visit. NEUE PINAKOTHEK Picking up where the Alte Pinakothek leaves off, the Neue Pinakothek (Map p81; %2380 5195; www.pinakothek.de/neue-pinakothek; Barer Strasse 29, enter from Theresienstrasse; adult/concession/under 18 incl audioguide €5.50/4/free, Sun €1; h10am-5pm, to 8pm Wed, closed Tue) harbours a well-respected col- lection of 19th- and early 20-century paint- ings and sculpture, from rococo to Jugendstil (Art Nouveau). Its imposing original struc- ture by Friedrich von Gärtner was destroyed during WWII and not rebuilt; since 1981 works are housed in a modernist structure by Alexander von Branca. All the world-famous household names get coverage here, including crowd-pleasing French impressionists such as Monet, Cézanne and Degas as well as Van Gogh, whose bold pigmented Sunflowers (1888) ra- diates cheer. There are also several works by Gauguin, including Breton Peasant Women (1894); and by Manet, including Breakfast in the Studio (1869). Perhaps the most memorable canvases, though, are by Romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich, who specialised in emotion- ally charged, brooding landscapes such as Riesengebirge Landscape with Rising Mist. Locals painters getting a shot at wall space include Carl Spitzweg and Wilhelm von Kobell of the so-called Dachau School; and Munich society painters such as Wilhelm von Kaulbach, Franz Lenbach and Karl von Piloty. Another focus is on the works by the Deutschrömer (German Romans), a group of neoclassicists centred around Johann Koch, who stuck mainly to Italian landscapes. PINAKOTHEK DER MODERNE Germany’s largest modern art museum, the Pinakothek der Moderne (Map p81; %2380 5360; www.pinakothek.de/pinakothek-der-moderne; Barer Strasse 40, enter from Theresienstrasse; adult/concession/under 18 €8/5/free, Sun €1; h10am-6pm Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun, 10am-8pm Thu) opened in 2002 in an extrava- gant building by Stephan Braunfels that’s a perfect setting for artists that dominated the art world throughout the last century. The spectacular four-storey interior centres on a vast eye-like dome, which spreads soft natu- ral light throughout blanched white galleries. Many walls are curved, gently leading the viewer from one discovery to the next, and right angles are disrupted by diagonals. The museum unites four significant collec- tions under a single roof. The State Gallery of Modern Art has some exemplary modern clas- sics by Picasso, Klee, Magritte, Kandinsky and many lesser-known works that will be new to many visitors. More recent big shots include Georg Baselitz, Andy Warhol, Cy Twombly and the late enfant terrible Joseph Beuys. His signature piece is the large-scale installation The End of the 20th Century (1983), a pile of prone basalt columns scattered throughout a blank chamber. The New Collection in the basement lasers in on applied design from the industrial revolu- tion via Art Nouveau and Bauhaus to today. VW Beetles, Eames chairs and early Apple Macs stand alongside more obscure items, such as AEG’s electric kettles from 1909. The State Graphics Collection boasts a collec- tion of 400,000 pieces of art on paper, in- cluding drawings, prints and engravings by such craftsmen as Leonardo da Vinci and Paul Cézanne. Because of the light-sensitive nature of these works, only a tiny fraction of the col- lection is shown at any given time. Finally, there’s the Architecture Museum, with oodles of drawings, blueprints, photographs and models by such top practitioners as ba- roque architect Balthasar Neumann, Bauhaus maven Le Corbusier and 1920s expressionist Erich Mendelsohn. MUSEUM BRANDHORST Yet another museum dedicated to postmod- ern masters is scheduled to open by this book’s publication in a new building at the corner of Theresienstrasse and Türkenstrasse (Map p81). Andy Warhol and American abstract expressionist Cy Twombly will get plenty of wall space; and there will also be entire rooms exploring the provocative art of Damien Hirst, Robert Gober and Mike Kelley. MUSEUM REICH DER KRISTALLE If diamonds are your best friends, head to the Museum Reich der Kristalle (Museum of the Crystal Realm; Map p81; %2180 4312; Theresienstrasse 41, enter from Barer Strasse; adult/child €1.50/1; h1-5pm Tue- Sun), with its Fort Knox–worthy collection of gemstones and crystals, including a giant Russian emerald and meteorite fragments from Kansas. KÖNIGSPLATZ Nothing less than the Acropolis in Athens provided the inspiration for Leo von Klenze’s imposing Königsplatz (Map p81), com- missioned by Ludwig I and anchored by a Doric-columned Propyläen gateway and two temple-like museums. The Nazis added a few buildings of their own and abused the square with their mass parades. Only the founda- tions of these structures remain at the east end of the square, rendered unrecognisable by foliage. Peaceful and green today, the square comes alive in summer during concerts and open-air cinema. GLYPTOTHEK If you’re a fan of classical art or simply enjoy the sight of naked guys without noses (or other pertinent body parts), make a beeline to the Glyptothek (Map p81; %286 100; www.antike-am -koenigsplatz.mwn.de, in German; Königsplatz 3; adult/conces- sion €3.50/2.50, Sun €1, combined with Antikensammlungen €5.50/3.50; h10am-5pm Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun, 10am-8pm Thu). One of Munich’s oldest museums, it’s a feast of art and sculpture from ancient Greece and Rome amassed by Ludwig I between 1806 and 1830, and opens a surprisingly naughty window onto the ancient world. An undisputed highlight is the marble Barberini Faun (220 BC), a sleeping satyr rendered in meticulous anatomical detail and striking a pose usually assumed by Playgirl centrefolds. Rooms X to XII contain superb busts, including one of a youthful Alexander the Great and several of Emperor Augustus. Also of note is the tomb relief of Mnesarete, a Greek courtesan. Don’t miss the sculptures from the Aphaia Temple in Aegina with exten- sive supportive displays to lend context. The inner courtyard has a calm and pleas- ant café where, in summer, classical theatre takes place under the stars. ANTIKENSAMMLUNGEN Complementing the Glyptothek, the Antiken- sammlungen (Antiquities Collection; Map p81; %5998 8830; www.antike-am-koenigsplatz.mwn.de, in German; Königsplatz 1; adult/under 18/concession €3.50/free/2.50, Sun €1, combined with Glyptothek €5.50/3.50; h10am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 10am-8pm Wed) is an engaging showcase of ex- quisite Greek, Roman and Etruscan antiquities. The collection of Greek vases, each artistically decorated with gods and heroes, wars and weddings, is particularly outstanding. Other galleries present gold and silver jewellery and ornaments; figurines made from terracotta and more precious bronze; and super-fragile drink- ing vessels made from glass. STÄDTISCHE GALERIE IM LENBACHHAUS Leading late 19th-century portraitist Franz von Lenbach used his considerable fortune to build a fabulous Tuscan-style home, which his widow later sold to the city for a pittance but with the proviso that it be used as a museum. To get things going, she also threw in a bunch of hubbie’s works. Today’s Städtische Galerie im Lenbachhaus (Municipal Gallery; Map p81; %2333 2000; www.lenbachhaus.de; Luisenstrasse 33; adult/concession/family incl Kunstbau €6/3/9, more for special exhibits; h10am-6pm BEST MUSEUM FOR... Curious kids – KinderReich at the Deutsches Museum (p107) Car fetishists – BMW Welt & Museum (p98) Dino divas – Paläontologisches Museum (p94) Art-ficionados – Alte Pinakothek (p91) History groupies – Bayerisches Nationalmuseum (p101) Tech heads – Deutsches Museum (p101) MUNICH MUNICH 94 MUNICH •• Sights  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Sights 95 Tue-Sun) is swarmed by fans of the expressionist Blauer Reiter (Blue Rider) artist group founded by Wassily Kandinsky and Franz Marc in 1911. Soon joined by August Macke, Gabriele Münter, Alexej von Jawlensky and others, they rebelled against traditional academy art and instead pursued ground-breaking visions and themes. Ironically, Lenbach’s portraits seem comparatively staid and retro. Contemporary art is another focal point. The acquisition of Joseph Beuys’ installation Show Your Wound nearly caused a riot in the conservative city council, but the collec- tion took off anyway. All the big names are here: Gerhard Richter, Sigmar Polke, Anselm Kiefer, Andy Warhol, Dan Flavin, Richard Serra and Jenny Holzer among them. Works are also shown in the nearby Kunstbau, a 120m-long underground tunnel above the U-Bahn station Königsplatz. Both spaces are scheduled to close in 2009 for a top-to-bottom renovation directed by British star architect Lord Norman Foster. A reopening date has not been set. PALÄONTOLOGISCHES MUSEUM The curatorial concept of the Paläontologisches Museum (Palaeontological Museum; Map p81; %2180 6630; www.palmuc.de; Richard-Wagner-Strasse 10; admission free; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 2pm Fri) could use a little dusting up but otherwise this archaeological trove of prehistoric skulls and bones is any- thing but stuffy. The most famous resident is a fossilised archaeopteryx, the creature that forms the evolutionary link between reptile and bird. Dino fans can check out the wicked horns on a triceratops skull or the delicate bone structure of a plateosaurus. Admission is free, so why not pop in for your Jurassic fix? SIEMENSFORUM MÜNCHEN If you need a break from all that art, amble over to the SiemensForum (Map p81; %6363 2660; www .siemens.de/siemensforum; Oskar-von-Miller-Ring 20; admis- sion free; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri). It’s a fun, hands-on kind of place with five floors of promotional exhibits on electronics and microelectronics, ranging from the first Morse telegraph to the PC, chewing through 140 years of company history in the process. The changing special exhibits are usually more interesting. SIEGESTOR Munich’s massive Siegestor (Victory Gate; Map p81) was modelled on Constantine’s arch in Rome and looks like a miniature version of Paris’ Arc de Triomphe. Built to honour the Bavarian army for kicking out Napoleon, it’s crowned by a triumphant Bavaria piloting a lion-drawn chariot. Severely damaged in WWII, the arch was turned into a peace me- morial. The inscription on the upper section reads: Dem Sieg geweiht, vom Kriege zerstört, zum Frieden mahnend (Dedicated to victory, destroyed by war, calling for peace). LUDWIG-MAXIMILIANS-UNIVERSITÄT Bavaria’s oldest university, the Ludwig- Maximilians-Universität (LMU; Map p81; %218 00; www.uni-muenchen.de; Geschwister-Scholl-Platz 1) started out as political football for its rulers. Founded in Ingolstadt in 1472, it moved to Landshut in 1800 before being lassoed to Munich in 1826 by newly crowned King Ludwig I. It has produced more than a dozen Nobel Prize winners, including Wilhelm Röntgen in 1901 and Theodor Hiersch in 2005. The main building, by Gärtner of course, has cathedral-like dimensions and is accented with sculpture and other art work. A flight of stairs leads to a light court with a mem- orial to Die Weisse Rose, the Nazi resistance group founded by Hans and Sophie Scholl. The boxed text, opposite, has more details, but to get the full story visit the exhibit called Denk Stätte (Map p81; %2180 3053; Geschwister-Scholl- Platz 1; admission free; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) behind the memorial. LUDWIGSKIRCHE The twin-towered Ludwigskirche (Church of St Ludwig; Map p81; %288 334; Ludwigstrasse 20; h8am- 8pm), built by Friedrich von Gärtner between 1829 and 1844, is a sombre affair with a major showpiece: the Last Judgment fresco by the Nazarene painter Peter Cornelius in the choir. It’s one of the largest in the world and an immodest – and thoroughly unsuccessful – attempt to outdo Michelangelo’s version. Even King Ludwig I was none too impressed, which prompted Cornelius to beat a hasty retreat to Berlin. BAYERISCHE STAATSBIBILIOTHEK A Gutenberg Bible, the original Carmina Burana (p147) and 1000-year-old prayer books are part of the amazing archive of the Bayerische Staatsbibliothek (Bavarian State Library; Map p81; %286 382 322; www.bsb-muenchen.de; Ludwigstrasse 16; hmain reading room 8am-midnight). THE WHITE ROSE Open resistance to the Nazis was rare during the Third Reich, where arbitrary terror meted out by the SA and Gestapo served as powerful disincentives. In 1942, however, a group of medical students, led by Hans and Sophie Scholl, formed Die Weisse Rose (The White Rose), which aimed to encourage Germans to wake up and smell the crematory. Members acted cautiously at first, creeping through the streets of Munich and smearing slogans such as ‘Freedom!’ or ‘Down With Hitler!’ on walls. Growing bolder, they printed and distributed anti-Nazi leaflets, reporting on the mass extermination of the Jews and other Nazi atrocities. One read: ‘We shall not be silent – we are your guilty conscience. The White Rose will not leave you in peace.’ In February 1943 Hans and Sophie were caught distributing leaflets at the university. Together with their best friend, Christian Probst, the Scholls were arrested and charged with treason. After a summary trial, all three were found guilty and beheaded the same afternoon. Their extraor- dinary courage inspired the award-winning film Sophie Scholl – Die Letzten Tage (The Last Days of Sophie Scholl; 2005). Founded in 1558 by Duke Albrecht V, it’s in another Gärtner building and brims with 9.1 million volumes, nearly 400,000 maps and subscriptions to over 42,000 periodicals. Yup, that would make it one of the largest in the German-speaking world. Check it out, if only for the free art exhibits. KARLSPLATZ Karlsplatz and the medieval Karlstor (Map pp82–3) form the western gateway to the Altstadt and the pedestrianised shopping pre- cinct along Neuhauser Strasse and Kaufinger Strasse. The busy square was laid out in 1791 as an ego project of the highly unpopular Elector Karl Theodor. When he named it for himself, locals were even less impressed and insisted on referring to the square as ‘Stachus’, possibly in memory of a pub that had been dis- placed by its construction. The huge fountain in the centre is a favoured meeting spot, but Karlsplatz is really at its most magic in winter when a Rockefeller Center–style outdoor ice- skating rink brings out young and old. Just west of Karlsplatz, the 1890s Justizpalast (Palace of Justice; Map pp82-3; Prielmayerstrasse 7; admission free; h9am-4pm Dec–mid-Apr & May–mid-Oct) looms like a pompous presence with neobaroque and neo-Renaissance flourishes. ‘Justice’ was not exactly meted out here on 22 February 1943 when Hans Scholl, Sophie Scholl and Christoph Probst were condemned to death by the notorious judge Roland Freisler. The verdict was read at 1pm. Four hours later they were dead. There’s a permanent exhibit about the sham trial in the very courtroom in room 253. Also see the boxed text, above. A second courthouse, the Neuer Justizpalast (New Palace of Justice) was built just a few years later and is more of a neo-Gothic confection. Behind the courthouses, the Alter Botanischer Garten (Old Botanical Garden; Map pp82–3) is a nice place to cool your heels after an Altstadt shopping spree. Created under King Maximilian in 1814, the tender specimens were moved after WWII to a clean-air spot behind Schloss Nymphenburg. All remaining ‘foreign’ plants were removed under the Nazis in 1935, who turned it into a pleasant, if rather generic, park. The ferocious Neptunbrunnen (Neptune Fountain; Map pp82–3), on the south side, dates back to the same year. The neoclassical entrance gate is called the Kleine Propyläen and is a leftover from the original gardens. Schwabing Take the U-Bahn to Münchner Freiheit, grab a table in a street-side café on Leopoldstrasse and watch the world on parade. What do you see? Bronzed lotharios in deep-buttoned white shirts. Faux blondes in tiny tees. Teens in tight premium jeans. Chic mamas walking designer dogs. Yup, no matter what you’ve heard or read, Schwabing’s reputation as a boho stronghold of artists and students is a thing of the past. Fact is, Schwabing is thor- oughly gentrified, has some of the highest rents in town, and is populated by lawyers, editors, professors and trust-fund babies in beemers. Some live in beautifully restored Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings along such streets as Ainmillerstrasse and Gedonstrasse. Through it all runs urban Leopoldstrasse with MUNICH MUNICH 96 MUNICH •• Sights  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Sights 97 UP ON THE ROOF Don’t have time to make it to the Alps for climbing around lofty heights? No sweat. Just head to the Olympic Stadium for a walk on the roof (adult/student & child €35/25; h2.30pm daily Apr-Oct). Yup, the roof; that famously contorted steel and plexiglass confection is ready for its close-up. Just like on the mountains, you’ll be roped and hooked up to a steel cable as you clamber around under the eagle-eyed supervision of an experienced guide showering you with fascinating details about the stadium’s architecture and construction. Unusual perspectives are guaranteed, but the vertigo-prone might want to take a pass on this one. Minimum age is 10 and expeditions last two hours. Wear rubber-soled shoes. True daredevils might also be tempted by the abseiling tour (adult/student & child €45/35; h4pm Fri, Sat & Sun Apr-Oct), which has you scaling up the stadium north side to a height of 50m, then heading straight back down in a free rappel. For details and reservations on either tour, call %3067 2414. its wide footpaths, poplar trees and cafés, and bars aplenty. Best of all, the English Garden is only a quick stroll away. The student quarter, meanwhile, is actually south of Schwabing, in Maxvorstadt. But don’t worry; even locals get the two confused. LEOPOLDSTRASSE Like all grand boulevards, Leopoldstrasse is a catwalk for the masses, a wide and shady promenade in full view of passing traffic and perfect for showing off the goods – a new car, a new woman, a new outfit – especially on warm summer evenings. The task is made easier by the rows of street-side café tables packed with aspirants and arrivés. The tallest eye-catcher along here, though, is Jonathan Borofsky’s Walking Man (Map p81), a white 17m-high alien captured in mid-stride. The Akademie der Bildenden Künste (Academy of Fine Arts; Map p81; %385 20; Akademiestrasse 2-4) is housed in a three-storey neo-Renaissance building. Founded in 1808 by Maximilian I, it advanced to become one of Europe’s leading arts schools in the second half of the 19th century and still has a fine reputation today. Famous students included Max Slevogt, Franz von Lenbach and Wilhelm Leibl; and, in the early 20th century, Lovis Corinth, Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Franz Marc and others who went on to become modern-art pioneers. ENGLISCHER GARTEN The sprawling Englischer Garten (English Garden; Map p81) is among Europe’s biggest city parks – bigger than even London’s Hyde Park and New York’s Central Park and a fa- vourite playground for locals and visitors alike. It stretches north from Prinzregentenstrasse for about 5km and was conceived in 1789 – coincidentally (or perhaps not) the year of the French Revolution – as a ‘garden for the peo- ple’ by Elector Karl Theodor. The design job went to Benjamin Thompson, an American- born scientist working as an advisor to the Bavarian government and at one time as its war minister. Paths piddle around in dark stands of ma- ture oak and maple before emerging into sun- lit meadows of lush grass. Locals are mindful of its popularity and tolerate the close quar- ters of bicyclists, walkers and joggers. Street musicians dodge balls kicked by frolicking children, and students sprawl on the grass to chat about missed lectures. Sooner or later you’ll find your way to the Kleinhesseloher See, a lovely lake at the centre of the park. Work up a little sweat while tak- ing your sweetie on a spin around three little islands, then quaff a well-earned foamy one at the Seehaus beer garden (p119). When the sun’s out, many Münchners love to get naked and work on their tan, even dur- ing their lunch break when they stack their coats, ties and dresses neatly beside them. It’s all perfectly legal and socially acceptable, so leave your modesty at home. Several follies lend the park a playful charm. The Chinesischer Turm (Map p81), now at the heart of Munich’s oldest beer garden (p119), was built during an oriental craze in the 18th century. Further south, at the top of a gentle hill, is the Monopteros (1838; Map p81), a small Greek temple whose ledges are often knee-to-knee with dangling legs be- longing to people admiring the view of the Munich skyline. Another hint of Asia awaits further south at the Japanisches Teehaus (Japanese Teahouse; Map p81; %224 319; htea ceremony 3pm, 4pm, 5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct) right by an idyllic duck pond. The best time to come is for an authentic tea ceremony celebrated by a Japanese tea master. Don’t even think about spending the night in the park! Muggers, drug fiends and pros- elytisers often keep the cops busy till dawn. ALT-SCHWABING The tangle of quiet streets east of the Münchner Freiheit U-Bahn station offers a glimpse of pre-yuppification Schwabing. The heart of Alt- Schwabing (Old Schwabing) – Wedekindplatz – still preserves a boho touch thanks to nearby small shops, gritty bars and alternative theatres. While living here from 1899 to 1901, Thomas Mann penned his famous novel Buddenbrooks. Beatniks and hippies invaded in the ’60s, fuel- ling a minor spin on the 1968 revolution. South of the square is the baroque Schloss Suresnes (Map p81; Werneckstrasse 1), a petite pal- ace built in 1718 for one of Elector Max’s government officials. Paul Klee had a studio here from 1919 to 1922, and it now houses a Catholic academy. Nearby is another gor- geous residence, the Seidlvilla (Map p81; %333 139; www.seidlvilla.de, in German; Nikolaiplatz 1B; admission free; hnoon-7pm), now a community centre and art gallery. Ring the buzzer: if a show’s on someone should let you in. The church with the bold clock face on the north side of the Münchner Freiheit U-Bahn station is the Erlöserkirche (Map p81; %3837 7140; Germaniastrasse 4). Built at the turn of the 20th century, it’s filled with Art Nouveau flour- ishes and a popular concert venue thanks to superior acoustics. Olympiapark & Around The huge area in the northern city where soldiers once paraded and the world’s first Zeppelin landed in 1909 found a new destiny in the 1960s as the Olympiapark (Olympic Park; Map p80; www.olympiapark-muenchen.de). Built for the 1972 Olympic Summer Games, it hasn’t lost any of its magic and draws people year-round with con- certs, festivals, fireworks and sporting events. The swimming hall (p106) and the ice-skating rink (p105) are open to the public as well. A good first stop is the Info-Pavilion (%3067 2414; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat), which has information, maps, tour tickets and a neat model that will have you marvel at the vast- ness of the complex. Staff also rent MP3 players for a self-guided Audio-Tour (€7, plus €50 refundable deposit). Tickets to the 90-minute guided Adventure Tour (adult/concession €8/5.50) that covers the entire Olympiapark on foot and by toy train are available, too. Olympiapark has two world-famous eye-catchers: the 290m Olympiaturm and the warped Olympiastadion (Olympic Stadium; Map p80; %3067 2707; enter via ‘Kasse Nord’; adult/child/family €2/1/5; h8.30am-6pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct, 9am-4.30pm mid-Oct–mid-Apr, closed on events days). Germans have a soft spot for the latter because it