Showing posts with label Nymphenburg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nymphenburg. Show all posts

Nazi-era sites around Munich (5)

Staatskanzlei and Munich War Memorial
The Bavarian State Chancellery houses the personal offices of the chancellery staff. It was erected from 1989 to 1993 around the central dome of the former Bavarian Army Museum, which had been built in 1905 at the site of the Hofgartenkaserne barracks and was demolished in World War II.  With reference to Leo von Klenze's neighbouring Festsaalbau of the Munich Residenz, the new building of the Bavarian Army Museum was also influenced by the Italian High Renaissance, but shows the monumentalisation of the late Historicism. The architect was Ludwig Mellinger. The west side of the central building with six columns completes a three-part entablature with limestone figures in the centre and four trophies. The east façade, originally facing no road, was made comparatively restrained. Under the dome was a central room, a "Hall of Fame". This space takes the two upper floors with a height of 32 meters. After its destruction in World War II, the two side wings were torn off, the central building was for a ruin for decades. By 1982, however, the 52 meter high dome with its copper coverage was restored.  The remnants of some renaissance arcades of the Hofgarten in the north were integrated to the building. The two new wings are covered in full length with glazed stairs in the style of Jacob's Ladders, giving the impression of ship stairs. At the request of then-Prime Minister Max Streibl an intimate space with wood panelling and furnishings, ("Zirbelstube") was inserted after the reception room of the Prime Minister, who caused a stir because of high costs. The building comprises about 8,800 m². To the east of the building the stream Köglmühlbach flows past above ground. Before the west side of the courtyard is the war memorial and the equestrian statue for Duke Otto I Wittelsbach.
 
From 1905-1945, this housed the Bavarian Army Museum, founded by Ludwig II. Destroyed during the war with only the dome remaining, it has since been rather impressively reconstructed and is now used by the Bavarian government. In front of the building, beneath a Travertine slab, is a crypt commemorating the unknown soldier.

 During the November 1918 Revolution, and two photographs from memorial ceremonies in December 1924 and November 1931.
The tomb of the Unknown Soldier then and today. Originally erected in front of the former Army Museum (now the Bavarian State Chancellery) in the Hofgarten in 1924 to commemorate the 2 million dead of the Great War, the 'Dead Soldier' sculpted by Bleekers now dedicated to the dead of both world wars. It was also used as a backdrop for nationalist and militaristic propaganda during the Nazi era. Annual remembrance days for war heroes were organised here by both the Wehrmacht and the Nazi party from 1934 onwards. This war memorial modelled on a megalithic tomb was already one of the most visited war memorials in Germany even during the Weimar Republic. Its centrepiece is a crypt in which Bernhard Bleeker’s idealised figure of the “dead soldier” is laid out, representing the 13,000 Munich soldiers who fell in the First World War and whose names were once engraved on the walls of a further walkway that circumscribed the memorial. Damaged during the Second World War, the war memorial was restored on the orders of the American military government, albeit without the names of the 13,000 dead. In the 1950s an inscription was added commemorating the fallen soldiers and civilian victims of the years 1939 to 1945. This dedication reflects the desire of the population to continue commemorating the war dead even after 1945, although its portrayal of both the city and its population exclusively as victims represents a very one-dimensional view. To this day military ceremonies in honour of the dead are still held regularly at the war memorial.
 
How it appeared after the war

Directly in front is the Memorial for the Resistance
Leo Kornbrust’s memorial was unveiled on 24 July 1996 by the Bavarian Minister president Dr. Edmund Stoiber. It is engraved on one side with a line of block letters reading "Zum erinnern zum gedenken" ("To Recall and to Commemorate") under which is a reproduction of a handwritten letter by Generalfeldmarschall Erwin von Witzleben who was arrested the day after the attempted July plot. 
Wir wollen hier nicht urteilen über die verschiedenen möglichen Staatsformen, nur eines will eindeutig und klar herausgehoben werden: jeder Mensch hat einen Anspruch auf einen brauchbaren und gerechten Staat, der die Freiheit des Einzelnen als auch das Wohl der Gesamtheit sichert.