was on this hallowed grass in 1974 that the national soccer team – led by the ‘Kaiser’ Franz Beckenbauer – won the FIFA World Cup. Older people on the guided one-hour Stadium-Tour (adult/concession €6/4; h11am Apr-Oct) often wax nostalgic when setting foot in the old locker rooms or seeing the VIP lounges. When the sky is clear, you’ll quite literally have Munich at your feet against the breath- taking backdrop of the Alps from the top of the Olympiaturm (Map p80; %3067 2750; adult OLYMPIAN SOUNDS Munich summers simply would not be the same without free concerts in the Olympiapark. All through August, the Theatron MusikSommer Festival (www.theatron.de) brings international bands from hip-hop to gospel, pop to punk to the amphitheatre next to the Olympic Lake. Kids won’t get bored at the Lilalu Umsonst und Draussen Festival (www.lilalu.org), which features circus acts, music from mostly local and regional bands, and readings for about two weeks late in the month. Can’t get (or afford) a concert ticket to the Rolling Stones, U2 or Robbie Williams at the Olympic Stadium? No sweat, don’t fret – you can hear them for free (!) simply by climbing up the Olympiaberg. At 564m high, it’s a so-called Trümmerberg, meaning a pile of war debris that’s been greened over. It happens to be right across from the open-air Olympic Stadium, with the sound travelling neatly across the little lake. How handy is that? Bring a blanket and beverage and join the local throngs for a free concert with, and under, the stars. MUNICH MUNICH 98 MUNICH •• Sights  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Sights 99 MUNICH’S OLYMPIC TRAGEDY The 1972 Summer Olympics presented Munich with a historic chance. It was the first time since 1936 that the Olympic Games would be held in the country. The motto was the ‘Happy Games’, the emblem a blue solar ‘Bright Sun’. The city built a shiny Olympic Park, including buildings with striking plexiglass tents that, at the time, were revolutionary in design. It was the opportunity to present a new, democratic Germany full of pride and optimism. In the final week of the Olympics, members of the Palestinian terrorist group ‘Black September’ killed two Israeli athletes and took nine others hostage at the Olympic Village, demanding the release of political prisoners and escape aircraft. During a failed rescue attempt by German security forces at Fürstenfeldbruck, a military base west of Munich, all the hostages and most of the terror- ists were killed. The competition was suspended briefly before Avery Brundage, the International Olympic Committee president, famously declared ‘the Games must go on’. The bloody incident cast a pall over the entire Olympics and sporting events in Germany for years to follow. The events are chronicled in an Oscar-winning documentary One Day in September (2000), by Kevin McDonald, and also inspired Steven Spielberg’s searing Munich (2005). The killings prompted German security to rethink its methods and create the country’s elite counter-terrorist unit, GSG 9. /concession €4/2.50; h9am-midnight, last trip 11.30pm). Your lift ticket also buys access to the small if quirky Rock Museum (Map p80; hsame hours), also up on top. Ozzie Osbourne’s signed guitar, a poem penned by Jim Morrison and Britney Spears’ glitter jeans jostle for space with letters, photos and concert tickets, all the result of three decades of collecting by a pair of rock fans. The Olympiahalle, meanwhile, is getting a complete overhaul, which is expected to last through 2009. SEA LIFE MÜNCHEN Meet Nemo the clownfish and learn that sea- horse males get pregnant at Sea Life München (Map p80; %450 000; www.sealifeeurope.com; Willi-Daume-Platz 1; adult/child/concession €13.50/8.75/11.50; h10am-6pm Mon- Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun), a walk-through aquarium that takes you on a virtual journey along the Isar and Danube Rivers to the Black Sea and the Mediterranean. Along the way you’ll meet aquatic denizens living in various habitats, which have been re-created in 30 tanks. The biggest of them teems with sharks and rays, which dart around you as you walk through a 10m-long underwater tunnel. Kids can test their know- ledge by answering quiz questions throughout. All labelling is in English and German. See the website for discount coupons. BMW-WELT, MUSEUM & PLANT Next to the Olympiapark, where Lerchenauer Strasse meets Petuelring, a glass and steel dou- ble-cone ‘tornado’ spirals skyward. It’s arrested only by a roof the size of an aircraft carrier yet imbued with the lightness of a cloud. Open since October 2007, the BMW Welt (Map p80; www .bmw-welt.de; admission free, tours adult/child/family €6/3/12; h9am-8pm) is an architectural showstopper, a cathedral to cars, a place of pilgrimage for those who worship at the altar of the auto. The lucky ones get to drive away with their dream car, for BMW Welt is first and foremost a car pick-up centre. Everyone else can admire the latest mod- els, straddle a powerful motorbike, browse the ‘lifestyle shop’ or take a guided 80-minute tour. On the Junior Campus, kids learn about mobil- ity, fancy themselves car engineers and even get to design their own vehicle in workshops. Classical and jazz concerts, many of them free, take place year-round. Sure, it’s all a brilliant PR ploy, but let’s not get too cynical... The BMW Welt is linked via a bridge to the BMW Headquarters (Map p80), another stunning building of four gleaming cylinders, and to the silver-bowl-shaped BMW Museum (Map p80; www .bmw-museum.de), due to emerge from a complete revamp by this book’s publication. Channel your inner Michael Schumacher in an avant- garde exhibition space merging art, history and design. Check the website for details. With some planning, you can also tour the belly of the beast, the adjacent BMW Plant (Map p80; %01802-118 822; www.bmw-werk-muenchen .de; tours adult/child/family €6/3/12). Reservations are required and can be made up to six months in advance. Tours (also in English) last 21⁄2 hours, and children under four are not allowed. Neuhausen & Nymphenburg One of Munich’s oldest districts, Neuhausen has an air of relaxed confidence, Europe’s largest beer garden (the Hirschgarten; p119) and pretty good nightlife and dining. It also has a long and cosy association with the royal family since becoming the servants’ quarter for the newly built Schloss Nymphenburg in the 17th century. A couple of hundred years later, Neuhausen was revamped as a residen- tial pad for the well heeled, with the villas along the Nymphenburg Canal resembling second-string royal residences. The canal, by the way, often freezes over in winter, luring skaters and curlers onto the ice. The commercial heart of Neuhausen – bus- tling Rotkreuzplatz (nicknamed ‘Stachus of Neuhausen’) – may be an aesthetically chal- lenged product of the 1960s, but at least it’s home to Munich’s best ice-cream parlour, the Eiscafé Sarcletti (p117). The square is also the gateway to low-key and tourist-free bars and restaurants in radiating side streets. On Thursday a farmers market brings out the locals from 10am to 7pm. En route to Schloss Nymphenburg, swing by the Herz-Jesu-Kirche (Map p80; %130 6750; Lachnerstrasse 8; admission free; h8am-7pm except Tue 8am-noon), a stunning modernist church crafted from glass, concrete, steel and wood that shimmers blue like a magic crystal, especially at night. SCHLOSS NYMPHENBURG Adelaide of Savoy certainly married well. After she gave birth to her son Max Emanuel, her husband, Elector Ferdinand Maria, was so overjoyed that he rewarded her with her own palace, Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace; Map p80; %179 080; combination ticket except Museum Mensch und Natur adult/concession €10/8 Apr–mid-Oct, €8/6 mid-Oct –Mar; h9am-6pm Apr–mid-Oct, 10am-4pm mid-Oct–Mar). Later rulers dabbled with the place until it grew into the lavish edifice you see today. Schloss Nymphenburg is about 5km north- west of the Altstadt and easily reached by tram 17 or 41. It’s backed by a lavish park sprinkled with outbuildings. The combination ticket entitles you to one-time admission to any of the buildings and is good for multiple days. Admission to all the buildings is free to any- one under 18. Note that the Badenburg, the Pagodenburg and the Magdalenenklause are closed from mid-October until March. Schloss The primary palace (adult/concession €5/4) consists of a central villa and two wings. The self- guided tour begins upstairs in the Steinerner Saal (Stone Hall), a two-storey dining hall with fantastic stucco and frescoes by Johann Baptist Zimmermann. The Gobelinzimmer, with stun- ning detailed tapestries, is almost as good. The tour also takes in the Wappenzimmer (Heraldic Room) and the Chinesisches Lackkabinett (Chinese Lacquer Room), but do take time out to see the cute chapel in the western wing. The most famous room, though, is the Schönheitengalerie (Gallery of Beauties), in the southern wing, a portrait gallery of 38 ‘beauties’ from all walks of life and parts of the world hand selected by Ludwig I. In the south wing are the coaches and riding gear of the royal family, suitably displayed in the Marstallmuseum (Map p80; adult/concession €4/3). It’s worth checking out if only to see Ludwig II’s fairy tale–like rococo sleigh, ingeniously fitted with oil lamps for his crazed noctur- nal outings. Upstairs is the world’s largest collection of old porcelain made by the famous Nymphenburger Manufaktur. Also known as the Sammlung Bäuml, it presents the entire product palette from the company’s founding in 1747 until 1930. Museum Mensch und Natur Kids will have plenty of ‘ooh and aah’ mo- ments in the Museum Mensch und Natur (Museum of Humankind & Nature; Map p80; %179 5890; www .musmn.de; adult/concession/under 18 €2.50/1.50/free, Sun €1; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun), in the palace north wing. Anything but old school, it puts a premium on interactive displays, models, audiovisual pres- entations and attractive animal dioramas. Gardens & Outbuildings The sprawling park behind Schloss Nymph- enburg is a favourite spot with Münchners and visitors for strolling, jogging or whiling away a lazy afternoon. It’s laid out in grand English style and accented with water fea- tures, including a large lake, a cascade and a canal popular for feeding swans, and ice- skating and ice-curling when it freezes over in winter. The park is at its most magical without the masses, ie early in the morning and an hour before closing. But even in the daytime, you can usually commune in solitude with water- lilies and singing frogs at the Kugelweiher pond in the far northern corner. The park’s chief folly – and quite frilly to boot – the Amalienburg (Map p80; adult MUNICH MUNICH 100 MUNICH •• Sights  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Sights 101 /concession €2/1) – is a small hunting lodge dripping with crystal and gilt decoration; don’t miss the amazing Spiegelsaal (Mirror Hall). The two-storey Pagodenburg (Map p80; adult/concession €2/1) was built in the early 18th century as a Chinese teahouse and is swathed in ceramic tiles depicting landscapes, figures and floral ornamentation. The Badenburg (Map p80; adult/concession €2/1) is a sauna and bathing house that still has its original heating sys- tem. Finally, the Magdalenenklause (Map p80; adult/concession €2/1) was built as a mock herm- itage in faux ‘ruined’ style. A combination ticket to all four park buildings is €4/3 per adult/concession. Neuer Botanischer Garten Munich’s vivacious Neuer Botanischer Garten (New Botanical Garden; Map p80; %1786 1350; www.botmuc.de; Menzinger Strasse 65; adult/concession/under 12 €3/1/free; h9am-7pm May-Aug, 9am-6pm Apr & Sep, 9am-5pm Feb- Mar & Oct, 9am-4.30pm Nov-Jan) segues smoothly from the north side of the palace park and ranks among the most important in Europe. About a century old, it boasts some 14,000 plant species from around the world. Highlights include the Victorian-style Palmenhaus (palm pavilion) with its famous collection of tropical and subtropical plants. Other greenhouses shelter cacti, orchids, ferns, carnivorous plants and other leafy treasures. Ludwigsvorstadt & Westend Once a neglected working-class backwater perfumed by the hoppy aroma wafting over from its breweries, the Westend is gradually finding its groove and evolving into one of Munich’s most vibrant and intriguing neigh- bourhoods. There are no major sights, which is just fine because its charms reveal them- selves in subtler, often unexpected, ways: on leafy Gollierplatz, for instance, or in hip cafés and pubs. Or in the growing number of artists’ studios and indie boutiques, and the Turkish corner store with its artfully piled produce. For contrast, head west of the Theresien- wiese Oktoberfest grounds, where Ludwigs- vorstadt basks in an air of bourgeois smugness, its leafy streets lined with grand old mansions looking as impeccable now as they did a cen- tury ago. However, the district’s face changes drastically the further north, and closer to the Hauptbahnhof, you get: strip clubs, sex shops and cheesy import stores dominate. THERESIENWIESE The Theresienwiese (Theresa Meadow; Map pp82–3), better known as ‘Wiesn’, just southwest of the Altstadt is the site of the Oktoberfest. At the western end of the meadow is the Ruhmeshalle (Hall of Fame) guarding solemn statues of Bavarian leaders, as well as the statue of Bavaria (%290 671; adult/ under 18/concession €3/free/2; h9am-6pm Apr–mid-Oct, to 8pm during Oktoberfest), an 18m-high Amazon in the Statue of Liberty tradition, oak wreath in hand and lion at her feet. This iron lady has a cunning design that makes her seem solid, but actually you can climb via the knee joint up to the head for a great view of the Oktoberfest. At other times, views are not particularly inspiring. CIRCUS KRONE No matter how you feel about circuses, the venerable Circus Krone (Map p81; %01805-247 28; www.circus-krone.de; Zirkus-Krone-Strasse 1-6; hDec- Mar) is not like any other. A Munich fixture for decades, its tent is vast and the shows are dazzling. After three months of performances, the circus goes on tour, leaving the city in a grand procession with elephants and cam- els driven along Arnulfstrasse towards the Hauptbahnhof. The hall is left to host rock concerts and other events the rest of the year. Gärtnerplatzviertel & Glockenbachviertel Southeast of the Altstadt, the Gärtner- platzviertel and Glockenbachviertel pack more personality into a fairly compact frame than most other Munich neighbourhoods. The trendiest bars, cafés and clubs are here; pretty streets teem with local designer bou- tiques and lifestyle stores; and creatives of all stripes peck away on their iMacs in stylish offices. After dark, this is a hipster haven, not as student-y as Maxvorstadt, not as snooty as Schwabing, not as multicultural as Haidhausen. The epicentre of lesbigay life is here as well, with rainbow flags fly- ing especially proudly along Müllerstrasse and Hans-Sachs-Strasse. Further south is the up-and-coming Schlachthofviertel, an area where the slaughterhouses used to be lo- cated. The official name for all three quarters is Isarvorstadt. Everyone gravitates towards the circular Gärtnerplatz, lorded over by the splendid Staatstheater am Gärtnerplatz (p123). Founded by citizens in 1865, the theatre was taken over by Ludwig I after the owners went bankrupt. The Glockenbachviertel (Bell Brook Quarter) derives its name from a foundry once located on a stream nearby. Many of the city’s carvers and woodworkers lived here, giving rise to street names such as Baumstrasse (Tree St) and Holzstrasse (Wood St). A lovely spot for a walk is along the babbling Glockenbach creek, which runs south along Pestalozzistrasse. It’s the sole survivor of a net- work of brooks that once crisscrossed Munich; the rest have been rerouted or paved over. This one parallels the Alter Südlicher Friedhof (Map pp82–3), a cemetery that’s a favourite ‘Six- Feet-Under’ destination for the posh crowd. Famous residents include the painter Carl Spitzweg, the physicist Joseph von Fraunhofer and the architect Friedrich von Gärtner. Look for a plaque with names and grave locations near the entrance. DEUTSCHES MUSEUM Even if memories of school science make you groan, a visit to Deutsches Museum (German Museum; Map p85; %217 91; www.deutsches-museum .de; Museumsinsel 1; adult/child 6-15/concession/family €8.50/3/7/17; h9am-5pm) should convince you that, gee, science can be fun. Spending a few hours in this temple of technology is an eye-opening journey of discovery that takes you from the future back to the Stone Age. There are loads of interactive displays (in- cluding glass blowing and paper making), live demonstrations and experiments, model coal and salt mines, and engaging sections on cave paintings, geodesy, microelectronics and astronomy. In fact, it can be pretty over- whelming after a while, so it’s best to prioritise what you want to see, especially if you’re here with attention-span-challenged kids. In fact, little ones probably have the most fun in the KinderReich (Children’s Kingdom; see p107). The museum’s collection is so huge that some sections have been moved to separate locations. Vehicles are now in the Verkehrszentrum (p103), while aircraft are at the Flugwerft Schleissheim (p133). Combination tickets to all three museums cost €15 and may be used on separate days. Lehel Just east of the Altstadt proper, Lehel (lay- hl) has the second-highest concentration of museums after the art nexus in Maxvorstadt. It’s the oldest Munich suburb, having been absorbed into the city in 1724, and a charis- matic warren of quiet streets lined with late- 19th-century buildings. BAYERISCHES NATIONALMUSEUM A highlight of Munich’s museum scene, the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum (Bavarian National Museum; Map p81; %211 2401; www.bayerisches-national museum.de; Prinzregentenstrasse 3; adult/concession/under 18 €5/4/free, Sun €1; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm Thu) is chock-full of items illustrating the art, folklore and cultural history of southern Germany between the Middle Ages and the early 20th century. The ground floor yields new treas- ures and surprises in every room, from suits of armour to oil paintings, town models to altars and emotionally charged sculpture by Tilman Riemenschneider. Upstairs there are specialised collections of historic board games, musical instruments, porcelain and a ridiculously ostentatious rococo silver table setting. By contrast, the basement shows the ways of life of the simple peasant folk through a series of period rooms. HAUS DER KUNST It was built in 1937 to showcase Nazi art, but now the Haus der Kunst (House of Art; Map p81; %2112 7113; www.hausderkunst.de; Prinzregentenstrasse 1; admission varies; h10am-8pm Fri-Wed, 10am-10pm Thu) presents works by exactly the artists whom the Nazis rejected and deemed degenerate (see boxed text, p102). Another focus is on contemporary art and design supplemented by hip events, including an after-work party that includes a tour, nibbles snacks and drinks. STAATLICHES MUSEUM FÜR VÖLKERKUNDE A bonanza of art and objects from Africa, India, the Americas, the Middle East and Polynesia, the Staatliches Museum für Völkerkunde (State Museum of Ethnology; Map p85; %210 136 100; www.voelker kundemuseum-muenchen.de; Maximilianstrasse 42; adult/under 18/concession €3.50/free/2.50, Sun €1; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) has one of the most prestigious and complete ethnological collections anywhere. Sculpture from West and Central Africa is par- ticularly impressive, as are Peruvian ceramics, Indian jewellery, mummy parts, and artefacts from the days of Captain Cook. ARCHÄOLOGISCHE STAATSSAMMLUNG Turns out Bavaria has been a popular place of residence for 120,000 years. Prehistoric Stone MUNICH MUNICH 102 MUNICH •• Sights  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Sights 103 Age people came first, then the Romans, the Celts and finally various Germanic tribes. The Archäologische Staatssammlung (Archaeological Collection; Map p81; %211 2402; www.archaeologie -bayern.de; Lerchenfeldstrasse 2; adult/concession €3/2, Sun €1; h9.30-5pm Tue-Sun) opens up a window on these long-gone civilisations with cult objects, floor mosaics, jewellery, medical equipment and scores of other items. This could be pretty dry stuff, but curators do their best to keep things as dynamic as possible with special themed exhibits and activities for children. Some sec- tions may be under renovation. SCHACK-GALERIE Count Adolf Friedrich von Schack (1815–94) was a great fan of 19th-century Romantic painters such as Böcklin, Feuerbach and Moritz von Schwind. His collection is housed in the former Prussian embassy, now the Schack-Galerie (Map p85; %2380 5224; www.pinakothek .de/schack-galerie; Prinzregentenstrasse 9; adult/concession €3/2.50; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon). A tour of this in- timate space is like an escape into the idealised fantasy worlds created by these artists. PRATERINSEL In the middle of the Isar, below Maximilians- brücke, Praterinsel (Prater Island) is a popular bathing spot in summer and also home to the Aktionsforum Praterinsel (Map p85; %2123 830; www .praterinsel.org; Praterinsel 3-4). It’s an art and cultural centre in a former schnapps distillery with artists studios, exhibits, open-air perform- ances and parties. In a deceptively beautiful building on the island’s southern tip, the Alpines Museum (Map p85; %211 2240; www.alpines-museum.de, in German; Praterinsel 5; adult/concession/child €3/2/1; h1-6pm Tue- Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun) could deliver a fascinating exhibit about the Alps but is actually a pretty dry and predictable presentation. Paintings, photographs, scientific instruments and graphics illustrate the history of the moun- tain range, its settlement, expeditions and the popularity of Alpinism. Sadly it avoids the debate over the mountains’ touristic exploita- tion and environmental problems resulting from global warming. ST-ANNA-PLATZ The Asamkirche may be more sumptuous, but the Klosterkirche St Anna im Lehel (Map p85; %211 260; St-Anna-Platz 21; h6am-7pm) is actually a collaboration of the top dogs of the rococo. Johann Michael Fischer designed the building, and Cosmas Damian Asam painted the stun- ning ceiling fresco and altar. So there. Pompous by comparison, the neo- Romanesque Pfarrkirche St Anna im Lehel (Map p85; %212 1820; St-Anna-Platz 5; h8am-6pm) across the square arrived on the scene in the 1890s after the Klosterkirche had become too small. Conceived by Gabriel von Seidl, it’s worth a spin for its huge altar and impressive nave paintings. Haidhausen Haidhausen is hip, eclectic and leagues away from its 19th-century working-class roots. Major gentrification since the late 1970s has made the district desirable for artsy profes- sionals, professional artists and all urban types, although there are still plenty of upwardly hopeful immigrants, artists and students and ageing lefties left. For visitors, the main draw ‘DEGENERATE’ ART Expressionism, surrealism, Dadaism...modern art of all stripes was anathema to Hitler and his honchos, who even devised their own ‘final solution’ for the offensive art work. Internationally renowned artists like Klee, Beckmann and Schlemmer were forced into exile, their work was removed from museums and confiscated from private collections. The Nazis then sold them off to rake in foreign currency; about 4000 of them were publicly burned in Berlin. In July 1937, though, Goebbels gathered about 650 paintings, sculptures and prints in the crammed and poorly lit Galerie am Hofgarten, calling it an exhibit of Entartete Kunst (Degenerate Art). Organised into such themes as Mockery of God and Insult to German Womanhood, it was intended to portray modern art as debauched and decadent. The propaganda show opened on 19 July 1937, just one day after the ‘Great German Art Exhibition’ of Nazi-approved works pre- miered in the nearby, custom-built Haus der Deutschen Kunst. Ironically, the Nazi art was largely reviled by the public, while over two million people came to see the Entartete Kunst, more than any other modern art show in history. is a congenial mix of sceney bars and bound- ary-pushing restaurants, the Gasteig Culture Centre, fun streets like Metzstrasse and gor- geously restored late-19th-century buildings in the French quarter around Pariser Platz. Unfortunately, there’s also quite a bit of drug- gie action going on around Orleansplatz and the party zone near Ostbahnhof (Kunstpark and Optimolwerke; see p121). DEUTSCHES MUSEUM – VERKEHRSZENTRUM An ode to mobility, the Verkehrszentrum (Transportation Centre; Map p85, %500 806 500; www .deutsches-museum.de/verkehrszentrum; Theresienhöhe 14a; adult/concession/child under 6/family €5/3/free/10; h9am- 5pm) is all about the ingenious ways humans have devised to transport things and each other. From the earliest automobiles to famous race cars and the high-speed ICE trains, the collection is a virtual trip through transport history. The exhibit is spread over three his- toric trade fair halls near Theresienwiese, each with its own theme – Public Transportation, Travel and Mobility & Technology – and is a fun place even if you can’t tell your piston from your carburettor. There’s even a special kiddie corner where little ones can build their own fantasy vehicles. KULTURZENTRUM GASTEIG & AROUND Haidhausen is home to one of Munich’s fin- est cultural venues, the Kulturzentrum Gasteig (Gasteig Culture Centre; Map p85; %480 980; www.gasteig .de; Rosenheimer Strasse 5), whose postmodern, boxy, glass-and-brick design caused quite a controversy back a generation ago. The name is derived from the Bavarian term ‘gaacher Steig’, meaning ‘steep trail’. The complex harbours four concert halls, including the 2400-seat Philharmonie, which is the perma- nent home of the Münchner Philharmoniker (p123) and also hosts renowned international orchestras. The Carl-Orff-Saal and the Kleiner Konzertsaal (Small Concert Hall) are more in- timate, as is the Black Box, which is primarily used for experimental theatre and dance. Free 45-minute concerts by students from the on- site Richard Strauss Conservatory often take place in the Kleiner Konzertsaal at 1.15pm, 6.15pm and 10.30pm. And for good measure, there’s a huge municipal library with internet access as well. Right on the Isar, west of the Gasteig, is the Müller’sches Volksbad (p106), a richly detailed Art Nouveau indoor swimming pool. Nearby, the Muffathalle culture centre was converted from an old power plant. The prim church ensemble north of here is the St Nikolai & Lorettokapelle (Map p85). St Nikolai was first built in 1315 in Gothic style only to go for baroque three centuries later. The design of the little Loreto Chapel emu- lates the Gnadenkapelle in Altötting (p164). Outside, the covered walkway protects some pretty nifty ‘Stations of the Cross’ made of Nymphenburg porcelain. MUSEUM VILLA STUCK Franz von Stuck was a leading light in Munich’s art scene around the turn of the 20th century and his residence is one of the finest Jugendstil homes you’ll ever see. Stuck himself came up with the intricate design, which forges tapestries, patterned floors, coffered ceilings and other elements into a harmonious work of art. His furniture even earned a gold medal at the Paris World Fair in 1900. Today his pad is open as the Museum Villa Stuck (Map p85; %455 5510; www.villastuck.de in German; Prinzregentenstrasse 60; adult/concession/family €9/4.50/13.50; h11am-6pm Wed-Sun) and presents changing exhibits, usually starring Stuck’s contemporaries but also later 20th-century avant-gardists such as Nam June Paik and Cindy Sherman. The most famous Stuck painting is Die Sünde (Sin; 1893), infused with an unabashed eroticism that caused quite a stir back in the old days. Naturally. MAXIMILIANEUM Maximilianstrasse culminates in the glorious Maximilianeum (Map p85; %412 60; Max-Planck-Strasse 1), completed in 1874, a decade after Max II’s sudden death. It’s an imposing structure, drawn like a theatre curtain across a hilltop, bedecked with mosaics, paintings and other artistic objects. There’s a free exhibit about the Bavarian parliament, which moved here in 1949. It’s framed by an undulating park called the Maximiliananlagen, which is a haven for cy- clists in summer and tobogganists in winter. Bogenhausen Bogenhausen is not shy about flaunting its wealth. Elegant villas sprang up here from the 1870s onwards and the area is peppered with gilded Art Nouveau buildings. Just take a wander along Möhlstrasse (Map p85), a chic avenue branching northeast from the MUNICH MUNICH 104 MUNICH •• Sights  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Activities 105 Europa-Platz near the Friedensengel, which is lined with mansions for the super-rich, foreign consulates and law offices. East of here (via Siebertstrasse and Ismaninger Strasse), Holbeinstrasse is a treasure chest of listed Art Nouveau houses, with the one at No 7 (Map p85) being an especially fine specimen. Prinzregentenstrasse, the main artery, divides Bogenhausen from Haidhausen to the south. FRIEDENSENGEL Just east of the Isar River, the Friedensengel (Angel of Peace; Map p85) statue stands guard from its perch atop a 23m-high column. It commemorates the 1871 Treaty of Versailles, which ended the Franco-Prussian War, and the base contains some shimmering golden frescoes. On New Year’s Eve the steps around the monument are party central. PRINZREGENTENTHEATER One of Bogenhausen’s main landmarks is the Prinzregententheater (Map p85; %2185 2899; Prinzregentenplatz 12). Its dramatic mix of Art Nouveau and neoclassical styles was conceived under Prince-Regent Luitpold as a festival house for Richard Wagner operas. After WWII it became the temporary home of the Bavarian State Opera for a couple of decades, but then was left to crumble for a quarter-century to the point where it almost had a date with the wrecking ball. A theatre director named August Everding eventually rode to the rescue and raised the funds for its renovation. In 1996 it reopened to the strains of Wagner’s Tristan und Isolde. Today the beautiful venue is used for drama, concerts and other events, and is also the seat of the Bavarian Theatre Academy. Outer Districts ALLIANZ ARENA Sporting and architecture fans alike should take a side trip to the northern Munich sub- urb of Fröttmaning to see the ultraslick €340 million Allianz Arena (off Map pp78-9; %01805-555 101; www.allianz-arena.com; Werner-Heisenberg-Allee 25; adult/child 7-12 years €8/4; hdaily tours in German 10.15am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 4.30pm, in English 1pm), Munich’s dra- matic new football stadium. Nicknamed the ‘life belt’ and ‘rubber boat’, it has walls made of inflatable cushions that can be individually lit to match the team colours of the host team (red for 1 FC Bayern, blue for TSV 1860 and white for the national soccer team). The 75- minute stadium tours are hugely popular (no tours on game days); tickets are sold in the shop inside the Markenwelt on the 3rd floor. To get there take U6 to Fröttmaning. SCHLOSS BLUTENBURG Idyllically encircled by the little Würm River, Schloss Blutenburg (Map pp78-9; %891 2110; cnr Pippinger Strasse & Verdistrasse) creates the illu- sion of a moated castle. It was here where Duke Albrecht III retreated with his com- moner wife Agnes Bernauer before his dad had her bumped off (see p203 for details). The trio of three tall green grass blades rising from the water are leftovers from the 2005 Bundesgartenschau (Federal Garden Show). The palace is now state owned and houses the Internationale Jugendbibliothek (International Youth Library; %891 2110; www.ijb.de; h10am-4pm Mon- Fri), a unique research and lending library with about half a million children’s books in 130 languages. It has reading rooms, runs exhibits and activities, and also has a small museum (h2-5pm Wed-Sun) dedicated to Michael Ende, author of The Neverending Story. The palace church (admission free; h9am-5pm Apr- Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar) is a rare Gothic jewel that wasn’t drenched in baroque frilliness in the 17th century. The three altars by Jan Polack are outstanding examples of late-Gothic panel painting. Schloss Blutenburg is about 11km north- west of the Altstadt. Take the S-Bahn to Pasing, then bus 73, 75 or 76 to ‘Schloss Blutenburg’. TIERPARK HELLABRUNN Some 6km south of the city centre, Tierpark Hellabrunn (Hellabrunn Zoo; Map pp78-9; %625 080; www .tierpark-hellabrunn.de; Tierparkstrasse 30; adult/concession/child €9/6.50/4.50; h8am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-Mar) has 5000 furry, feathered and finned friends that rarely fail to enthral the little ones. It was one of the first to be set up like a ‘geo-zoo’ with spa- cious natural habitats dividing animals by con- tinent. A baby giant panda (born in July 2007) is a current squeezable of the preteen set, as is the large petting zoo where tots get to feed deer and goats. Other crowd-pleasers include the ‘Villa Dracula’ (inhabited by bats, what else?), the penguins and polar bears in the ‘Polarium’, and the ‘Orang-utan paradise’. To get here take the U-Bahn to Thalkirchen or bus 52. BAVARIA FILMSTADT Movie magic made in Munich is the draw of the Bavaria Filmstadt (off Map pp78-9; %6499 2304; Bavariafilmplatz 7; www.bavaria-filmtour.de; adult/child/con- cession/family €11/8/10/34, with stunt show & 4D cinema €20/17/19/64; h9am-4pm Mar-Oct, 10am-3pm Nov-Feb), a theme park built around Bavaria Film, one of Germany’s oldest studios founded in 1919. The top-grossing German film of all time, Das Boot, was among the classics shot here but today’s German audience is more interested in sets of the family soap Marienhof. Films and TV are still produced today, and who knows, you might see a star during the guided 90- minute tours. The 1pm tour is in English. The crash-and-burn Stunt Show (show only €8.50) is a runaway hit as well, while kids are particularly fond of the wacky 4D cin- ema (tickets €4.50), with seats that lurch and other special effects from silly to spooky. The Filmstadt is in the southern suburb of Geiselgasteig, about 14km from the Altstadt. Take the S2 Silberhornstrasse, then tram 25 to Bavariafilmplatz. Admission is free on your birthday (ID required). ACTIVITIES Boating A lovely spot to take your sweetheart for a spin is on the Kleinhesseloher See in the English Garden. Rowing or pedal boats cost around €7 per half-hour for up to four people. Boats may also be hired at the Olympiapark. Cycling Munich is an excellent place for cycling, particularly along the Isar River. The holy grail for mountain- and downhill bikers is the Bombenkrater (off Map pp78-9; www.bomben krater.de, in German), a unique terrain of hillocks, dips, roots, ridges, holes and ramps created by WWII bombs. It’s in a woody area on the southern city edge, right on the Isar River. Take the S7 to Höllriegelskreuth. Hiking For information about hiking and climbing as well as gear rental, swing by the Munich chap- ter of the Deutscher Alpenverein (German Alpine Club; Map pp82-3; %551 7000; Bayerstrasse 21; h8am-6pm Mon, 10am-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 10am-7pm Thu), near the Hauptbahnhof. For buying gear and equip- ment, it’s hard to beat Sport Scheck (Map pp82-3; %216 60; Sendlinger Strasse 6), which has multiple floors of everything from camping equipment to expedition wear, plus lots of books. Sport Schuster (Map pp82-3; %237 070; Rosenstrasse 1-5) is just as good. Skating From May to August, thousands of skaters take to Munich streets every Monday during Blade Night (www.muenchenerbladenight.com; per per- son €2) an organised roll through town that starts and ends with a big street party on Wredestrasse near Circus Krone (Map p81). The refreshment stands open at 7pm and thousands of bladers hit the streets at 9pm for a leisurely 10km to 20km tour around various neighbourhoods. Check the website for details. The Olympiapark and the English Garden are both popular blader destinations as well. Ice-skaters can glide alongside future medal- lists in the Olympia-Eissportzentrum (Map p80; %306 70; Spiridon-Louis-Ring 21; adult/child per session €3.50/2.50; hsessions 10am-noon & 1.30-4pm daily, 8-10.30pm Wed- Sun), hit the frozen canals in Nymphenburg (free) or twirl around at the Münchner Eiszauber A TOTALLY AWESOME WAVE, DUDE Munich is famous for beer, sausages and surfing. Yep, you read that right. Just go to the southern tip of the English Garden at Prinzregentenstrasse and you’ll see scores of people leaning over a bridge to cheer on wetsuit-clad daredevils as they ‘hang 10’ on an artificially created wave in the Eisbach. It’s only a single wave, but it’s a damn fine one. In fact, the surfers are such an attraction, the tourist office even includes them in its brochures. But if park director Thomas Köster gets his way, the fun will soon be a thing of the past. You see, surfing or even swimming in the Eisbach is actually verboten. And for good reason. It looks pretty harmless, but the little river is quite a raging torrent with dangerous currents and undertows. Numerous people – though none of the surfers – have drowned in the chilly waters, including a 27-year-old Australian traveller on a Munich holiday whose body has never been found. Signs warning about its dangers are widely ignored, usually with the tacit approval of park wardens and the police. Köster wants this to change, and he also wants to get rid of the wave. Surfers are up in arms and have even started a petition (www.rettet-die-eisbachwelle.de) to ensure their playground’s survival. MUNICH MUNICH 106 MUNICH •• Walking Tour (Map pp82-3; www.muenchnereiszauber.de; per person €4; hNov-Jan) ice rink on Karlsplatz. Swimming Bathing in the Isar River isn’t advisable be- cause of strong and unpredictable currents (especially in the English Garden), though many locals do. Better to head out of town to one of the many nearby swimming lakes, including the popular Feringasee (S8 to Unterföhring, then follow signs), where the party never stops on hot summer days; the pretty Feldmochinger See (Map pp78–9), which is framed by gentle mounds and has a special area for wheelchair-bound bathers (S1 to Feldmoching); and the Unterföhringer See (Map pp78–9), which has warm water and is easily reached by bicycle via the Isarradweg or by the S8 to Unterföhring. The best public swimming pool options, both indoors, are the Olympia Schwimmhalle (Map p80; %01801 796 223; Olympiapark, Coubertinplatz 1; adult/ concession/family €3.60/2.60/9.20; h7am-11pm), where Mark Spitz famously won seven gold medals in 1972; and the spectacular Müller’sches Volksbad (Map p85; %01801 796 223; Rosenheimer Strasse 1, Haidhausen; adult/concession swimming €3.40/2.70, sauna €13.20; h7.30am-11pm), where you can swim in Art Nouveau splendour, then sweat it out in the Roman-Irish bath. Yoga & Spas Bikram Yoga München (Map p80; %1301 1218; Leonrodstrasse 6, Neuhausen; session €16) At the hot- test yoga temple in town, you’ll do the down- ward dog in a studio heated to 38°C (bring a bath towel). Blue Spa (Map pp82-3; %212 0992; Promenadeplatz 2-6, Altstadt; per day €28) Get your stressed-out self over to the rooftop of the ultraposh Bayerischer Hof hotel to luxuriate in the deep-blue de- signer pool and steam room or have the jet lag kinks worked out with a massage. Just Pure (Map p81; %3835 6999; Siegesstrasse 13, Schwabing) A session at German beauty queen Gabriela Just’s posh but pleasant day spa will leave your skin quenched, radiant and ready for your close-up. Products and treatments are calibrated to the phases of the moon. WALKING TOUR This circuit covers the highlights within Munich’s historic centre and the English Garden. Kick-off is at Marienplatz, the heart and soul of Munich. The glockenspiel springs lonelyplanet.com into action at the Neues Rathaus (1; p76), the impressive Gothic town hall with six court- yards and multiple towers. The steeple of the St Peterskirche (2; p77) affords a great vista of the old town, including the Altes Rathaus (3; p77), now home to a toy museum. Turn left as you leave St Peter’s and walk down Petersplatz to the Viktualienmarkt (4; p77), a tantalising array of colours and aromas from around the globe, with a beer garden to boot. Exiting the market to the south takes you to Sebastiansplatz with the resurrected Schrannenhalle (5; p77) on your left. Turn into Sebastiansplatz to reach the Münchner Stadtmuseum (6; p87), home not only to historic city exhibits but also to a prestig- ious film museum and other collections. The big cube looming opposite on St-Jakobs-Platz is Munich’s spanking new synagogue, which is flanked by the Jüdisches Museum (7; p87) and a Jewish community centre. From here follow Unterer Anger, turn right on Klosterhofstrasse, which continues as Schmidstrasse and reaches Sendlinger Strasse. Turn right, then take a quick peek in- side the pocket-sized Asamkirche (8; p87), the city’s most ornate baroque church. Backtrack a few steps on Sendlinger Strasse, turn left on Hackenstrasse, right on Hotterstrasse, past the tiny and quirky Hundskugel (9; p115) rest- aurant, left on Altheimer Eck and immedi- ately right on Färbergraben. This takes you to Kaufinger Strasse, the Altstadt’s pedestrian- ised main shopping strip. The shiny boar opp- osite invites you to visit the Deutsches Jagd- und Fischereimuseum (10; p91). Rub the boar for good luck but skip the museum and continue on Augustinerstrasse to the distinctively twin- onion-domed Frauenkirche (11; p90) with more great views from the top. Pick one of the little lanes behind the church to reach Weinstrasse, turn left and continue on Theatinerstrasse, taking a few minutes to marvel at the post- modern Fünf Höfe (12; p90) shopping arcade or checking out the latest exhibit at the Kunsthalle der Hypo-Kulturstiftung gallery. Backtrack a few steps on Theatinerstrasse, then turn left on tiny Perusastrasse, which de- livers you to Max-Joseph-Platz and the grand Residenz (13; p88), home of the Wittelsbach rulers for four centuries. A tour of the place will give you an eyeful of the family’s lifestyle and penchant for collecting great art and other fancy treasure. Continue north on Residenzstrasse to reach Odeonsplatz, site of the Nazis’ first lonelyplanet.com WALKING TOUR Theresienstr Königsplatz MUNICH •• Munich for Children 107 MUNICH MUNICH Schelli ng r Leopoldstr Barer Str e k c M ü r B - h a s x - J o en rk Tü a e n p r r n t i n d e m se s n t r e r t n s den a K r n ö e l f im h o Ludwigstr t H S r V r- t s mr Kaulbachstr t d T l Karolinenplatz Karlsplatz Altheimer Eck 9 8 Sendlinger Tor WALK FACTS 17 a I r n i s - f t r n t e r Innere-Wiener-Str t s e ie t e G tr str M n Arcisstr s l S e r i e W ay Theresienstr t n Karlstr rr r e Amalienstr e Ottostr L o R i S e n sb p us t Alter Botanischer Garten Theatinerstr 12 14 11 1 Marienplatz 2 64 St- 5 Jakobs- Platz Unterer Anger 13 Max- Joseph Platz Maximiliananlagen Europa platz a h s s z t la ra r e t i or s - n S - a M st a r i g s s r a e f arstall f r Adalbert-Str u e i S M c h Mp g ü t z a s rr e on-de Prinzregentenstr 10 7 START Burgstr n n a T gs r M t Jägerstr a xi Liebigstr - t su li a r mi a anb e N t e b u r x S u P n s g t r S rück e i t r n i n f K t -Rin g g e r r r t e s r mer r t e m s t s t i k t r t n i h r e e ns E W c M o i m r Preysingstr r s t e h t H m s e d r ö a n r r i R r n S a m Ma r o e r e d h T h str g h T n a i ie l t d n r a u h es S e R il r t s e S u r d F Schönfeldstr o e S d t m f s g n r c t t s m u a olfg N W Start Marienplatz Finish Chinesischer Turm, English Garden Distance 6km Duration Minimum 2 hours, with museums all day or more lunge at power. Here looms the Feldherrnhalle (14; p90), a hulking shrine to war heroes. The bombastic, mustard-yellow Theatinerkirche (15; p90) contains the Wittelsbachs’ family crypt. The tour heads into green territory from here, starting with the neoclassical Hofgarten (16; p89). Cross it diagonally and go through the underpass, then turn right on Prinzregentenstrasse and proceed past the Haus der Kunst (17; p101), a gallery and one- time forum for Nazi art propaganda. Just beyond, from the little bridge, don’t miss the surfers (18; p105) riding the artificially created wave of the gushing Eisbach creek. Past the bridge, turn left into the English Garden and follow the creek to a vast meadow popular with Frisbee experts and nude sunbathers. A little hill with a classical folly, the Monopteros (19; p96), completes the leisurely scene. At the end of the tour you can plop down in the beer garden alongside the curious, multitiered Chinesischer Turm (20; p96), where an oompah band belts out traditional tunes. MUNICH FOR CHILDREN (Tiny) hands down, Munich is a great city for children with plenty of activities to please even the most attention-span challenged rug rats. There are plenty of parks for romping around, swimming pools and lakes for cooling off and beer gardens with children’s playgrounds for making new friends. Many museums have special kid-oriented programs, but the highly interactive KinderReich (Children’s Kingdom; h9am- 4.30pm) at the Deutsches Museum (p101) spe- cifically lures the single-digit set. Here tots ages three to eight can climb all over a fire engine, build things with giant Lego, construct a waterway with canals and locks, or bang on the drum all day in a – thankfully – sound- proof instrument room. Kids love animals, of course, making the zoo Tierpark Hellabrunn (p104) a sure bet. Maxvorstadt Englischer Garten 18 Lehel St Anna Platz Lehel Odeonsplatz 15 16 Hofgarten 3 Maximilianeum (Bavarian State Parliament) Max-Weber-Platz Haidhausen Marienplatz Viktualienmarkt Universitát Bavarian State Library 19 Isartor 0 0 END 20 500 m 0.3 miles n s r t r 108 MUNICH •• Munich for Children lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Tours 109 OKTOBERFEST ‘Mass’ Hysteria Blame it all on the ‘Mass’; that towering mug holding a full litre of golden nectar that sets you back about €8 – and right back on your heels. Oktoberfest is indeed the world’s largest drink- a-thon, where normally prim and sober citizens from every country in the world lurch around like drunken rats. ‘Tradition’ may be everything at the Oktoberfest, but ‘convention’ gets thrown right out the window. The sky is a classic Bavarian blue when we fight for a spot to see the fantastic Brewer’s Parade. Horses the size of small elephants pull flower-festooned wagons piled high with beer barrels around town and to the Wiesn. It’s all eerily disciplined, even quiet, until – at the stroke of noon – the Munich mayor opens the first keg with a mallet, great pomp and ceremony. As the beer flows forth, the crowd cheers and the mayor exclaims: ‘Ozapft ist’s!’ (It’s tapped!). Let the ‘games’ begin! Other ‘traditions’ are less pleasant. Scores of revellers have raised their abilities at projectile vomiting to an art form and creatively, if disgustingly, decorate the streets around the Wiesn. And though portable potties are ubiquitous, the time-honoured performance of ‘wildes Bieseln’ (wild pissing) is still the preferred form of relief (at least among men). Then there are the mating rituals. Dark patches of shadow just off the midway become cluttered with writhing bodies, while in the tents you’ll encounter pairs of blottoed faces doing their level best to mutually suck themselves out of existence. The faint of heart should cling to well-lit areas. After a few days of this Dionysian assault on the senses – and our livers – verbal skills, memory and other mental functions quickly become impaired. Kind of like arriving at the ‘Death Zone’ on Everest. We somehow start developing fond feelings for Betty Ford. Oh, the horror! The horror... History The world’s biggest party had its origins in a simple horse race. In 1810 Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig – later King Ludwig I – married Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen, and following the wedding a horse race was held at the city gates. The six-day celebration was such a rip- roaring success that it became an annual event, was extended and moved forward to start in September so that visitors would enjoy warmer weather. Faced with all those fine suds, the horse race became little more than a sideshow and was finally dropped in 1938. Parades Starting at 10.45am on the first day of Oktoberfest, the Brewer’s Parade travels through the city centre from Sonnenstrasse to the fairgrounds via Schwanthalerstrasse. By noon it’s all over. The next day, the even more colourful Costume Procession is led by a young girl on horseback dressed as the Münchner Kindl, the child monk from the city’s coat of arms. She’s followed by an endless Petting baby goats, feeding pelicans, watching falcons and hawks ‘perform’, or even riding a camel should make for some unforgettable memories. For a ‘fishy’ immersion head to the new Sea Life München (p98) in the Olympic Park. Dino fans gravitate to Paläontologisches Museum (p94), while budding scientists will find plenty to marvel at in the Museum Mensch und Natur (p99) in Schloss Nymphenburg. The Spielzeugmuseum (toy museum; p77) is of the ‘look but don’t touch’ variety, but tots might still get a kick out of seeing what toys grandma used to play with. Bookworms will be in heaven in the International Youth Library (p104) at Schloss Blutenburg. The adorable singing and dancing marionettes performing at the Münchner Marionettentheater (Map pp82-3; %265 712; www .muenchner-marionettentheater.de; Blumenstrasse 32, Altstadt; tickets €6-15; h3pm Wed-Sun, 8pm Sat) have enthralled generations of wee ones. At the Münchner Theater für Kinder (Map p81; %593 858; Dachauer Strasse 46, Neuhausen; tickets €7-9) budding thespians can enjoy fairy tales and children’s classics à la Max & Moritz and Pinocchio. In winter, a show at the venerable Circus Krone (p100) is a magical experience. For hands-on fun head to the Dschungelpalast (Map pp78-9; %7248 8441; www.dschungelpalast.de, in German; Hansastrasse 41, Westend), which organises stream of marching folklore clubs, oompah bands, riflemen clubs, and other groups from Bavarian villages and beyond in a two-hour procession starting at 10am at the Max II Monument. Nostalgic Favourites On the midway, amid the hi-tech roar, a few nostalgic favourites have survived. Among these are the magic shows at Schicht’l Tent, where beheadings are a speciality. Generations have gasped at this bloody sleight of hand, which is no mean feat. Even master illusionist David Copperfield has paid his respects by losing his head. Oktoberfest also has Germany’s last remaining flea circus – a fixture since the 19th century – where trained pests provide the oomph for miniature chariots that outweigh them a thousandfold. Top 10 Tips, Facts & Figures Oktoberfest runs from mid-September to early October at the Theresienwiese, a 15-minute walk southwest of the Hauptbahnhof. More than 6.2 million people guzzled 6.7 million litres of beer during Oktoberfest 2007. Oktoberfest employs about 12,000 people and has its own police force, lost and found office, childcare centre, fire brigade, baggage checkroom, post office and first-aid station. The 14 tents are open between 10am and 11.30pm (9am on Sunday), with last call at 10.30pm. Only Käfers Wiesnschenke and the Wein- und Sektzelt are licensed until 1am. Leave no later than 10pm to avoid unruly masses staggering to the stations. Beer tents are elbow-to-elbow all day on Saturday and Sunday, but for lighter traffic try a weekday afternoon. Until Friday of the first week the evenings aren’t swamped either. An Oktoberfest brew is big but not cheap: a 1L Mass (tankard) costs around €8, payable with special tokens sold by the tents. Half a roast chicken costs about the same. You may bring snacks with you to the outdoor terraces of the beer tents, but not inside. Many beer tents and food stalls are certified as ecofriendly and serve only regional quality meats, sausages, sweets, waffles, toasted almonds and other delicacies. Married women tie their dirndl apron on the right, others on the left. Women who’ve been harassed can seek assistance from the Aktion Sichere Wiesn (%5022 2366; www.sicherewiesn .de) right on the Oktoberfest grounds. Chances of scoring a room in town if arriving without a booking during Oktoberfest are next to nil, and even the crummiest ones command sky-high prices. You might have better luck in Augsburg, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bad Tölz or another nearby town. Tenters could try Wiesn Camp (www.munich-oktoberfest.com in German). low-cost arts and crafts workshops and a Sunday family brunch. At Jogoli’s Fantastic Kinderworld (Map p85; %9972 0920; www.jogolis.de; Friedenstrasse 22b, Haidhausen; 2hr /31⁄2hr/5hr/all day €8/13/20/32; h2-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am- 7pm Sat & Sun), a supervised indoor/outdoor playground, kids up to age 10 can get as creative, messy and interactive as they wish. Another toy-filled refuge is Münchner Kindl (Map pp82-3; %2423 1600; Burgstrasse 6, Altstadt; per hr €4.50; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat), which welcomes kids aged 18 months to 10 years old. If you happen to be in Neuhausen, near Schloss Nymphenburg, swing by Brauseschwein (Map p80; %1395 8112; Frundsbergstrasse 52), a wacky toy shop selling everything from penny candy to joke articles and wooden trains. German readers can find lots more tips and useful information at www.pomki.de and www.spiellandschaft.de. TOURS New Munich Free Tour (www.newmunich.com; tours free; h10.45am & 11.45am) These English-language walking tours tick off all of Munich’s central landmarks and historical milestones (kings to Nazis) in three hours. Guides are well- informed, sharp-witted and fun, and they do work only for tips, so give what you can. Tours depart from Marienplatz (Map pp82–3). New MUNICH MUNICH 110 MUNICH •• Festivals & Events lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels MUNICH •• Sleeping 111 Munich’s (in)famous Pub Crawl (€12; h8.30pm Tue-Sun) makes stops in five bars and clubs, includes free vodka shots and meets at the corner of Münzstrasse and Orlandostrasse. The Beer Tour (€16; h2.30pm) takes a more, ahem, academic approach, but includes a free litre of beer and entry to the Pub Crawl... Radius Tours (Map pp82-3; %5502 9374; www .radiusmunich.com, Hauptbahnhof, opposite track 32) Get the nitty gritty on city sights, history and archi- tecture on these entertaining and informative English-language tours. Options include the two-hour Munich Highlights Walk (adult/student €10/9; h10am daily Apr–mid-Oct, 10am Mon, Thu, Sat mid-Oct–Mar); the fascinating 21⁄2-hour Hitler & The Third Reich Tour (adult/student €10/9; h3pm Apr–mid-Oct, 11.30am Tue, Fri & Sun mid-Oct–Mar); and the three-hour Prost! Beer & Food tour (adult/student €22/20; h6pm selected days). The latter is an intro- duction to Bavarian drinking culture but not a pub crawl. Tours leave from Marienplatz. Hop-On Hop-Off Tour (Map pp82-3; %5490 7560; www .msr-muc.de; Schützenstrasse 9; adult/child €13/7; hevery 20min) It’s your basic predictably cheesy sight- seeing bus tour but not a bad way for first timers to get oriented. The circuit starts outside the Karstadt department store at the Hauptbahnhof and then loops around the Pinakothek museums, the Residenz, Marienplatz and Karlsplatz in one hour, although you’re free to get on and off as often as you like. An ex- tended route taking in Schloss Nymphenburg and the Olympic Park costs €18/9 for one day or €23/11 for two days. Mike’s Bike Tours (Map pp82-3; %2554 3988, 0172- 852 0660; www.mikesbiketours.com; 4hr/all-day tour €24/39; hmid-Mar–Oct) This outfit runs guided bike tours of the city from the Altes Rathaus on Marienplatz. The standard tour covers about 6.4km in four hours (with a 45-minute beer garden break); the extended tour goes for seven hours and covers 16km. Munich Walk Tours (%2423 1767; www.munich walktours.de) In addition to running an almost identical roster of tours (see website for times and prices) this outfit also rents bicycles (€15 per 24 hours) and offers internet access at Thomas-Wimmer-Ring 1 (Map pp82–3; €1 per 35 minutes). FESTIVALS & EVENTS Beer to opera, film to Christmas, Munich keeps a year-round calendar of fun goings-on. We’ve picked through the pile for our faves, but www.muenchen-tourist.de has the full run-down. Check individual websites for line- ups and ticket information. For Oktoberfest details, see p108. January–March Fasching (Carnival; www.munich-tourist.de) Pre-Lent celebration with concerts, fancy-dress balls and costume parades starting 7 January and ending on Ash Wednesday. Starkbierzeit (Stout Season) Salvator, Optimator, Unimator, Maximator and Triumphator are not the names of gladiators but potent doppelbock brews poured only from 19 March to early April. Monks allegedly invented them to ease hunger pangs during Lent. The tapping of the first keg on 19 March at the Paulaner am Nockherberg (Map pp78-9; %459 9130; Hochstrasse 77) is even broadcast on TV. April–June Frühlingsfest (Spring Festival; www.muenchner-volks feste.de, in German; Theresienwiese) This miniature Oktoberfest kicks off the outdoor festival season with three weeks of beer tents and midway attractions starting around 20 April. Highlight: the giant flea market on the first Saturday. Maidult (www.auerdult.de, in German; Mariahilfplatz) The first of three traditional ‘dult’ fairs held for nine days with crafts, carousels, drinking, toasted almonds and roast chicken. Local colour at its most authentic. Starts on the Saturday preceding 1 May. Stustaculum (www.stustaculum.de, in German) Giant open-air festival in Europe’s largest student quarter, the Studentenstadt Freimann in northern Schwabing brings four days of theatre, music and general merriment, usually in late May. Take U6 to Studentenstadt. Filmfest München (Munich Film Festival; www.film fest-muenchen.de) Not as glamorous as Cannes or Venice, this flick festival presents intriguing and often high-calibre fare by newbies and masters from around the world in the last week of June. Tollwood Festival (www.tollwood.de, in German; Olympiapark Süd) Major world-culture festival with con- certs, theatre, circus, readings and other fun events held from late June to mid-July. Also in November. July–September Christopher Street Day (www.csd-munich.de, in German) Gay festival and parade culminating in a big street party on Marienplatz. Usually held on the second weekend in July. Jakobidult See Maidult. The second ‘dult’ starts on the Saturday following 25 July. Opernfestspiele (Opera Festival; www.muenchner -opern-festspiele.de) The Bavarian State Opera brings in top-notch talent from around the world for this month- long festival concluding on 31 July with Wagner’s Meister- singer von Nürnberg. Tanzwerkstatt Europa (www.jointadventures.net) Performances and workshops for modern dance, drama and readings held over 10 days in early August. October–December Oktoberfest (www.oktoberfest.de) Legendary beer- swilling party running from mid-September to the first Sunday in October. See p108 for the low-down. Kirchweihdult See Maidult, opposite. Opens on the third Saturday in October. Munich Marathon (www.muenchenmarathon.de, in German) More than 10,000 runners from around the world take to the streets in mid-October, finishing after nearly 42km at the Olympic Stadium. Christkindlmarkt (www.christkindlmarkt.de, in Ger- man) Traditional Christmas market on Marienplatz and a visual stunner. SLEEPING Munich’s excellent public transport system puts you within easy reach of everything. If you prefer being steps from the trophy sights, find a place in the Altstadt, although you’ll pay a premium for the privilege. Choices are greater and rates more reasonable in Ludwigsvorstadt near the Hauptbahnhof and the Oktoberfest grounds. Party people will enjoy Schwabing, Maxvorstadt and the Gärtnerplatzviertel–Glockenbachviertel area. Lodging options are thinner on the ground in slower-paced residential neighbourhoods such as Haidhausen and Lehel, but are often the most charming and authentic. Room rates skyrocket during Oktoberfest and other major events and trade shows. Book well ahead to avoid disappointment. The tour- ist office operates a free room reservation service (%2339 6500; www.muenchen.de/hotels; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat). Altstadt BUDGET Hotel Alcron (Map pp82-3; %228 3511; Ledererstrasse 13; www.hotel-alcron.de, in German; s €60-70, d €80-95, tr €90- 105; ni) Within stumbling distance of the Hofbräuhaus, this quaint hotel has a dizzying spiral staircase leading up to traditionally fur- nished rooms that don’t spoil you with space. Beds, though, are comfortable enough to sleep off any excesses. MIDRANGE Hotel Blauer Bock (Map pp82-3; %231 780; www .hotelblauerbock.de; Sebastiansplatz 9; s €64-72, d €100-120; pn) A whiff of roasted almonds away from the Viktualienmarkt, this no-nonsense hotel once provided shelter for Benedictine monks and has a location that’s the envy of more prestigious abodes. It’s comfy, familiar and spacious, but if you also want a bit of style request one of the recently updated rooms. Cheaper ones share bathrooms. Hotel am Viktualienmarkt (Map pp82-3; %231 1090; www.hotel-am-viktualienmarkt.de; Utzschneiderstrasse 14; s/d/tr/f €48/98/115/135; n) Owners Elke and her daughter Stephanie run this good-value property with panache and a sunny attitude. A steep staircase (no lift) leads to rooms, the nicest of which have wooden floors and framed poster art. Prices drop 20% Friday to Sunday. TOP END Cortiina (Map pp82-3; %242 2490; www.cortiina.com; Ledererstrasse 8; s/d €146-196, d €186-206; pnai) Tiptoeing between hip and haute, this hotel scores best with trendy, design-minded travel- lers. The street-level lounge usually buzzes with cocktail-swilling belles and beaus, but all traces of hustle evaporate the moment you step into your minimalist, Feng Shui–inspired room. Breakfast is best enjoyed in the little garden. Hotel Mandarin Oriental Munich (Map pp82-3; %200 980; www.mandarinoriental.com; Neuturmstrasse 1; s €325-440, d €375-490; pais) This luxe neo-Renaissance villa woos presidents, dip- lomats, stars and the merely rich with top- notch rooms and off-the-charts service. Paul McCartney, Bill Clinton and Prince Charles have all spent the night. Service is polite al- most to a fault, but breakfast will set you back an additional €19. Schwabing & Maxvorstadt Pension am Kaiserplatz (Map p81; %349 190; fax 339 316; Kaiserplatz 12, Schwabing; s with shared bathroom €31-47, d €49-59; n) This sweet and unhurried B&B in a Jugendstil building has just 10 rooms, lovingly decorated in a hodgepodge of styles, from modern to rococo. Nice touch: breakfast is delivered to your door by the congenial host herself. Gästehaus Englischer Garten (Map p81; %383 9410; www.hotelenglischergarten.de; Liebergesellstrasse 8, Schwabing; s/d from €97/158, s/d with shared bathroom from €70/90; p) This bastion of warmth and hospitality occupies a 200-year-old ivy-clad mill whose idyllic terrace abuts the English Garden. It’s quite popular despite the fact that six of the 12 rooms must share one toilet per MUNICH MUNICH 112 MUNICH •• Sleeping Bookyourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Bookyourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels MUNICH •• Sleeping 113 floor, plus one full bathroom in the basement (robes are provided). Hotel Hauser an der Universität (Map p81; %286 6750; www.hotel-hauser.de; Schellingstrasse 11, Maxvorstadt; s €80-135, d €105-190, tr €125-230; pa) This student- quarter property delivers a lot more com- fort than first meets the eye. Each of the 34 updated rooms come with air-con, special noise-proof windows and crisply blonde fur- niture. Sightseeing fatigue quickly fades in the impeccable sauna and steam room. Hotel Marienbad (Map pp82-3; %595 585; www .hotelmarienbad.de; Barer Strasse 11, Maxvorstadt; s €80-100, d €110-135; p) Back in the 19th century, Wagner, Puccini and Rilke shacked up in what once ranked among Munich’s finest hotels. Still friendly and well maintained, it now flaunts an endearing alchemy of styles, from playful Art Nouveau to floral country Bavarian to campy 1960s utilitarian. Amenities, fortu- nately, are of more recent vintage. Cosmopolitan Hotel (Map p81; %383 810; www .cosmopolitan-hotel.de; Hohenzollernstrasse 5, Schwabing; s €115-170, d €125-180; p) This heart-of-Schwabing property focuses on delivering amenities and services people actually want and need. Rooms have balconies and a crisp contemporary look thanks to chic Ligne Roset furniture; those in the back wing are better for light sleepers. Breakfasts are lavish. La Maison (Map p81; %3303 5550; www.hotel-la-mai son.com; Occamstrasse 24; s/d €140/175; pnai) It didn’t take long for this sassy designer hotel to score points with chic, style-minded interna- tional travellers. The décor is cutting edge but with a sensuous vibe stemming from rich ma- terials like heated oak floors, extravagant design touches and a love for shades of purple. The restaurant gets high marks, and wi-fi is free. Nymphenburg, Neuhausen & Olympiapark Hotel Laimer Hof (Map p80; %178 0380; www.laimerhof .de; Laimer Strasse 40; s €70-155, d €90-175; pn) Run by a lovely couple, this charismatic respite from the big-city bustle has a relaxed country feel and is only a five-minute walk from Schloss Nymphenburg. No two of the 23 rooms are alike, but all get a timeless elegance from antique furniture, oriental carpets and cosy beds. Ludwigsvorstadt & Westend BUDGET Wombat’s City Hostel (Map pp82-3; %5998 9180; www .wombats-hostels.com; Senefelderstrasse 1; dm €12-24, s/d €68; pi) This hostel-hotel combo gets top marks for style, comfort and location. You’ll sleep well in pine beds with real mattresses (free linen) and reading lamps in doubles and dorms with private bathrooms. A welcome drink is thrown in at the in-house bar but optional breakfast is an extra €4. oMeininger City Hostels & Hotel (Map pp82-3; %030-6663 6100; www.meininger-hostels.de; Landsbergerstrasse 20; dm/s/d from €16.50/43/62; pni) Run with smiles and aplomb, this hotel-hos- tel scores points with wallet-watching global nomads for three reasons: location, amenities and service. Just west of the Hauptbahnhof, it has 380 beds in 95 cheerful rooms ranging in size from singles to 12-bed dorms, each with clean private shower and toilet. Rates include a generous buffet breakfast, security is tops and the bar is great for making friends. Best of all: it’s right across from the Augustiner brewery, which operates one of the city’s best beer halls, the Augustiner Bräustuben (p119). Other budget abodes: Hotel Eder (Map pp82-3; %554 660; www.hotel -eder.de; Zweigstrasse 8; s €45-95, d €60-150, tr €87-180, q €97-200; n) Expect local colour galore at this tradi- tional, rustic hotel with unevenly sized rooms, including some for families. Pension Westfalia (Map pp82-3; %530 377; www .pension-westfalia.de; Mozartstrasse 23; s €50-70, d €70-95, s/d shared bathroom from €37/50; n) Near the Oktoberfest meadow, this cosy, family-run Pension has comfy, modern rooms reached by a lift. Hotel Jedermann (off Map pp82-3; %543 240; www.hotel-jedermann.de; Bayerstrasse 95; s €50-135, d €70-185; pnai) Friendly and progressive family hotel with attractive black-and-blonde furniture and modern bathrooms. MIDRANGE Hotel Uhland (Map pp82-3; %543 350; www.hotel-uh land.de; Uhlandstrasse 1; s €75-140, d €85-185; pni) The Uhland is an enduring favourite with regulars who expect their hotel to feel like a home away from home. Three generations of family members are constantly finding ways to improve their guests’ experience, be it with wi-fi, bathroom phones, ice cubes, bike rentals or mix-your-own breakfast muesli. Belle Blue Hotel Garni (Map pp82-3; %550 6260; www.hotel-belleblue.com; Schillerstrasse 21; s €80-220, d €90-250; pnai) This chic little hotel employs a tried-and-true design formula to great effect. Snazzy bath fixtures, tailor-made furniture and walls splashed in various hues of blue – cool cobalt to spunky turquoise to soft lavender – compensate for the comparatively snug size of the rooms. Other perks include a gargantuan breakfast buffet and kind hosts. Hotel-Pension Mariandl (Map pp82-3; %534 108; www.hotelmariandl.com; Goethestrasse 51; s €60-90, d €95- 145) If you like quirkiness and history, you’ll find both aplenty in this rambling neo-Gothic mansion. It’s an utterly charming place where rooms convincingly capture the Jugendstil period with hand-selected antiques and orna- mented ceilings. Breakfast is served until 4pm in the Vienna-style downstairs café, which also has live jazz or classical music nightly. Hotel Hotelissimo Haberstock (Map pp82-3; %557 855; www.hotelissimo.com; Schillerstrasse 4; s €70-200, d €100-200; n) The cheery décor at this value- for-money pick reflects the vision of the owners, a husband-and-wife team with a knack for colour, fabrics and design. Easy- on-the-eye gold, brown and cream tones dominate the good-sized rooms on the lower floors, while upper ones radiate a bolder, Mediterranean palette. Alpen Hotel (Map pp82-3; %559 330; www.alpen hotel-muenchen.de, in German; Adolf-Kolping-Strasse 14; s/d from €110/140; ni) Keeping up with the times has been a credo of the Bauer family for four generations. The latest makeover has resulted in a winsome blend of rustic and modern de- sign with a bevy of amenities. In fine weather, sip your morning coffee in the snug, flower- filled garden, while the clubby fireplace salon is a cosy retreat on rainy afternoons. Schiller 5 (Map pp82-3; %515 040; www.schiller5 .com; Schillerstrasse 5; s €117-177, d €140-200, ste €250-300, breakfast €14; pna) You won’t miss many comforts of home in these breezy boarding house units where a kitchenette and sound system are as much a part of the inventory as the direct-dial phone with voicemail, the extra-large beds and free wi-fi. Rates drop for stays of more than five days. TOP END Sofitel Munich Bayerpost (Map pp82-3; %599 480; www.sofitel.com; Bayerstrasse 12; s €160-400, d €185-420; pnais) The restored Renaissance façade of a former post office hides this high- concept jewel that wraps all that’s great about Munich – history, innovation, elegance, the art of living – into one neat and appealing package. Be sure to make time for the luxuri- ous spa whose grotto-like pool juts into the atrium lobby lidded by a tinted glass roof. oanna hotel (Map pp82-3; %599 940; www .geisel-privathotels.de; Schützenstrasse 1; s €170-215, d €190- 235; nai) Urban sophisticates love this designer den where you can retire to rooms dressed in sensuous Donghia furniture and regal colours, or others with a more minimal- ist feel tempered by teakwood, marble and mosaics. The swanky restaurant-bar is a 24/7 beehive of activity. Gärtnerplatzviertel & Glockenbachviertel BUDGET & MIDRANGE Pension Gärtnerplatz (Map pp82-3; %202 5170; www .pension-gaertnerplatztheater.de; Klenzestrasse 45; s/d from €70/95; p) Escape the tourist rabble, or real- ity altogether, in this eccentric establishment where rooms are a stylish interpretation of Alpine pomp. The one named ‘Sisi’ will have you sleeping in a canopy bed guarded by a giant porcelain mastiff. Quality bedding and free wi-fi are nice touches. Pension Eulenspiegel (Map pp82-3; %266 678; www.pensioneulenspiegel.de; Müllerstrasse 43a; s €50-70, d €80-100; pn) Completely nonsmoking, this little guesthouse has undergone a major face- lift and now features rooms with sparkling wooden floors, phones and showers (toilets are down the hall). Wi-fi is free. Deutsche Eiche (Map pp82-3; %231 1660; www .deutsche-eiche.com; Reichenbachstrasse 13; s €70-90, d €95-245; pn) If the walls of this legendary restaurant-hotel combo could talk, the stories would make you laugh, blush, cry and cringe. It’s traditionally been a gay outpost but style junkies of all sexual persuasions should enjoy the plushly designed rooms. Older rooms downstairs are cheaper. Also on the premises: a gay sauna. Hotel Olympic (Map pp82-3; %231 890; www .hotel-olympic.de; Hans-Sachs-Strasse 4; s €90-150, d €140- 180; pna) If you’re into designer décor, Frette linens and chocolate on your pillow, go elsewhere. But if you like a hip location, public areas doubling as an art gallery and spacious rooms, give this one a try. Rooms facing the inner courtyard are quieter. TOP END Hotel Advokat (Map pp82-3; %216 310; www.hotel -advokat.de; Baaderstrasse 1; s €120-140, d €140-160; pn) At Munich’s first boutique hotel, minimalist ’60s décor meets maximum service. Rooms won’t fit a tonne of luggage but are nicely dressed in creamy hues, tactile fabrics and MUNICH MUNICH 114 MUNICH •• Eating Bookyourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Eating 115 subtle lighting. Guests rave about the break- fast; a smorgasbord of fresh fruit, deli salads, smoked salmon and organic cheeses. Hotel Admiral (Map pp82-3; %216 350; www .hotel-admiral.de; Kohlstrasse 9; s €120-270, d €150-300; pn) Checking into this hotel feels a bit like arriving at your rich uncle’s manor in the English countryside. Fine woven tapestries, oil paintings and richly polished woods smoothly blend into a refined atmosphere. Start days with breakfast in the rose garden, then wind down with free port in the bar before retiring to mostly good-sized rooms. Lehel Hotel Splendid-Dollmann (Map p85; %238 080; www .hotel-splendid-dollmann.de; Thierschstrasse 49; s €133-163, d €175-215; n) This small but posh player de- livers old-world charm by the bucket and is sure to delight romantics. The mood is set at check-in where fresh orchids, classical music and friendly staff welcome you. Retire to an- tique-furnished rooms, the idyllic terraced garden or the regally furnished lounge. Rooms in front must deal with tram noise. Hotel Opéra (Map p85; %210 4940; www.hotel-opera .de; St-Anna-Strasse 10; s €185-235, d €210-265; ni) Like the gates to heaven, a white double door opens at the touch of a tiny brass button. Beyond awaits a posh and petite cocoon of quiet sophistication with peaches-and-cream marble floors, a chandelier scavenged from the Vatican and uniquely decorated rooms. In summer, the serene arcaded courtyard is per- fect for alfresco breakfast, served à la carte. Haidhausen Hotel Ritzi (Map p85; %419 5030; www.hotel-ritzi .de; Maria-Theresia-Strasse 2a; s/d from €100/155) Rooms are like fantasies transporting you to the Caribbean, Africa, Morocco and other ex- otic lands at this charming art hotel next to a little park perfect for a stress-busting jog. All 25 are outfitted with modern gadg- ets and amenities, including wi-fi. The Art Deco bar-lounge is a great launch pad for a night on the town. Hotel am Nockherberg (Map pp78-9; %623 0010; www.nockherberg.de; Nockherstrasse 38a; s €87-110, d €110-125; pn) This charming base of oper- ation south of the Isar puts you close to the Deutsches Museum, the bar- and restaurant- filled Gärtnerplatzviertel and the Gasteig cul- tural centre. The room décor is pleasing in a generic kind of way but all major mod-cons, including free wi-fi, are accounted for, and there’s a sauna to boot. Long-Term Rentals If you’re staying in Munich for a week or longer, it might work out cheaper to rent a room, flat or apartment. Rooms start at €180 per week and €350 per month, while studio flats will set you back about €300 per week and €600 per month, all excluding the 25% commission and 19% VAT. Places to try: Mitwohnzentrale – Mr Lodge (Map p81; %340 8230; www.mrlodge.de; Barer Strasse 32) Statthotel (%08709-926 00; www.statthotel.de) EATING Munich has Bavaria’s most exciting cuisine scene. Sure, plenty of eating still goes on in traditional beer halls and restaurants where the menu rarely ventures beyond the roast pork and sausage routine. But there’s also lots of innovation in Munich kitchens, where the best dishes make use of fresh regional, seasonal and organic ingredients. The most adventurous chefs flirt with foreign influences, be they Middle Eastern spices, Asian cooking techniques or Mediterranean flavour pairings. There’s something for every palate, and gener- ally, for every wallet. Dinner reservations are always a good idea, even in casual places. Restaurants ALTSTADT Bratwurstherzl (Map pp82-3; %295 113; Dreifaltig- keitsplatz 1; mains €6-10; h10am-11pm) Cosy panelling and an ancient vaulted brick ceil- ing set the tone of this Old Munich chow house with a Franconian focus, awarded an Umweltsiegel (ecoseal) by the Bavarian gov- ernment. Home-made organic sausages are grilled to perfection on an open beechwood fire, served on heart-shaped tin plates and best enjoyed with a cold beer straight from the wooden keg. Yum2Take (Map pp82-3; %6606 3613; Sebastiansplatz 8; mains €7-9; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, 3-11pm Sun) Thai gets a contemporary, healthy twist (all meats are organic) at this stylish lunchtime favourite of cubicle slaves and sales clerks. Luscious dishes like coconut-based tom kha soup, pad thai or a fragrant curry perfectly capture the mood of Siam. Skip the salads – the sickly sweet dressing needs fine-tuning. Weisses Brauhaus (Map pp82-3; %299 875; Tal 7; mains €7-15; h8am-midnight) Graduates of the sausage- and-pork-knuckle school of Bavarian cook- ing can mount their own Survivor challenge at this uberauthentic Munich pub, awarded an ecoseal for ecofriendly management. Sour pork kidney, baked udder and fried cow’s head anyone? Wash it down with the Schneider Weisse house hefeweizen. Riva (Map pp82-3; %220 240; Tal 44, Altstadt; mains €7-15; h8am-1am) Watch the pizza acrobats toss and twirl the dough into submission before tickling it with wood fire just long enough to produce perfectly crispy thin crusts. For top- pings you can go classic with tomato, basil and mozzarella or adventurous with veal slices, tuna creme and capers. Also has a branch in Schwabing (p116). Prinz Myschkin (Map pp82-3; %265 596; www .prinzmyshkin.com; Hackenstrasse 2; mains €7-17; h11am- 12.30am; v) Herbivore or meathead, your taste- buds will be doing somersaults at what many hail as Munich’s best vegetarian restaurant. The high-ceilinged hall can get noisy but the menu is an intriguing mosaic of international flavours with special kudos going to the cre- spelle al forno (spinach-ricotta filled crepes). Hundskugel (Map pp82-3; %264 272; Hotterstrasse 18; mains €8-20; h10.30am-midnight) Munich’s oldest tavern, founded in 1440, has only 40 seats and is so intimate that it feels like sitting inside a cutesy doll house. The food’s honest-to- goodness Bavarian home cooking, and the roast suckling pig with dark beer sauce (€14.50) is the undisputed speciality. Lamm’s (Map pp82-3; %359 1963; Sendlinger-Tor-Platz 11; mains €9-18; h24hr) It’s old school, the music is terrible and the service challenged, but after a night of partying, a pile of Lamm’s spare ribs is simply the perfect hangover antidote. On weekdays, tourists invade for the €5 lunches (served until 5pm). Awarded an ecoseal from the Bavarian government for minimising packaging, using local and seasonal produce and recycling. Conviva (Map pp82-3; %2333 6977; Hildegardstrasse 1; 3-course lunch €8-10, dinner mains €10-15; h11am-1am Mon-Sat Oct-Mar, 5pm-1am Sat & Sun Apr-Sep; v) Great food in a theatre restaurant? The Conviva folks show it can be done. Clever but un- fussy dishes like carrot-lime-ginger soup, goat cheese flan or rabbit with porcini are prepared day by day by a kitchen staff that integrates people with learning disabilities. Zerwirk (Map pp82-3; %2323 9191; Ledererstrasse 3; mains €10-18; h11am-1am Mon-Sat, 6pm-1am Sun; v) A vegan haven inside an 800-year-old former meat factory? Kind of a sick twist, but who cares when the chef is a genius at coaxing flavour out of even the humblest vegetable. Swiss chard roulade or spinach bulgur strudel taste delicious in the airy, minimalist dining room. Deli dabblers enjoy healthy soups or salads in the organic food store in the basement. SCHWABING & MAXVORSTADT Café an der Uni (Map p81; %2898 6600; Ludwigstrasse 24, Maxvorstadt; snacks from €3.50, mains €8-11; h8am- 2am; v) Anytime is a good time to be at charismatic CADU. Enjoy breakfast (served until a hangover-friendly 11.30pm!), a cuppa Java or a Helles in the lovely garden hidden by a wall from busy Ludwigstrasse. Bar Tapas (Map p81; %390 919; Amalienstrasse 97, Maxvorstadt; tapas €3.90 each; h4pm-1am; v) A phalanx of 30 tapas – boquerones (anchovies) to octopus salad to garlic chicken – reports to duty behind glass along the bar of this convivial Iberian outpost. Write down the numbers, then sit back with a jug of sangria and wait for your tasty morsels to arrive. Il Mulino (Map p81; %523 3335; Görresstrasse 1, Schwabing; mains €5-10; h10am-1am; v) It’s got a new owner but the food is as sharp as ever at this neighbourhood classic that’s been feeding Italophiles for three decades. All the expected pastas and pizzas are accounted for, although the daily specials will likely tickle the palate of more curious eaters. Casa de Tapas (Map p81; %2731 2288; Bauerstrasse 2, Schwabing; tapas €2.50-6, mains €9.50-15; h4pm-1am; v) The painted ceiling and rustic elegance of this buzzy bodega transport you straight to the Iberian Peninsula. There’s a fine menu of meat and fish mains, but it’s also a top spot for such tapas as Serrano ham, marinated squid, garlic prawns and other tastebud ticklers. Schmock (Map p81; %5235 0535; Augustenstrasse 52, Schwabing; mains €14-22; h6pm-1am; v) Kosher TOP FIVE RESTAURANTS FOR VEGETARIANS Prinz Myschkin (left) Zewirk (left) Maoz (p117) Kao Kao (p116) Café an der Uni (above) MUNICH MUNICH 116 MUNICH •• Eating  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Eating 117 food gets a gourmet twist at this elegant rest- aurant with its stucco ornamented ceiling, fresh flowers and complexion-friendly Art Nouveau lamps. The goat cheese in filo is a great overture for such flavour symphonies as venison with chestnut puree. Riva Bar (Map p81; %309-051 808; Feilitzschstrasse 4; mains €7-15; h11.30am-1am) The sexier sister pizz- eria of the original Altstadt branch (p115). NEUHAUSEN Ruffini (Map p80; %161 160; Orffstrasse 22; meals €7-10; h10am-midnight Tue-Sun; v) This been-there- forever café is a fun place to be no matter where the hands of the clock are. On sunny days, the self-service rooftop terrace gets a steady stream of tattooed scenesters, hip fami- lies and wallet-watching students. Organic ingredients are used, wherever possible. Zapata (Map p80; %166 5822; Wilderich-Lang-Strasse 4; mains €8-18; h5pm-1am) It’s always fiesta time at Munich’s most authentic Mexican cantina where one stiff margarita may be all it takes to drown your sorrows. To stay stable, load up on sizzling fajitas, ginormous burritos and other delicious south-of-the-border staples. Zauberberg (Map p80; %1899 9178; Hedwigstrasse 14; lunch €7-9; dinner menu 3/4/5 courses €38/48/55, with wine €52/65/72; hnoon-2am Tue-Thu, 7pm-1am daily; n) Far off the tourist track, this 40-seat locals’ favourite will put your tummy into a state of contentment with its elegant, well-composed international creations. Single plates are avail- able but in order to truly sample the chef’s tal- ents, you should order a multicourse menu. WESTEND & LUDWIGSVORSTADT Müller & Söhne (Map pp82-3; %4523 7867; Kazmairstrasse 28, Westend; mains €6-12; h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 6pm Sat; v) In a former bakery, this sweet, unhurried café fits as comfortably as a well- worn shoe. Everyone from young mothers to office folks and local artists gathers behind the big windows for breakfast, strong Java or tasty, Italian-flavoured sustenance. Marais (Map pp82-3; %5009 4552; Parkstrasse 2, Westend; dishes €4-9; h8am-8pm; v) Conversation never seem to flag at this dusty haberdasher turned ultracosy coffeehouse. The old shelves, glass cases and creaky cash register from the 1930s are still there and everything – from buttons to bio-cosmetics and the antique chair you’re sitting on – is for sale. Stragula (Map pp78-9; %507 743; Bergmannstrasse 66, Westend; mains €7-12; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30pm-1am Mon-Thu, 6pm-1am Fri-Sun) This Westend institution has been feeding friendly locals for nearly a quarter-century. It maintains a relaxed, living- room–like feel, holds regular literary readings, and serves Bavarian and Italian food. Kao Kao (Map pp82-3; %505 400; Tulbeckstrasse 9, Westend; mains €12-19; hnoon-2pm Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am daily; v) A tantalising aroma of lemongrass, curry and coconut will perk up even the most jaded proboscis at this top Thai parlour with zero kitsch factor. The menu hopscotches from classic pad thai to red shrimp curry with lychees and Barbary duck in whisky sauce, usually with palate-pleasing results. The lunch buffet is a steal at €7.50. La Vecchia Masseria (Map pp82-3; %550 9090; Mathildenstrasse 3, Ludwigsvorstadt; mains €6-15; h11.30am-midnight) The ambience here is in- delibly Italian: loud, good value but somehow still romantic. Earthy wood tables, antique tin buckets, baskets and clothing irons conjure up the ambience of a Tuscan farmhouse. The chef comes out to greet customers in his trademark straw hat. GÄRTNERPLATZVIERTEL & GLOCKENBACHVIERTEL oFraunhofer (Map pp82-3; %266 460; Fraunhoferstrasse 9, Gärtnerplatzviertel; mains €5-14; h4.30pm-1am) This classic brewpub brings tradition into the 21st century. The olde- worlde atmosphere (mounted animal heads and a portrait of Ludwig II) contrasts with the clued-in, intergenerational crowd and a menu that offers progressive takes on classi- cal fare. The tiny theatre at the back has some great shows and was among the venues that pioneered a modern style of Volksmusik (folk music) back in the ’70s and ’80s. Sushi + Soul (Map pp82-3; %201 0992; Klenzestrasse 71, Glockenbachviertel; mains €8-18; h6pm-1am) The sushi is good, other dishes can be hit or miss but the scene is fun anyway with hipsters washing down piscine morsels with creative cocktails (Tokyopolitan anyone?) while get- ting showered with Japanese pop. A flirty Sex & the City vibe rules, especially during happy hour (6pm to 8pm and after 11pm) when drinks are half-price. Joe Peña’s (Map pp82-3; %226 463; Butter- melcherstrasse 17, Gärtnerplatzviertel; mains €10-17; h5pm-1am) This festive cantina-style rest- aurant is regarded as Munich’s best Tex-Mex place and can get very crowded, especially during happy hour (5pm to 8pm). The food is tasty and as authentic as you’d expect this side of the Atlantic. La Bouche (Map pp82-3; %265 626; Jahnstrasse 30, enter on Westermühlstrasse, Glockenbachviertel; mains €12.50- 17.50; hnoon-3pm Mon-Fri, 6-10pm Mon-Sat) It’s good vibes all around at this French-inspired port of call where tables are squished as tight as lovers and the accent is on imaginative but gimmick- free fare. We loved the truffle ravioli. By the way, it’s much bigger than first meets the eye – there’s a second room at the back. Also recommended: MC Müller (Map pp82-3; %1891 0039; cnr Müller- strasse & Fraunhoferstrasse, Gärtnerplatzviertel; burger from €5; h6pm-2am Sun-Wed, 6pm-4am Thu-Sat) Sixties looks and triple duty as bar, DJ lounge and burger joint until the wee hours. Sevenfish (Map pp82-3; %2300 0219; Gärtnerplatz 6; mains lunch €8.50-13.50, dinner €14-23, menu €40; h10am-1am) Great and innovative fish dishes, albeit served with a side of trendy aloofness. Get real! LEHEL & HAIDHAUSEN Nage & Sauge (Map p85; %298 803; Mariannenstrasse 2; mains €7.50-13; h5.15pm-1am) Candles, Chianti and a table for two are the hallmarks of a romantic night out. Even if your date doesn’t make you swoon, the delicious Italian food will ensure an unforgettable evening. The signature dish is Ente Elvis, starring duck flambeéd with cassis (black current liqueur). Wirtshaus in der Au (Map p85; %448 1400; Lilienstrasse 51; mains €9-18; h5pm-1am Mon-Fri, 10am- 1am Sat & Sun) A traditional Bavarian restaurant with a solid 21st-century vibe – how refresh- ing is that? Dumplings are the speciality at this top pick near the Deutsches Museum (try the trio with cheese, red beet and spin- ach variations) but other favourites, updated of course, also keep regulars coming back. Beer garden in summer, crackling fireplace in winter. No Mi Ya (Map p85; %448 4095; Wörthstrasse 7; à la carte €1.20-7.60, platters €15-27; h6pm-1am) Antlers and sushi? Weissbier and yakitori (grilled chicken on skewers)? This Bavarian-Japanese tavern definitely takes fusion to new heights. If the packed tables are any indication, Ferdinand Schuster’s concept is a winner, and not only with the fickle in-crowd. Paros (Map p85; %470 2995; Kirchenstrasse 21; mains €8-18; h5pm-1am) You’ll kick up your heels like Zorba himself after filling your tummy with Greek soul food at this simple yet sophisti- cated nosh spot. The menu features all the usual suspects (gyros, moussaka, avgolem- ono soup) but daily specials like veal cutlet grilled on lava rock are worth exploring as well. Opa! Showroom (Map p85; %444 290; Lilienstrasse 6; mains €17-25, menu €55; h5pm-1am Mon-Sat) Andreas Schweiger’s crossover creations strike just the right balance between adventure and com- fort, which is why his restaurant is among the hottest in town. Foie gras spiced with leb- kuchen or quail and shrimp with pear-lentil salad pack plenty of substance to please even demanding palates. Nektar (Map p85; %4591 1311; Stubenvollstrasse 1; dinner menu €49; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun) With its dra- matic mood-lighting, drag queen performers and sexy crowd, this big-city spot delivers so much eye candy, it’s hard to focus on the flavour-intense fusion food. Eating is done Roman style: lying down (but without the buckets...). Wear nice socks. Also recommended: L’Angolo della Pizza (Map p85; %448 8979; Breisacher Strasse 30; pizza €3-10; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30pm-12.30am Mon-Fri & Sun, 4pm-12.30am Sat) Modern, uncluttered pizzeria with delicious, thin-crust pies plus daily blackboard specials. Quick Eats Bergwolf (Map pp82-3; %2325 9858; Fraunhoferstrasse 17, Glockenbachviertel; sausage €2.80; hnoon-2am Mon-Thu, noon-4am Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun, closed 3-6pm Sun-Fri) At this favourite pit stop for night owls, the poison of choice is Currywurst, a sliced spicy sausage provocatively dressed in a curried ketchup and best paired with a pile of steamy fries. Hangover prevention at its finest. Eiscafé Sarcletti (Map p80; %155 314; Nymphenburger Strasse 155, Neuhausen; h8.30am-11pm) Addicts brave rock-star-worthy lines to get their gelato fix at this Munich institution that has been working its frozen magic since 1879. Choose from more than 50 mouthwatering flavours, from not-so-plain vanilla to honey-yogurt or caramel. Maoz (Map pp82-3; Lueg Ins Land 1, Altstadt; sandwich €2.50-3.50; h10am-10pm; v) One bite and you’re hooked by Maoz’ crunchy falafels tucked into a wholemeal or white pita pocket. Get as crea- tive as you want when loading up on crisp sal- ads and tasty sauces at the DIY bar. A healthy, meat-free snack. Pommes Boutique (Map p81; %9547 3312; Amalienstrasse 46, Maxvorstadt; fries €2.20; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun) At Bergwolf’s classier MUNICH MUNICH 118 MUNICH •• Drinking  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Drinking 119 TOP FIVE LATE-NIGHT NOSH SPOTS Alter Simpl (p120) Bergwolf (p117) Eat the Rich (p120) Lamm’s (p114) MC Müller (p117) cousin the walls are mod green and purple, the sausage gourmet and the fries organic. Pair them with 20 different dips, most of them fingerlickin’ delish. Dönertier (Map pp82-3; Sendlinger Strasse 31; döner €3.60-4.20; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat) This spacey döner (doner kebab) bar takes the humble snack to new heights. Go classic or try the ‘deluxe’ version with rucola (rocket) and mozzarella, and definitely top it off with the refreshing mango yogurt. Mama’s Kebap Haus (Map p81; %392 642; Feilitzschstrasse 7, Schwabing; döner €3.50, mains around €10; h11am-1am) A döner institution popular with night owls. Self-Catering The dominant supermarket chains are Aldi, Penny, Tengelmann, Lidl and Plus, with mult- iple branches scattered throughout the city. For a better, more upscale (and pricier) select- ion, head to the supermarket in the basement of the Kaufhof (Map pp82-3; %512 50; Karlsplatz 21-24, Altstadt) department store or the Viktualienmarkt (p77). Deep-pocketed gourmets have a couple of venerable destinations to look forward to: Dallmayr (Map pp82-3; %213 50; Dienerstrasse 14, Altstadt; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) is famous for its coffee but has so much more, including cheeses, ham, truffles, wine, caviar and exotic foods from every corner of the earth. Käfer (Map p85; %416 8255; Prinzregentenstrasse 73, Haidhausen; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4pm Sat) is just as good. For organic anything, steer towards Basic Bio (h8am-8pm; v) Altstadt (Map pp82-3; %242 0890; Westenriederstrasse 35); Schwabing (Map p81; %323 8470; Schleissheimer Strasse 158) or Zerwirk (p114). Need a bottle of wine, dog food or toilet paper at 5am in the morning? You’ll find all of this and then some at Kiosk Reichenbachbrücke (Map pp82-3; %201 5297; Fraunhoferstrasse 46, Gärtnerplatzviertel; h24hr), a kiosk with cult sta- tus among clued-in Münchners. DRINKING Munich is a great place for boozers. Raucous beer halls, snazzy hotel lounges, chestnut- canopied beer gardens, hipster DJ bars, de- signer cocktail temples – the variety is so huge that finding a party pen to match your mood is not exactly a tall order. Generally speaking, student-flavoured places abound in Maxvorstadt and Schwabing, while traditional beer halls and taverns cluster in the Altstadt; Haidhausen goes for trendy types and the Gärtnerplatzviertel and Glockenbachviertel is a haven for gays and hipsters. No matter where you are, you won’t be far from an enticing café to get a Java-infused pick-me-up. Many also serve light fare and delicious cakes (often home-made) and are great places to linger, chat, write postcards or simply watch people on parade. See the boxed text (opposite) and the reviews under Bars & Cafés (opposite) for suggestions. Beer Halls & Gardens Bavaria’s brews are best sampled in a vener- able old Bierkeller (beer hall) and Biergarten (beer garden). People come here primarily to drink, and although food may be served, it is generally an afterthought. In beer gardens you are usually allowed to bring your own picnic as long as you sit at tables without tablecloths and order something to drink. Sometimes there’s a resident brass band showering you with oompah music. And don’t even think about sitting at a Stammtisch, a table reserved for regulars (look for a brass plaque, a shingle or some other sign)! Beer costs €6 to €7.50 per litre. A deposit of €2 or so may be charged for the glass. ALTSTADT Viktualienmarkt (Map pp82-3; %297 545; Viktualienmarkt 6; h9am-10pm) After a day of sightseeing or shopping stock up on tasty nibbles at the Viktualienmarkt, then lug your loot a few steps further to this chestnut-shaded beer garden, a Munich institution since 1807. The breweries take turns serving here, so you never know what’s on tap. Braunauer Hof (Map pp82-3; %223 613; Frauenstrasse 42; h9am-midnight Mon-Sat) Near the Isartor, this pleasingly twisted beer garden is centred on a snug courtyard. There’s a hedge maze, a fresco with a bizarre bunch of historical figures and a golden bull that’s illuminated at night. Hofbräuhaus (Map pp82-3; %221 676; Am Platzl 9) Definitely the mecca of beer halls. We can’t stop you from making the pilgrimage but we bet that after witnessing the drunken shenani- gans, you’ll agree that there are more civilised imbibing options in town. The beer garden offers some sensory relief. SCHWABING Chinesischer Turm (Map p81; %383 8730; Englischer Garten 3) This one’s hard to ignore because of its English Garden location and pedigree as Munich’s oldest beer garden (since 1791). Tourists and trendoids clump around the wooden pagoda, showered by the strained sounds of possibly the world’s drunkest oompah band. Hirschau (Map p81; %322 1080; Gysslingstrasse 15) This beer garden for 1700 people has live jazz almost daily in summer, and Spaten and Franziskaner on tap. Kids get their kicks on the playground and adjacent minigolf course. Take the U6 to Dietlindenstrasse, then it’s a 15-minute walk. Seehaus (Map p81; %381 6130; Kleinhesselohe 3) A drinks station for the posh set, right on the Kleinhesseloher See, with dreamy views of the lake and the park. Paulaner is the featured brew. NEUHAUSEN & NYMPHENBURG Hirschgarten (Map p80; %172 591; Hirschgartenallee 1, Nymphenburg; h9am-midnight) The ‘Everest’ of Munich gardens can accommodate up to 8000 Augustiner lovers, but still manages to feel airy and uncluttered. It’s in a lovely spot in a former royal hunting preserve and rubs up against a deer enclosure and a carousel. Steer here after visiting Schloss Nymphenburg – it’s only a short walk south of the palace. Augustiner Keller (off Map pp82-3; %594 393; Arnulfstrasse 52, Neuhausen; h10am-midnight) A bell chimes every time a new keg is tapped and at this handsome leafy beer garden with space for 5000 thirsty revellers it rarely stops. The ancient chestnuts are thick enough to seek ref- uge under when it rains, or else lug your mug to the actual beer cellar. Small playground. WESTEND oAugustiner Bräustuben (Map pp82-3; %507 047; Landsberger Strasse 19, Westend; h10am-midnight) Depending on the wind, an aroma of hops envelops you as you approach this ultra- authentic beer hall inside the actual Augustiner brewery, popular with the brewmeisters them- selves (there’s an entire table reserved just for them). The Bavarian grub here is superb, especially the Schweinshaxe. Giant black draft horses are stabled behind glass on your way to the loo. HAIDHAUSEN Biergarten Muffatwerk (Map p85; %4587 5073; Zellstrasse 4; h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, noon-1am Fri & Sat) Think of this one as a progressive beer garden with reggae instead of oompah, civilised im- bibing instead of brainless guzzling, organic meats, fish and vegetables on the grill, and the option of chilling in lounge chairs. Plus it’s open late. BEYOND THE INNER CITY Zum Flaucher (Map pp78-9; %723 2677; Isarauen 8, Sendling; h11.30am-10pm Tue-Sun) This congenial restaurant-cum-beer garden in the Isar River meadows feels a like a microvacation from the city bustle. The spare ribs are fall-off-the- bone tender, kids can wear themselves out on the imaginative playground and soccer fans descend for big matches beamed onto a giant screen. Take the U3 to Brudermühlstrasse. Waldwirtschaft Grosshesselohe (off Map pp78-9; %795 088; Georg-Kalb-Strasse 3, Grosshesselohe; h11am- 11pm) One of Munich’s nicest beer garden oases, this one delivers Spaten beer, 2500 seats under shady chestnuts, idyllic views of the Isar valley and live jazz nightly in good weather from Easter through September. Kids can frolic in the big playground. Take the S7 to Grosshesselohe/Isartalbahnhof. Bars & Cafés Cafés listed here can be considered child- friendly during the day. ALTSTADT Schumann’s Bar (Map pp82-3; %229 060; Odeonsplatz 6-7) Urbane and sophisticated, Schumann’s TOP FIVE PLACES FOR COFFEE Black Bean (p120) Café an der Uni (p115) Götterspeise (p121) Marais (p116) Zappeforster (p121) MUNICH MUNICH 120 MUNICH •• Drinking  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Entertainment 121 has been shaking up Munich’s nightlife with libational flights of fancy in an impressive range of more than 220 concoctions. Great for a first date. Master’s Home (Map pp82-3; %229 909; Frauenstrasse 11) This is a wonderfully quirky cellar just east of the Viktualienmarkt. The off-centre décor time warps you back to the colonial era – antique furnishings, plenty of knick- knacks and oddities such as a room built around a bathtub. Café Cord (Map pp82-3; %5454 0780; Sonnenstrasse 19; h11am-at least 1am) A good stop for breakfast (served to 4pm), a light lunch or coffee, Cord also makes for an ideal first pit stop for a long night ahead on the club circuit. In summer, the super-delicious global fare tastes best on the romantic, twinkle-lit courtyard. Café Glockenspiel (Map pp82-3; %264 256; Marienplatz 28; h10am-1am Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun) Not exactly an insider tip but still much beloved for eye-level views of the Neues Rathaus glockenspiel (p76), ideally from the rooftop terrace. MAXVORSTADT & SCHWABING Alter Simpl (Map p81; %272 3083; Türkenstrasse 57, Maxvorstadt, mains €5-13; h11am-3am Mon-Thu, 6pm- 4am Fri & Sat) Thomas Mann and Hermann Hesse used to knock ’em back at this legendary thirst parlour, which is also a good place to satisfy midnight munchies as bar bites are available until one hour before closing time. The curi- ous name, by the way, is an abbreviation of the satirical magazine Simplicissimus. Eat the Rich (Map p81; %185 982; Hessstrasse 90, Maxvorstadt; h7pm-3am Tue-Sat) Strong cocktails served in half-litre glasses quickly loosen in- hibitions at this sizzling ‘meet’ market where wrinkle-free hotties mix it up with banker types halfway up the career ladder. A great spot to crash when the party’s winding down everywhere else. Food is served till 2.30am. News Bar (Map p81; %281 787; Amalienstrasse 55, Maxvorstadt; breakfast €3-10; h7.30am-2am) From tou- sled students to young managers and grey- ing professors, everybody loves their news, especially at this stylish café that also sells international papers and mags. It’s an ideal breakfast spot before embarking on a day of Pinakothek museum hopping. Brik (Map p81; %2899 6630; Schellingstrasse 24, Schwabing; sushi €5-10) This slick Japanese-style café, bar and lounge is a temple of minimal- ism and draws a hip crowd as much for the delicious sushi snacks as for the drinks. From Thursday to Sunday, DJs usually play a wicked mix of indie, techno and top 40. Black Bean (Map p81; %2867 5088; Amalienstrasse 44, Maxvorstadt; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6.30pm Sat, 10am-6.30pm Sun) If you think the only decent ‘brew’ Bavarians made is beer, train your Java radar to this regional retort to Starbucks. The organic coffee gets tops marks and so do the muffins. GÄRTNERPLATZVIERTEL & GLOCKENBACHVIERTEL Trachtenvogl (%201 5160; Reichenbachstrasse 47, Gärtnerplatzviertel; h10am-1am) At night you’ll have to shoehorn your way into this buzzy lair favoured by a chatty, boozy crowd of scene- sters, artists and students. Daytimes are mel- lower, all the better to slurp its hot chocolate menu and check out the cuckoo clocks and antlers, left over from the days when this was a folkoric garment shop. Netzer & Overrath (Map pp82-3; %2023 2840; Baaderstrasse 33, Gärtnerplatzviertel; hOverrath 9am- 11pm Sun-Wed, Netzer h8pm-3am Thu-Sat) This alt- flavoured double pub is named for two mem- bers of the German national soccer team that won the FIFA World Cup in 1974. Overrath is the quieter one, more a daytime place for reading, sipping coffee or snacking. After dark Netzer puts ‘fun’ in ‘funky’ with loud rock, Britpop, cold beer and a Fussball table. Baader Café (Map pp82-3; %201 0638; Baaderstrasse 47, Gärtnerplatzviertel; h9.30am-1am) This literary think-and-drink place gets everyone from short skirts to tweed jackets to mingle beneath the conversation-fuelling map of the world. Lines for the awesome Sunday brunch are longer than for the clubs that got everyone hungover the night before. Café am Hochhaus (Map pp82-3; %8905 8152; Blumenstrasse 29; h8pm-3am Mon-Sat) Once a stodgy café only grandmas could love, this tiny joint now heaves with libidinous hipsters decades away from retirement. Cool photo wallpaper and handpicked live DJs keep the sizzle on until the wee hours. Gay tea-dance on Sundays. K&K (%2020 7463; Reichenbachstrasse 22; h8pm- 2am) Only the name and some of the fur- nishings recall the days when this was a stuffy Austrian gourmet restaurant and not an upbeat DJ-and-drinks den. Creative lighting gives even pasty-faced hipsters a healthy glow. Zappeforster (Map pp82-3; %2024 5250; Corneliusstrasse 50, Glockenbachviertel; h9am-1am) This relaxed hang-out is known for its creamy cap- puccino, perky ice teas and warm home-made waffles served beneath groovy mountain wall- paper or on the sunny terrace. Götterspeise (Map pp82-3; %2388 7374; Jahnstrasse 30, Glockenbachviertel; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat) If the Aztecs thought of chocolate as the elixir of the gods, then this shop-cum-café must be heaven. Cocoa addicts satisfy their cravings with rave-worthy French chocolate cake, thick hot drinking chocolate, handmade ganache and even chocolate-flavoured ‘body paint’ for those wishing to double their sins. WESTEND Kilombo (Map pp82-3; Gollierstrasse 14a) Having been kicked out of its Haidhausen outpost, Christian Blau reopened his cult pub in September 2007 in multicultural Westend, which he considers Munich’s most ‘urban’ area. Check your atti- tude at the door and make new friends over reasonably priced drinks and at occasional literary readings. ENTERTAINMENT Munich’s entertainment scene is lively and multifaceted, if not particularly edgy. You can hobnob with high society at the opera or the chic P1 disco, hang with the kool kids at an indie club, catch a flick alfresco or watch one of the world’s best soccer teams triumph in a futuristic stadium. Listings E-zines useful for plugging into the local scene include www.munig.com, www.munichx .de, http://muenchen.nachtagenten.de and www.ganz-muenchen.de. All are in German only but not too hard to navigate with basic language skills. In München (www.in-muenchen.de, in German; free) Freebie mag available at bars, restaurants and shops is the most clued-in print source for what’s on in Munich. München im... Free A-to-Z pocket-sized booklet of almost everything the city has to offer. Munich Found (www.munichfound.de; €3) English- language magazine geared towards expats and visitors. Prinz München (http://muenchen.prinz.de; €1) Weekly lifestyle and entertainment glossy. Tickets & Reservations Tickets to cultural and sporting events are available at venue box offices and official ticket outlets, such as Karstadt Schwabing (Map p81; %336 659; Leopoldstrasse 82). For online bookings, try München Ticket (Map pp82-3; %5481 8181; www .muenchenticket.de, in German; Marienplatz, Altstadt), which shares premises with the tourist office. Clubbing Munich has a thriving club scene, so no mat- ter whether your musical tastes run to disco or dancehall, house or punk, noise pop or punk-folk, you’ll find some place to get those feet moving. To get the latest from the scene, peruse the listings mags or sift through the myriad flyers in shops, cafés and bars. This being Munich, expect pretty strict doors at most venues. Dress to kill to get into the fanci- est clubs. Dance floors rarely heat up before 1am, so showing up early may increase your chances of getting in without suffering the indignities of a ridiculous wait and possible rejection. If you look under 30, bring ID. Cover charges rarely exceed €15. Kultfabrik (Map p85; www.kultfabrik.info; Grafingerstrasse 6, Haidhausen) If you’ve been to Munich before, you may remember this ‘fun ghetto’ near the Ostbahnhof as Kunstpark Ost. Now the former dumpling factory has a different name but it’s still the same party mecca for libidinous kids and has more than a dozen, mostly mainstream, venues. Electro and house beats charge up the crowd at the loungy apartment 11, the Asian- themed Koi and at the small and red cocktail cantina called Die Bar. Hard rock hounds mash it up at Titty Twister, metals freaks bang on at Refugium, and nostalgic types can become disco queens at such ’70s and ’80s emporia as Noa, Rafael and Q Club. For the latest line-ups, happy hours and other useful info, check the website or look around for KuFa’s own listings mag, the free Das K-Magazin. Optimolwerke (Map p85; www.optimolwerke.de; Friedenstrasse 10, Haidhausen) Just behind KuFa, Optimol is another clubbers’ nirvana with about 15 different venues after dark. Favourites include Harry Klein (p122) and Milch & Bar, which is open daily until 6am (weekends till 9am) and the place to go when the action winds down elsewhere. Latin lovers flock to Do Brasil, while Choice-Club heats up the dance floor with black beats, chart music and house. P1 (Map p81; %211 1140; Prinzregentenstrasse 1, Lehel; hfrom 9pm daily) Is a Munich guide definitive without a nod to this playground of playboys, tabloid regulars and trust-fund babies? Not yet, perhaps. If you make it past the notorious MUNICH MUNICH 122 MUNICH •• Entertainment  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Entertainment 123 bouncers, you’ll find the crowd too busy seeing and being seen than to actually have a good time, but the décor, summer terrace and great pizza still have their appeal. Atomic Café (Map pp82-3; %228 3054; www.atomic .de; Neuturmstrasse 5, Altstadt; h10pm-4am, 9pm on con- cert nights Tue-Sun) This bastion of indie sounds with funky ’60s décor is known for bookers with a knack for catching upwardly hope- ful bands before their big break. Otherwise it’s party time; long-running ‘Britwoch’ is the hottest Wednesday club in town. Also check out the in-house label Panatomic (www.panatomic.de). Backstage (Map p80; %126 6100; www.backstage089 .de; Helmholzstrasse 18, Neuhausen; h7pm-3am Mon-Wed, 8pm Thu, 10pm Fri & Sat) Refreshingly nonmain- stream, this groovetastic boîte has a chill night beer garden and a shape-shifting line-up of punk, nu metal, hip-hop, dance hall and other alt sounds, both canned and live. The Free & Easy festival (bands, movies and comedy) in August and September enjoys cult status among clued-in locals. Erste Liga (Map pp82-3; %260 8403; www.ersteliga .com; Thalkirchner Strasse 2, Glockenbachviertel; h11pm- 5am Thu-Sat) You better be a top-rated ‘player’ to make it into hot ’n’ heavy ‘Premier League’. Beyond the velvet rope awaits a stylish base- ment club dressed in shock green where high- profile DJs whip the crowd into a frenzy with sassy electro. The cool dance floor lights up with LEDs. Harry Klein (Map p85; %4028 7400; www.harryklein club.de; Friedenstrasse 10, Haidhausen; h11pm-7am Fri & Sat) An amazing alchemy of electro sound and visuals, this party palace gets a punky-funky crowd fired up for extended dance-a-thons. Great place to crash in the wee hours. Major cool factor: live video art mixes projected onto the walls. Rote Sonne (Map pp82-3; %5526 3330; www.rote -sonne.com; Maximiliansplatz 5, Altstadt; h11pm Thu-Sun) Named for a 1969 Munich cult movie starring ‘It-Girl’ Uschi Obermaier, the Red Sun is a fiery nirvana for fans of electronic sounds. An international roster of DJs from the US, Berlin, Paris, Glasgow and elsewhere keeps the wooden dance floor packed and sweaty until the sun rises. Substanz (Map pp82-3; %721 2749; www.substanz -club.de; Ruppertstrasse 28, Ludwigsvorstadt; h8pm-2am Sun-Thu, 8pm-3am Fri & Sat) About as alternative as things get in Munich, this low-key, beery lair gets feet moving with house to indie to soul, tickles your funny bones during the English Comedy Club (first Sunday of the month) and brings out edgy wordsmiths for the SRO (standing-room-only) Poetry Slam (second Sunday). 8 Seasons (Map pp82-3; %2429 4444; www.8-sea sons.com; Maximilianstrasse 2, Altstadt; h6pm-4am Tue, 7pm-4am Thu, 10pm-6am Fri & Sat) This flirty danc- ing den has a famous after-work party on Tuesdays (one free drink and a buffet), a chill rooftop terrace, a sensuous designer look and changing DJs that spin Happy Feet–inducing house and electro beats. Jazz & Blues Jazzclub Unterfahrt (Map p85; %448 2794; www .unterfahrt.de; Einsteinstrasse 42, Haidhausen; h7.30pm- 1am Sun-Thu, 7.30pm-3am Fri & Sat) Like a fine wine, Unterfahrt only gets better with age. The crowd defines the word ‘eclectic’ and so do the acts, which range from old bebop to edgy experimental. The Sunday open jam sessions are legendary. A must for Blue Note fans. Jazzbar Vogler (Map pp82-3; %294 662; Rumfordstrasse 17, Gärtnerplatzviertel; h7pm-1am Mon-Sat) This int- imate watering hole brings some of Munich’s baddest cats to the stage. You never know who’ll show up for Monday’s blues-jazz-Latin jam session. Cover (none to €7) is added to your final bill, allowing you to listen in for a bit before committing to staying. Café am Beethovenplatz (Map pp82-3; %5440 4348; Goethestrasse 51, Ludwigsvorstadt) Downstairs at the Hotel Mariandl, this is Munich’s oldest music café with an eclectic menu of sounds ranging from bossa nova to piano to Italian canzoni (songs). Reservations advised, especially for the Sunday jazz brunch. Hide-Out (Map p80; %169 668; Rotkreuzplatz 2a, Neuhausen; h8pm-3am Tue-Sat) This blues joint draws national and international talent but keeps cover charges wallet friendly (free to MUNICH’S MONTY PYTHONS Amid all the culture, need a little comic relief? If you happen to be in town on the first Sunday or Monday of the month, head to Substanz (left), where stand-up (and often stand-out) comics imported from the UK spin everyday material into comedic gold. Tickets cost €18 and shows usually sell out, so score yours online at www.english comedyclub.de. MOVIES UNDER THE STARS Screenings under the stars have become a popular summer tradition with classic and contem- porary flicks spooling off in various locations around town. Come early to stake out a good spot and bring pillows, blankets and snacks. Kino am Königsplatz (Map p81; www.kinoopenair.de; Königsplatz, Maxvorstadt) In late July, cineastes gather in front of the majestic neoclassical setting of this central square to take in the latest blockbusters. Kino am Pool (off Map p81; www.kinoampool.de; Traubestrasse 3, Schwabing) Splash around in the municipal Ungererbad swimming pool, then stay around for the latest flick screened poolside throughout July and August. Kino, Mond & Sterne (Map pp78-9; www.kino-mond-sterne.de; Seebühne im Westpark, Am Westpark, Sendling) The repertory at this heavenly alfresco amphitheatre runs mostly towards Hollywood classics, including several in English. Take the U6 to ‘Westpark’. €15). It’s fun any day, but Thursday’s jam sessions are legendary. Classical Music & Opera Münchner Philharmoniker (%480 980; www.mphil.de; Rosenheimer Strasse 5, Haidhausen) Munich’s premier orchestra regularly performs at the Gasteig cultural centre (p103). Book tickets early as performances usually sell out. Check the web- site for upcoming public rehearsals costing just €8 (free for students, tickets available one hour before the concert). Bayerische Staatsoper (Map pp82-3; %2185 1920; www.bayerische.staatsoper.de; Max-Joseph-Platz 2, Altstadt) Considered one of the best opera companies in the world, the Bavarian State Opera puts the emphasis on Mozart, Strauss and Wagner but doesn’t shy away from early baroque pieces by Monteverdi and others of the period. In summer it hosts the prestigious Opernfestspiele (p110). Performances are at the Nationaltheater in the Residenz and often sell out. The opera’s ‘house band’ is the Bayerisches Staatsorchester (Map pp82–3), in business since 1523 and thus Munich’s oldest orchestra. It’s currently under the capable helm of Kent Nagano, who occasionally shakes up the tried-and-true repertory with contemporary and avant-garde works. BR-Symphonieorchester (%5900 4545; www.br -online.de/kultur-szene/klassik/pages/so) Charismatic Lithuanian maestro Mariss Jansons has rejuvenated this orchestra’s play list and often performs with its choir at such ven- ues as the Gasteig (Map p85) and the Prinzregententheater (Map p85). Staatstheater am Gärtnerplatz (Map pp82-3; %2185 1960; www.staatstheater-am-gaertnerplatz.de; Gärtnerplatz 3, Gärtnerplatzviertel) Munich’s ‘other’ opera house takes a more populist approach and also presents musicals and light opera, usually in German. Cinemas For show information check any of the listings publications. Admission usually ranges from €6.50 to €8.50, though one day a week, usu- ally Monday or Tuesday, is Kinotag (cinema day) with reduced prices. Movies presented in their original language are denoted in list- ings by the acronym ‘OF’ (Originalfassung) or ‘OV’ (Originalversion); those with German subtitles are marked ‘OmU’ (Original mit Untertiteln). The following theatres all show English-language movies. Atelier (Map pp82-3; %591 918; Sonnenstrasse 12, Ludwigsvorstadt) Art-house cinema in a backyard; Monday is ‘MonGay’ with homo-themed releases. Atlantis (Map pp82-3; %555 152; Schwanthalerstrasse 2, Ludwigsvorstadt) SNEAK A PEEK AT A PREVIEW If you want to be the first to see tomor- row’s blockbuster, head to these theatres for a sneak preview, which is when studios gauge a movie’s popularity before its gen- eral release. You won’t know which film you’ll see, but the cheaper tickets, cool short films, lack of advertising and general suspense make sneaks a super-popular night out. Cinema has them Friday at 11pm, Atlantis Wednesday at 9pm and Mathäser that night at 10.30pm. For more, see www .sneak-muenchen.de (in German). MUNICH MUNICH 124 MUNICH •• Entertainment  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Shopping 125 ‘OUT’ & ABOUT IN MUNICH Munich’s gay and lesbian scene is the liveliest in Bavaria but tame if compared to Berlin, Cologne or Amsterdam. The rainbow flag flies especially proudly along Müllerstrasse and the adjoining Glockenbachviertel and Gärtnerplatzviertel. To plug into the scene, keep an eye out for the freebie mags Our Munich and Sergej, which contain up-to-date listings and news about the community and gay-friendly establishments around town. Another source is www.gaymunich.de, which has a small section in English. For help with lodging, check out www.gaytouristoffice.com. Max & Milian (Map pp82-3; %260 3320; Ickstattstrasse 2; h10.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) is Munich’s bastion for queer lit, nonfiction and mags. Sub (Map pp82-3; %260 3056; Müllerstrasse 43, Glockenbachviertel; h7-11pm) is a one-stop service and information agency; lesbians can also turn to Lesbenberatungsstelle (Map pp82-3; %725 4272; Angertorstrasse 3, Gärtnerplatzviertel; h2.30-5pm Mon & Wed, 10.30am-1pm Tue). The festival season kicks off in April with the Verzaubert (www.verzaubertfilmfest.com) film series featuring the best of international queer cinema at Atelier (p123). The main street parties are Christopher Street Day (p110) and the Schwules Strassenfest (www.schwules-strassenfest.de) held in mid-August along Hans-Sachs-Strasse in the Glockenbachviertel. During Oktoberfest (p108), lesbigay folks invade the Bräurosl beer tent on the first Sunday and Fischer-Vroni on the second Monday. Regular gay fun events include MonGay cinema at Atelier (p123) and the Gay Tea-Dance on the second Sunday of the month at the Café im Hochhaus (p120). Bars & Clubs Morizz (Map pp82-3; %201 6776; Klenzestrasse 43) This mod Art Deco–style lounge with red- leather armchairs and mirrors for posing and preening goes for a more moneyed clientele and even gets the occasional local celebrity drop in. The service is impeccable, the food’s good, and the wine and whisky list keeps everyone happily pickled. Packed on weekends. Mathäser Filmpalast (Map pp82-3; %515 651; www .mathaeser.de; Bayerstrasse 5, Altstadt) Modern 14-screen multiplex in a former beer hall. Museum-Lichtspiele (Map p85; %482 403; www .museum-lichtspiele.de; Lilienstrasse 2, Haidhausen) Cult cinema with wacky interior and weekly screenings of Rocky Horror Picture Show (Saturday nights) and Luchino Visconti’s Death in Venice (Sunday mornings) Cinema (Map p81; %555 255; www.cinema-muenchen .de; Nymphenburger Strasse 31, Neuhausen) Cult cinema with all films in English, all the time. Theatre Bayerisches Staatsschauspiel (%218 501; www .bayerischesstaatsschauspiel.de; Max-Joseph-Platz 1, Altstadt) This leading ensemble has a bit of a conser- vative streak but still manages to find relev- ance for today’s mad mad world in works by Shakespeare, Schiller and other tried-and- true playwrights. Performances are in the Residenztheater (Map pp82–3), the Theater im Marstall (Marstallstrasse, Map pp82–3) and the theatre in the Haus der Kunst (Map p81). Münchner Kammerspiele (Map pp82-3; %2333 7000; www.muenchner-kammerspiele.de; Maximilianstrasse 26-28, Altstadt) Just as venerable as the Staats- schauspiel, this stage has an edgier, more populist bent and delivers provocative in- terpretations of the classics as well as works by contemporary playwrights. Performances are in a beautifully refurbished Art Nouveau theatre at Maximilianstrasse and in the Neues Haus (Map pp82–3), a new glass cube at Falckenbergstrasse 1. Touring Broadway productions and shows like Stomp or Blue Man Group find a tem- porary home at the Deutsches Theater (Map pp82-3; %5523 4444; Schwanthalerstrasse 13, Ludwigsvorstadt), while the Komödie am Max II (Map p85; %221 859; Maximilianstrasse 47, Lehel) is the place to catch lightweight comedies, often starring German TV actors. Spectator Sports FC Bayern München (%6993 1333; www.fcbayern. de) This is one of the most successful soccer clubs in history and has won the German cup and other championships more often than any other team. Home games are at the Allianz Arena (p104) and usually sell out far in advance. Tickets can be ordered online. Watch the team training for free at Säbener Strasse 51 (Map pp78–9) in Harlaching. Nil (Map pp82-3; %265 545; Hans-Sachs-Strasse 2) A construct in wood and marble, this chill café- bar is open till 3am and a good place to crash after the party has stopped elsewhere. If you need a reality check, a plate of its kick-ass goulash soup should do the trick. NY Club (Map pp82-3; %6223 2152; Sonnenstrasse 25; hFri & Sat) After a complete revamp, it’s again ‘Raining Men’ at Munich’s hottest gay dance temple where you can party away with Ibiza-style abandon on the cool, back-lit main floor. Die Carmens (Map pp82-3; %2300 0496; Theklastrasse 1; hFri & Sat) This sizzling venue for dancing, cruising and drinking attracts the entire GLBT community with quirky décor and an upbeat music mix of ‘80s, charts and club sounds. Transgendered folks get in for free. Teddy Bar (Map pp82-3; %260 3359; Hans-Sachs-Strasse 1) Presided over by cuddly Fridl, this is a friendly, been-there-forever kind of bar for ‘bears’ and friends that still manages to stay current and cool. The crowd is generally older and you can actually hear yourself talk. Happy hour till 9pm Monday to Thursday. Bau (Map pp82-3; %269 208; Müllerstrasse 41) Bilevel bar that’s party central for manly men with nary a twink in sight but plenty of leather, Levis and uniforms. The foam parties in the small cellar darkroom are legendary. Deutsche Eiche (Map pp82-3; %231 1660; Reichenbachstrasse 13) A Munich institution, this was once filmmaker Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s favourite hang-out. It’s still a popular spot and packs in a mixed crowd for its comfort food and fast service. Bei Carla (Map pp82-3; %227 901; Baaderstrasse 16) This energised scene staple behind the drab façade has been keeping lesbians happy since, well, like forever. It’s a popular spot with a good mixed-age crowd, lots of regulars and snack foods if you’re feeling peckish. Take the U1 to Mangfallplatz, then bus 139 to Säbener Strasse. The Allianz Arena is also home turf for Munich’s ‘other’ soccer team, the peren- nial underdogs TSV 1860 (%01805-601 860; www .tsv1860.de). They only play in Germany’s second league but still have an enormously loyal fan base. The team trains at Grünwalder Strasse 114 (Map pp78–9), also in Harlaching (take tram 25 to Südtiroler Strasse). Call ahead for training times. SHOPPING Munich is a fun and sophisticated place to shop that goes far beyond chains and de- partment stores. If you want those, head to Neuhauser Strasse and Kaufingerstrasse. East of there, Sendlinger Strasse has smaller and somewhat more individualistic stores, includ- ing a few resale and vintage emporia. To truly ‘unchain’ yourself, though, you need to hit the Gärtnerplatzviertel and Glock- enbachviertel, the bastion of well-edited indie stores and local designer boutiques. Hans- Sachs-Strasse and Reichenbachstrasse are especially promising. Maxvorstadt, especially Türkenstrasse, also has an interesting line- up of stores with stuff you won’t find on the high street back home. Shoe fetishistas can indulge their lusts on Hohenzollernstrasse in Schwabing. Maximilianstrasse, meanwhile, is the catwalk for the Prada and Escada brigade, especially in the new, minimalist Max- imilianhöfe in the Bürkleinbau just past the Nationaltheater. Snob shoppers will also be happy on Theatinerstrasse (home of the Fünf Höfe arcade), on Residenzstrasse and Brienner Strasse. Here’s a quick and dirty selection of shops you might find of interest: Beauty & Nature (Map pp82-3; %2423 1233; 1st fl, Westenrieder Strasse 35, Altstadt; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) All natural, all the time, is the motto at this drugstore that stocks only top-performing products by Dr Hauschka, Logona, Lavera and other Euro brands, usually at much lower prices than found overseas. Ask about its manicures and beauty treatments. Servus Heimat (Map pp82-3; %2429 4780; Brunnstrasse 3, Altstadt) Everything a gift shop should be – fun, happy to see you and stocked with unique souvenirs that play with Bavarian symbols like tees emblazoned with Empress MUNICH MUNICH 126 MUNICH •• Getting There & Away lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com AROUND MUNICH •• Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land 127 Sisi or the Olympic Stadium outline. Campy, tongue-in-cheek chic. Sebastian Wesely (Map pp82-3; %264 519; Rindermarkt 1, Altstadt; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) If you’re in the market for traditional souv- enirs, this little shop (in business since 1557) has floor-to-ceiling shelves of carved angels, pewter tankards, beer steins, carved figurines and handmade candles. The saleswomen are quick with a smile and happy to help. Siebter Himmel (Map pp82-3; %267 053; Hans-Sachs- Strasse 17, Glockenbachviertel; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am- 6pm Sat) Cool hunters will be in seventh heaven when browsing the assortment of fashions and accessories by hip indie labels like Pussy de Luxe, Indian Rose and Religion, all sold at surprisingly reasonable prices. Complement your new outfit with shoes from Schuhhimmel across the street. Flohmarkt Riem (Map pp78-9; %9605 1632; Willy- Brandt-Platz, Riem; h6am-4pm Sat) Like urban archaeologists, you have to sift through trash and detritus to unearth treasure at Bavaria’s largest flea market, far out of town by the trade fair grounds in Riem. Take the U2 to Messestadt-Ost. Loden-Frey (Map pp82-3; %210 390; Maffeistrasse 5-7, Altstadt) Stocks a wide range of Bavarian wear. Expect to pay at least €300 for a good leather jacket, pair of lederhosen or dirndl dress. Holareidulijö (Map p81; %271 7745; Schellingstrasse 81, Maxvorstadt; hnoon-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) If Loden-Frey’s price tags are too steep, check this out. The name is a phonetic yodel, approp- riate for a store that carries preloved leder- hosen and other folkwear in good condition. Click, click, click... is the sound of cus- tomers flipping through the well-edited selection of new and used CDs and vinyl at Optimal (Map pp82-3; %268 185; Kolosseumstrasse 6, Glockenbachviertel; h11am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) and Resonanz (Map pp82-3; %2020 5205; Auenstrasse 4, h11am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat), Munich’s best purveyors of indie sounds with handy listening stations. For classical music and jazz recordings there’s no better selection – and more knowledgeable staff – than at Ludwig Beck (Map pp82-3; %2369 1441; Marienplatz 11) on the 4th floor of the eponymous department store. Other shops: Foto-Video-Media Sauter (Map pp82-3; %5515 0450; Sonnenstrasse 26, Altstadt) The largest camera and video shop in town. Porzellan Manufaktur Nymphenburg Altstadt (Map pp82-3; %282 428; Odeonsplatz 1, Altstadt; h10am- 6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat); Schloss Nymphenburg (Map p80; %179 1970; Nördliches Schlossrondell 8, Nymphen- burg; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri) Traditional and contemporary porcelain masterpieces by the royal manufacturer. GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Munich’s sparkling Flughafen München (Munich International Airport; %975 00, flight inquiries 9752 1313; www.munich-airport.de) is easy to navigate and – within Germany – second in importance only to Frankfurt for international and domestic flights. The main carrier is Lufthansa, but other international airlines serving Munich include Air France, British Airways, Delta, easyJet, El Al, Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) and United Airlines. For contact and flight information see p321. Bus The Busabout (p323) hop-on hop-off bus service comes through Munich on the North- ern Loop and the Southern Loop with pickup and dropoff at Wombat’s City Hostel (Map pp82–3). Europabus (p325) links Munich to the Romantic Road. For details of fares and time- tables inquire at EurAide (p76) or Deutsche Touring (Map pp82-3; %8898 9513; www.touring.com; Hirtenallee 14) near the Hauptbahnhof. BEX BerlinLinienBus (%01801-546 436; www.berlin linienbus.de) runs daily buses between Berlin and Munich (one way/return €45/84, 81⁄2 hours), via Ingolstadt, Nuremberg, Bayreuth and Leipzig. Buses depart from bus platform 5 on Arnulfstrasse, north of the Hauptbahnhof. In spring 2009 a new central bus station is expected to open near Hackerbrücke. Car & Motorcycle Munich has autobahns radiating in all direc- tions. Take the A9 to Nuremberg, the A8 to Salzburg, the A95 to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the A8 to Ulm or Stuttgart. All major car-hire companies have offices at the airport. Sixt (Budget), Hertz, Avis and Europcar have counters on the 2nd level of the Hauptbahnhof. Train Train services from Munich are excellent. There are swift direct connections to such key destinations in Bavaria as Nuremberg (€45, one hour), Regensburg (€22, 11⁄2 hours) and Würzburg (€59, two hours). Going to Freiburg (€78, 41⁄2 hours) or Baden-Baden (€72, four hours) requires a change, usually in Mannheim. There are also frequent direct serv- ices to Berlin (€105, 53⁄4 hours), Frankfurt (€81, three hours) and Cologne (€119, 41⁄2 hours); and to other European cities, such as Vienna (€72, 41⁄4 hours), Prague (€52, six hours) and Zürich (€61, 41⁄4 hours). There’s also a night train to Paris (price varies, 10 hours). GETTING AROUND Central Munich is compact enough to explore on foot. To get to the outlying suburbs make use of the public transport network, which is extensive and efficient. To/From the Airport Munich’s airport is about 30km northeast of the city and linked by S-Bahn (S1 and S8) to the Hauptbahnhof. The trip costs €8.80, takes about 40 minutes and runs every 20 minutes from 3am until around 12.30am. The Lufthansa Airport Bus (%323 040) shut- tles at 20-minute intervals between the air- port and Arnulfstrasse at the Hauptbahnhof between 5.10am and 9.40pm. The trip takes about 45 minutes and costs €10 (return €16). A taxi from the airport to the Altstadt costs about €55. Car & Motorcycle Driving in central Munich can be a nightmare; many streets are one way or pedestrian only, ticket enforcement is Orwellian and parking is a nightmare. Car parks (indicated on the tourist office map) charge about €1.50 to €2 per hour. Public Transport TICKETS & FARES The Munich region is divided into four zones with most places of visitor interest (except Dachau and the airport) conveniently clus- tering within the ‘white’ Innenraum (inner zone). Short rides (Kurzstrecke; four bus or tram stops; or two U-Bahn or S-Bahn stops) cost €1.10, longer trips cost €2.20. Children aged between six and 14 pay a flat €1.10 re- gardless of the length of the trip. Cut down costs by buying a strip card (Streifenkarte) of 10 tickets for €10.50, then stamp one strip for short trips or two strips for longer ones. Day passes are €5 for individuals and €9 for up to five people travelling together. Three-day passes are €12.30/21. There’s also a weekly pass called IsarCard, which costs €15.80 but is only valid from Monday to Sunday – if you buy on Wednesday, it’s still only good until Sunday. For details about the Bayern-Ticket, see p328. Bikes costs €2.50 and may only be taken aboard U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains, but not during the 6am to 9am and 4pm to 6pm rush hours. BUYING & USING TICKETS Bus drivers sell single tickets and day passes but tickets for the U- /S-Bahn and other passes must be purchased from vending machine at stations or MVV offices. Tram tickets are available from vending machines aboard. Tickets must be stamped (validated) at sta- tion platform entrances and aboard buses and trams before use. The fine for getting caught without a valid ticket is €40. Taxi Taxis cost €2.70 at flag fall (€3.70 if ordered by phone), plus €1.25 to €1.60 per kilome- tre and are not much more convenient than public transport. Luggage is charged at €0.50 per piece. Ring a taxi on %216 10 or %194 10. Taxi ranks are indicated on the city’s tourist map. AROUND MUNICH STARNBERGER FÜNF-SEEN-LAND pop 85,000 / elev 584m Once a royal retreat and still a popular place of residence with the rich and famous, the Fünf-Seen-Land (Five Lakes District) is set in a glacial plane and makes a fast and easy escape from the urban bustle of Munich. Munich’s excellent public transport system is composed of buses, trams, the U-Bahn and the S-Bahn. It’s operated by MVV, which maintains offices in the U-Bahn stations at Marienplatz, Hauptbahnhof, Sendlinger Tor, Odeonsplatz, Olympiazentrum, Karlsplatz and Münchner Freiheit. Staff hand out free network maps and timetables, sell tickets and answer questions. Automated trip planning is available by phone (%4142 4344) and online (www.mvv-muenchen.de). The U-Bahn and S-Bahn cease opera- tion at around 12.30am Monday to Friday and 1.30am on weekends when night buses (Nachtbusse) ferry home night owls and shift workers. MUNICH MUNICH 128 AROUND MUNICH •• Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com AROUND MUNICH •• Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land 129 The largest lake is the narrow 21km-long Starnberger See, nicknamed ‘Munich’s bathtub’ and ringed by a necklace of resorts, includ- ing Starnberg, Berg, Pöcking-Possenhofen, Feldafing, Tutzing, Bernried and Seeshaupt. The road linking all these communities can get terribly clogged, especially on summer weekends. It also rarely skirts the lake shore, much of which is privately owned. There is, however, a paved trail dedicated to biking and walking along the shore. Circumnavigating the entire lake (50km) takes about 12 hours on foot and four hours by bike. The other lakes – Ammersee, Pilsensee, Wörthsee and Wesslinger See – are smaller and offer more secluded charm. Swimming, boating and windsurfing are popular activities on all lakes, and the district is also crisscrossed by a 250km network of bike paths and 185km of hiking trails. This area has long been a favourite with the Bavarian nobility. The 19th-century ‘fairy- tale’ king Ludwig II – ‘Kini’ to his adoring fans – had a soft spot for the Starnberger See. That is until he mysteriously drowned in the lake on the eastern shore. Ludwig’s bosom buddy, Empress Sisi of Austria (1837–98), spent many a summer staying in Possenhofen on the western shore; her descendent Otto von Habsburg – head of the Austrian royal family – still lives in nearby Pöcking. The present head of the Wittelsbach family, the art-loving Duke Franz, still uses Ludwig’s former palace in Berg. Information Tourist Information Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land (%08151-906 00; www.sta5.de, in German; Wittelsbach- erstrasse 2c, Starnberg; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri Nov-May, also 9am-1pm Sat May-Oct) Regional tourist office just north of Bahnhofsplatz, with a free room-finding service and trip planning to other lake towns. The website has links to all tourist offices in the local communities. Sights STARNBERG The town of Starnberg is the northern gateway to the lake district but lacks any lasting allure, so most people head straight on to the other towns. The train station is just steps from the cruise-boat landing docks, pedal-boat hire, the regional tourist office and the Museum Starnberger See (%08151-772 132; www.museum-starn berger-see.de, in German; Possenhofener Strasse 5, enter on Bahnhofsplatz; adult/child €1.50/0.50; h10am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun). You may have to duck your head when touring this 400-year-old farmhouse that offers a glimpse into yesteryear’s life on the lake and also boasts a precious Ignaz Günther sculpture in the little chapel. By the time you’re reading this, a modern extension showcasing a fancy royal barge and an exhibit on its construction, use and purpose should have opened. Starnberg is just 30 minutes by S6 from Munich (€4.40 or four strips on the Streifenkarte). BERG It’s about an hour’s walk (4km) from Starnberg to Berg on the northeastern lake shore, where King Ludwig II spent summers on Schloss Berg and where he and his doctor died in 1886 under mysterious circumstances. The palace and its lovely gardens still belong to the Wittelsbach family and are closed to prying eyes, but you’re free to walk through its wooded park to the Votivkapelle (Votive Chapel; %08151-5276; ad- mission free; h9am-5pm Apr-Oct). Built in honour of Ludwig and shrouded by mature trees, this neo-Romanesque memorial chapel overlooks the spot in the lake – marked by a simple cross, AROUND MUNICH 0 10 km 0    6 miles Aichach Scheyern Altomünster A9 Petershausen Freising Markt Indersdorf Munich International Airport A9 MUNICH A8 A92 Schleissheim Dachau Wesslinger Gauting Wörthsee See Fürstenfeldbruck Puchheim A96 A95 A99 Vaterstetten Pilsensee Seefeld Herrsching Starnberg Oberhaching Sauerlach A8 Ammersee Pöcking Andechs Diessen Feldafing Tutzing Ilkahöhe Bernried Weilheim Berg Possenhofen Münsing Wolfratshausen Starnberger See Oberambach Ambach Seeshaupt Holzkirchen Geretsried Peissenberg Penzberg Bad Tölz Waakirchen A95 Tegernsee erected years later by his mother – where Ludwig’s dead body was supposedly found. POSSENHOFEN & FELDAFING Austrian empress Sisi, cousin of Ludwig II, spent her childhood summers at Schloss Possenhofen, a chunky cream-coloured pal- ace on the western shore of Lake Starnberg. It’s since been converted into condos but the grounds are now a huge leisure park with lake access, volleyball nets and barbecue pits that’s swarmed with stressed-out city folk on hot summer weekends. To learn a bit more about the Sisi mystique, swing by the new Kaiserin- Elisabeth-Museum (%08151-164 79; Schlossbergstrasse 2; admission free; h2-6pm Fri-Sun Jun-early Oct or by ap- pointment). It’s a small exhibit in the grand sur- roundings of the former royal waiting rooms of the historic Bahnhof Possenhofen, now the S-Bahn station. Sisi was so taken with the lake’s beauty that she returned as an adult to summer in what is now the Hotel Kaiserin Elisabeth (%08157-930 90; Tutzinger Strasse 2), in the hamlet of Feldafing a couple of kilometres south. A larger-than-life sculpture in the garden shows her with a book in relaxed repose, gazing back at the hotel. You can eat in the rustic Ludwigstüberl (p131) or the silver-service restaurant where aproned waiters serve the ‘Sisi Menu’. Fans of Art Nouveau villas should take a spin around Feldafing, which also has a popu- lar swimming beach, the Strandbad Feldafing (%08157-8200; adult/child/student €4.50/2.50/3.50; h10am-10pm daily mid-Mar–mid-Oct, 10am-10pm Thu- Sun mid-Oct–mid-Mar). From the Strandbad, it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the Glockensteg, the place to catch a historical ferry called Plette (%0171-722 2266; adult/child/student €4/1/3; hMay–mid-Oct in good weather) to the Roseninsel. Sisi and Ludwig fre- quently rendezvoused on this romantic island, where Ludwig also received other luminaries, Richard Wagner among them. Neglected for a century after the king’s death, the island, rose garden and his summerhouse, called the Casino (adult/under 18 yr/child €3/free/2; hnoon-6pm Tue-Sun May–mid-Oct), have been restored and are now open to the public. A small exhibit in the garden house (same hours, included in admission) has displays of about 6000 years of the island’s history. Possenhofen and Feldafing are both stops on the S6 from Munich (€6.60 or six strips of a Streifenkarte, 40 minutes). BUCHHEIM MUSEUM A bronze statue of a BMW sprouting octopus- like tentacles is the mind-teasing overture to the full symphony of art and objects at the amazing Buchheim Museum (%08158-997 00; www .buchheimmuseum.de; Am Hirschgarten 1, Bernried; adult/ child/student/family €8.50/3.50/3.50/18, combined boat & museum ticket €16; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am- 5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar), right on the Starnberger See about 1km north of the town of Bernried. The modernist structure by Olympia Stadium architect Günter Behnisch houses the pri- vate collection of Lothar-Günther Buchheim, author of Das Boot, the novel that inspired the famous film. The heart and soul of the museum are German Expressionist works by members of Die Brücke (The Bridge), an artist group founded in Dresden in 1905. The bright, emotionally coloured canvasses by Ludwig Kirchner, Emil Nolde, Max Beckmann, Otto Dix and Karl Schmidt-Rottluff marked the beginning of modern art in Germany. Other galleries present a fascinating hotchpotch of global arts and crafts, which justifies the museum’s subtitle ‘Museum of the Imagination’. You’ll see handsome Art Nouveau vases, African masks, Japanese woodcuts, jewellery from India and a stun- ning collection of some 3000 paperweights. The most scenic approach to the museum is by an hour-long boat trip (combination ticket with museum €17, no concessions; h3 sailings daily except Mon May-Oct) from Starnberg. Alternatively, take the RegionalBahn (RB) to Tutzing, then take either bus 9614 to the ‘LVA Höhenried’ stop near the museum (weekday only) or another RB train to Bernried, then walk north for about 15 minutes. ANDECHS Founded in the 10th century, the hilltop Kloster Andechs (Andechs Monastery; %08152-3760; www.andechs.de; Bergstrasse 2, Andechs; admission free) has long been a place of pilgrimage, although these days more visitors come to quaff the Benedictine monks’ fabled brews, which rank among Bavaria’s finest. Religious pilgrims are drawn by several rel- ics in the monastery’s possessions, including a piece said to have come from Christ’s crown- of-thorns. Some of the offertory candles in the holy chapel stand over 1m tall and are among Germany’s oldest. The church itself boasts a rococo riot of frescoes, sculptures and a sophisticated altar designed by Munich MUNICH MUNICH 130 AROUND MUNICH •• Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com  AROUND MUNICH •• Dachau 131 court architect François Cuvilliés. In June and July the Carl Orff Festival celebrates the Bavarian composer of Carmina Burana (see the boxed text on p147) with a series of concerts; he’s buried inside the church. Most visitors to the ‘Holy Mountain’, as Andechs is known, really come to worship at the Braustüberl, the monastery’s beer hall and garden. The resident monks have been brewing beer for over 500 years and serve a deliciously sudsy Helles, a rich and velvety Doppelbock Dunkel and fresh, unfiltered Weissbier. Summer weekends are so insanely busy it’s easy to forget that you’re in a religious institution, pious as your love for the brew may be... For a behind-the-scenes look at the monks’ operations, take a guided tour of the brewery (adult/child €4/2; h11am Tue-Thu May–mid-Oct) or the church (admission free; hnoon Mon-Sat May–mid-Oct). Andechs is served three times daily (twice on Sunday) by bus 951 from the S-Bahn sta- tion in Starnberg Nord (S6; 27 minutes) and the one in Herrsching (S5; 10 minutes). DIESSEN To see one of the area’s most magnificent baroque churches, you must travel to Diessen, some 11km west of Andechs, which is home to the Marienmünster (%08807-948 940; h8am- noon & 2-6pm). Part of a monastery complex, this festive symphony in white stucco, red marble and gold leaf involved some of the most accomplished artists of the 18th cen- tury, including the architect Johann Michael Fischer; François Cuvilliés, who designed a high altar; and Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, who was responsible for an altar painting. Diessen also has the small Carl-Orff-Museum (%08807-919 81; Hofmark 3; adult/concession €2/1; h2- 5pm Sat, Sun & holidays), with a biographical ex- hibit, a cabinet of instruments and a video room where you can watch performances of his work. Activities From Easter to mid-October, Bayerische- Seen-Schifffahrt (BSS; %01851-8061; www.seenschiff fahrt.de) runs scheduled boat services on the Starnberger See and the Ammersee – a lei- surely way to explore the region. In Starnberg, boats leave from the landing docks just south of the main station. For the Ammersee, Herrsching is the most convenient starting point. BSS also offers narrated tours of both lakes, varying from one to four hours and costing from €8 to €15. If cruises are too tame, consider taking a spin around the lake under your own steam. Boat hire is available on the Starnberger See, the Ammersee and the Wörthsee. In Starnberg, Paul Dechant (%08151-121 06; Hauptstrasse 20), near the train station, has row- ing, pedal and electric-powered boats for €13 per hour. In Herrsching, near Andechs on the Ammersee, Alfred Schlamp (%08152-969 533; Summerstrasse 30) charges €7 per hour for his pedal and rowing boats. If the weather plays along, there’s no bet- ter way to explore the area than by bicycle. Radhaus Starnberg (%08151-167 14; Wittelsbacherstrasse 20; per day €10) in Starnberg and Fahrradgeschäft Nandlinger (%08152-1266; Mühlfelder Strasse 5; per day €10) in Herrsching have a decent selection of two wheelers. Bike It (%08151-746 430; Bahnhofstrasse 1) in Starnberg runs guided bike tours from €25. There’s a famous in-line skating stretch on the eastern shore between Berg and Ambach. There’s plenty of good hiking as well. A de- lightful half-day trip starts in Tutzing and goes via a moderate ascent to the Ilkahöhe, which is a 730m hill with a restaurant (opposite), beer garden and panoramic lake views. Sleeping DJH Hostel Possenhofen (%08157-996 611; www.pos senhofen.jugendherberge.de, in German; Kurt-Stieler-Strasse 18, Pöcking-Possenhofen; dm €21, s/d €29/50; pi) A jewel among DJH hostels, this mod- ern, spacious and well-run contender sits next to Schloss Possenhofen and a popular swimming beach. Hotel Alte Linde (%08157-933 180; www.linde -wieling.de, in German; Wieling 5, Feldafing; s €55-88, d €80- 110; pn) Run with panache and personal- ity, this congenial inn welcomes guests with modern country-style elegance. The nicest rooms have unique features such as sleeping alcove or four-poster beds below a painted ceiling. Enjoy a cold one in the beer garden, then savour delicious modern, organic twists on classic Bavarian in the restaurant, where mains cost about €10 to €18. Schlossgut Oberambach (%08177-9323; www .schlossgut.de; Oberambach 1, Münsing; s/d €120/240; pnais) Dreams will be sweet in the ecofriendly and charmingly Mediterranean rooms of this certified ‘biohotel’ with private lake access. Renewable sources provide all the energy and there’s also a wonderful Ayurvedic spa to recharge your own batteries before feeding stomach and soul with big-flavoured, contemporary country cooking (mains €12-24). Eating Ludwigstüberl (%08157-930 90; Tutzinger Strasse 2, Feldafing; Brotzeit €6-9, mains €10-20; hdinner Wed-Mon, lunch Sun) On cold nights it’s a treat to sit near the fireplace in this cosy tavern, digging into a soulful menu ranging from salads to roast beef. Bookings are recommended. It’s part of the Kaiserin Elisabeth Hotel; don’t confuse this place with the stuffy hotel restaurant. Forsthaus Ilkahöhe (%08158-8242; Auf der Ilkahöhe, Tutzing; mains €16-23; hWed-Sun) It’s hard to tell what’s more appealing: the gourmet regional cuisine or the idyllic hilltop setting, with spectacular views of the Starnberger See and the Alps. Come for a full meal or just a foamy Mass in the beer garden, open daily in fine weather. Braustüberl (%08152-376 261; Bergstrasse 2, Andechs; mains €3-15; h10am-8pm) Food may seem an after- thought here, but the hearty roast pork, leber- käse and home-made cheeses actually go a long way to keeping your balance. Klostergasthof (%08152-930 90; Bergstrasse 9; mains €7.50-17; h10am-11pm) For a more sophisticated experience, make reservations here. Dechant’s Fischladen (%08151-121 06; Hauptstrasse 20, Starnberg; mains €8-12; h10am-7pm Tue-Thu, 10am- midnight Fri) Clued-in fish fans book a table in the tiny restaurant attached to this place to enjoy the day’s catch. Getting There & Away Starnberglies25kmsouthwestofcentralMunich– a half-hour’s journey by car or S-Bahn. The S6 links Munich with Starnberg and Possenhofen, Feldafing and Tutzing on the western lake shore. The S5 goes from Munich to Herrsching am Ammersee in about 45 minutes. DACHAU %08131 / pop 40,100 / elev 508 Mention Dachau and most people shudder at the thought of the atrocities committed in the infamous Nazi concentration camp, now visited by more than 800,000 people each year. Few of them realise that there was a town of Dachau some 1100 years before the camp was built. Fewer still ever make it to the town’s little Altstadt with its historic buildings, a pretty Renaissance palace and garden. And hardly anyone knows that in the late 19th to the early 20th century, Dachau had a thriving artists colony, whose leading lights included Carl Spitzweg and Max Liebermann. Even today, about 100 artists live in Dachau. Orientation & Information Dachau’s Bahnhof is about 3.5km southwest of the concentration camp memorial and about 1km southeast of the Altstadt, where you’ll find the tourist office (%752 86; www.dachau.info; Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse 1, Dachau; h9am-1pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 2-6pm Thu). Aside from dispensing maps, bro- chures and information, staff at the office also rent out audioguides (€2.50) for self-guided Altstadt tours taking about 90 minutes. Sights DACHAU CONCENTRATION CAMP MEMORIAL The way to freedom is to follow one’s orders; exhibit honesty, orderliness, cleanliness, sobriety, truthfulness, the ability to sacrifice and love of the Fatherland. Inscription from the roof of the concentration camp at Dachau Dachau was the Nazis’ first concentration camp; it was built by Heinrich Himmler in March 1933 and became the prototype for all other camps. Originally meant to corral political prisoners, it also held thousands of Jews after the 1938 pogroms. All in all, some 32,000 people died at the camp, but it was not specifically designed as a ‘death camp’ such as Auschwitz. Instead it was a ‘slave la- bour camp’, where most deaths resulted from disease, exhaustion and starvation. Budget two to three hours to fully absorb the haunt- ing exhibits. Children under 12 may find the experience too disturbing. Information The memorial (%669 970; www.kz-gedenkstaette -dachau.de; Alte Römerstrasse 75, Dachau; admission free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) is in the northeastern corner of Dachau. Map pamphlets in about a dozen languages are available for €0.50. For more in-depth descriptions, pick up the brochure Dachau Concentration Camp (€2) or the de- tailed catalogue (€15). A 22-minute English- language documentary runs at 11.30am and 3.30pm. No refreshments are available at the memorial, so bring at least something to drink, especially in summer. MUNICH MUNICH 132 AROUND MUNICH •• Dachau  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com AROUND MUNICH •• Schleissheim 133 The Memorial You enter the compound through the Jourhaus, originally the only entrance. Set in wrought iron, the chilling slogan ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ (Work Sets You Free) hits you at the gate. Beyond here is the former roll-call square, where the prisoners were counted every morning and evening and assigned to their work details. On your right is the former utility build- ing, now the main documentation centre, which details what happened to prisoners at the camp. Newcomers were registered in the shunt room, where they also had to surrender all their personal clothes and belongings. The ‘baths’ were indeed initially used to disinfect the new inmates and shave their heads. After 1941, though, the SS converted the room into a torture and execution chamber; the whip- ping block is still there. Executions also took place in the bunker courtyard behind the exhibit building. The bunker itself was the notorious camp prison where inmates were tortured to extort ‘confessions’; some of the cells are too small for prisoners to even sit. Inmates were housed in large barracks, now demolished, which used to line the main road north of the roll-call square. Two have been reconstructed; of the other 32 you can only see the outlines. Built for 6000 prisoners, they housed more than 30,000 at the time of libera- tion in 1945. At the end of the central camp road, be- hind the former barracks, is a cluster of reli- gious memorials that includes a Catholic chapel, a Protestant church and a Jewish memorial. A Russian Orthodox chapel is a little off to the side, en route to perhaps the camp’s most haunting site: the crematorium in the northwest corner, outside of the camp boundaries. Also here is a gas chamber, disguised as a shower room, but never used. Instead, prisoners marked for gassing were sent to other camps. Tours To maximise your educational experience, we highly recommend taking a guided tour, but be absolutely sure to join tours author- ised by the memorial staff, such as those listed below. Dachauer Forum (%996 880; ticket €3; h1.30pm Tue-Sun, noon Sat & Sun May-Sep 1.30pm Thu, Sat & Sun Oct-Apr; duration 21⁄2hr) Volunteer-run English- language tours. Buy tickets at white containers along the entranceway. Also available are half-hour introductions for €1.50. These are held at 12.30pm Tuesday to Sunday and 11am Saturday and Sunday from May to September, and 12.30pm Thursday, Saturday and Sunday October to April. Self-guided audio tour (adult/child €3/2; duration up to 2hr) If you prefer to go at your own pace, pick up one of these, also available at the containers. Radius Tours & Bikes (%5502 9374; www.radius munich.com; adult/child under 14 €21/10.50; h9.15am & 12.30pm Tue-Sun Apr–mid-Oct, 11am Jun, Jul & mid- Oct–Mar; duration 5hr) English-language tours leaving from opposite track 32 in the Hauptbahnhof. Tickets in- clude public transport from Munich; bookings are advised. New Munich Tours (adult/student €19/15; duration 3hr; hnoon Fri, Sat & Sun) English-language tours departing from Marienplatz. Tickets include public transport. SCHLOSS DACHAU First built as a medieval castle for local no- bles, Schloss Dachau (%879 23; Schlossstrasse 7, Dachau; adult/under 18 yr/concession €2/free/1; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar) was transformed into a monolithic complex in the 16th century for the Wittelsbach dukes, who in turn made it their summer palace. The residence then fell into disrepair and just one of its four wings survived, namely the baroque number you see today. Behind its creamy façade is a festival hall with a magnificent wooden Renaissance ceiling that glorifies the Wittelsbach rul- ers. This is also the delightful setting of the Dachauer Schlosskonzerte, which is a classical concert series (tickets about €17 to €28). Behind the Schloss, the baroque Hofgarten (admission free; h8am-dusk, latest 8pm) harbours an orchard, a rose garden and lovers’ paths shel- tered by a leafy canopy. The terrace of the Schlosscafé overlooks this oasis of calm. GEMÄLDEGALERIE DACHAU The work of Carl Spitzweg, Max Liebermann and other Dachau School artists can be seen in the Gemäldegalerie Dachau (%567 50; www.dachauer -galerien-museen.de; Konrad-Adenauer-Str 3; adult/concession €3.50/2; h11am-5pm Tue-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun), next to the tourist office. Climb up to the roof terrace for a view of the city and the landscape that inspired them. Getting There & Around Dachau is about 16km northwest of central Munich. The S2 makes the trip from Munich Hauptbahnhof to the station in Dachau in 22 minutes. You’ll need a two-zone ticket (€4.40) or four strips of a Streifenkarte, including the bus connection. Here change to bus 720/722 to get to the Altstadt and the Schloss and bus 726 (direction ‘Saubachsiedlung’) to get to the camp. Show your stamped ticket to the driver. By car, follow Dachauer Strasse straight out to Dachau and follow the Altstadt or KZ-Gedenkstätte signs. SCHLEISSHEIM %089 / pop 5700 / elev 486m The northern Munich suburb of Schleissheim is renowned for its three palaces and an avia- tion museum. A combination ticket to the palaces is €6/5 adult/concession. Children under 18 years are free. The crown jewel of the palatial trio is the Neues Schloss Schleissheim (New Palace; %315 8720; www.schloesser-schleissheim.de; Max-Emanuel-Platz 1, Schleissheim; adult/concession €4/3; h9am-6pm Apr- Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar, closed Mon). This pompous pile was dreamed up by Prince-Elector Max Emanuel in 1701 in anticipation of his pro- motion to emperor. It never came. Instead he was forced into exile for over a decade and didn’t get back to building until 1715. Cash flow problems required the scaling back of the original plans, but given the palace’s huge dimensions (the façade is 330m long) and opulent interior, it’s hard to imagine where exactly they cut back. Some of the fin- est artists of the baroque era were called in to create such eye-candy sights as the cer- emonial staircase, the Victory Hall and the Grand Gallery. There are outstanding pieces of period furniture, including the elector’s four-poster bed, amazing intricately inlaid tables, and a particularly impressive ceiling fresco by Cosmas Damian Asam. The palace is home to the Staatsgalerie (State Gallery), a selection of European baroque art drawn from the Bavarian State Collection, including works by such masters as Peter Paul Rubens, Antonis van Dyck and Carlo Saraceni. The most impressive room here is the Grand Galerie. While construction was ongoing, the elec- tor resided in the fanciful hunting palace of Schloss Lustheim (%315 8720; adult/concession €3/2; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar, closed Mon), on a little island in the eastern Schlosspark, providing an elegant setting for porcelain masterpieces from Meissen. Nearby, the Altes Schloss Schleissheim (%315 8720; Maximilianshof 1; adult/concession €2.50/1.50; h9am- 6pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar, closed Mon) is a mere shadow of its Renaissance self. It houses paint- ings and sculpture on religious culture and festivals all over the world, including an im- pressive collection of more than 100 crèches. Only a short walk away, the Flugwerft Schleissheim (%315 7140; www.deutsches-museum .de/flugwerft; Effnerstrasse 18; adult/concession/family €5/3/10; h9am-5pm), the aviation branch of the Deutsches Museum (p101), makes for a nice change of pace and aesthetics. Spirits will soar at the sight of the lethal Soviet MiG-21 fighter jet, the Vietnam-era F-4E Phantom and a replica of Otto Lilienthal’s 1894 glider, with a revolutionary wing shaped like Batman’s cape. Another highlight is the open workshop where you can observe the restoration of his- torical flying machines. Kids can climb into an original cockpit, land a plane and even get their ‘pilot’s license’. To get to Schleissheim, take the S1 (di- rection: Freising) to Oberschleissheim, then walk along Mittenheimer Strasse for about 15 minutes towards the palaces. On weekdays only, bus 292 goes to the ‘Schloss Lustheim’ stop. By car, take Leopoldstrasse north until it becomes Ingolstädter Strasse. Then take the A99 to the Neuherberg exit, at the south end of the airstrip. FREISING %08161 / pop 43,000 / elev 448m For a thousand years Freising was the spir- itual and cultural centre of southern Bavaria. Now near the airport, it is a bedroom com- munity for Munich but retains the feel of a traditional market town. In 1821 the bishop bowed to the inevitable and moved his seat to Munich. Freising sank in the ecclesiastical ranking but hung onto its religious gems, the main reasons to visit today. The town was a major way station in the life of Pope Benedict, who studied and taught at the university, was ordained as a priest and later even became archbishop here. Orientation & Information The bulk of Freising’s sights are in the Altstadt on or around the Lehrberg, site of the cathe- dral complex and more popularly known as the Domberg. For information, visit the tourist office (%541 22; www.freising.de, in German; Marienplatz 7; tours per adult/concession/family €6.50/4/12; h9am- 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun). Staff run several guided tours in English, including one that follows in the steps of the Pope. Check for specific times. MUNICH MUNICH 134 AROUND MUNICH •• Freising  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  135 Sights Freising’s charming Altstadt is crisscrossed by a tangle of lanes lined by baroque and Renaissance town houses, immaculately restored and clean almost to a fault. Looming over the old town is the Domberg, a hub of religious power with the twin-towered Dom St Maria und St Korbinian (%1810; h8am-noon & 2-5pm, to 6pm May-Oct) as its focal point. The restored church interior is a head-turning masterpiece by the Asam brother megastars, whose baroque frescoes grace the most pious ceilings of Bavaria. Remnants from the Gothic era include the choir stalls and a Lamentation of Christ painting in the left aisle. The altar painting by Rubens is a copy of the original in the Alte Pinakothek museum in Munich. Don’t miss the crypt, not so much to view Korbinian’s mortal remains as to admire the forest of pillars, no two of which are carved alike. The famous Bestiensäule (Beast Pillar) features an epic allegory of Christianity fight- ing the crocodile-like monsters of evil. East of the Dom are the cloisters, whose halls drip with fancy stucco and a thousand years’ homage in marble plaques to the bish- ops of Freising. The baroque hall of the cathe- dral library (h2-3pm Mon-Fri mid-May–Oct) shines with the gold-and-white fantasies of François Cuvilliés, designer of the magnificent Cuvilliés Theatre in Munich. At the western end of the hill is the Dom Museum Freising (%487 90; Domberg 21; adult/child €2/1; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun). The largest ecclesi- astical museum in Germany, it has a Fort Knox–worthy collection of bejewelled gold vessels, reliquaries and ceremonial regalia as well as some exquisite nativity scenes. Pride of place goes to the Lukasbild, a 12th-century Byzantine icon set in its own diminutive sil- ver altar. Upstairs you’ll discover works by Rubens and other masters. Southwest of the Domberg, a former Benedictine monastery hosts, among other university faculties, a respected college of beer brewing. Also here is the Staatsbrauerei Weihenstephan, (%5360; www.weihenstephaner.de; Alte Akademie 2; tours 60/120min €6/9; h10am Mon-Wed, 1.30pm Wed), a brewery founded in 1040, making it the world’s oldest that’s still in operation. Guided tours trace 1000 years of brewery his- tory in the museum, which is followed by a behind-the-scenes spin around the ‘hallowed halls’ and concluded with a beer tasting (you get to keep the glass). Bookings are advised. Tours include a pretzl and a €2 voucher good for souvenirs or another brew served in the beer garden and the vaulted cellar of the Bräustüberl. Getting There & Away Freising is about 35km northeast of Munich at the northern terminus of the S1 (€6.60, 40 minutes) and is also frequently served by faster regional trains (€6.60, 25 minutes). The Domberg and Altstadt are a 10-minute walk from the train station. By car, take Leopoldstrasse north and turn right on Schenkendorfstrasse. Then take the A9 north and the A92 to the Freising-Mitte exity it is a listed building and houses the Federal Office for Migration and Refugees. Aerial view of the KdF Town, 1937. 9 KdF-Town The KdF Town, a recreational area managed by the NS organization Kraft durch Freude (Strength through Joy), was opened in 1937. Folklore and funfair events took place in the wooden buildings to entertain visitors to the Nazi Party Rallies. The buildings burned down during World War II. Housing estates and sports fields now cover this area. Prisoner-of-war camp in Langwasser, 1940. 10 Camp Zone A camp zone was established adjacent to the March Field, southeast of the Nazi Party Rally Grounds. This is where the SA, SS, HJ and other Nazi organizations housed their participants. From 1939 on, parts of the camp zone served as a prisoner-of-war camp, packed with an average number of about 30,000 people from various nations. Camp inmates worked for the City of Nuremberg on the construction sites of the Nazi Party Rally Grounds until 1943. Several thousand of these prisoners died because of insufficient nutrition provided and inadequate accommodation in shacks and tents. On 17/18 April, 1945, the US Army liberated the POW camp Nuremberg-Langwasser. After 1945, the camp was used first as an American internment and international refugee camp. Later it became a Federal reception camp for foreigners. From the 1950s on, the suburb of Langwasser was established on the camp area and on other parts of the former Nazi Party Rally Grounds. Back to Jump Navigation Electronic Communication Data Protection to the White House to tell Nixon his support in Congress had collapsed, they wou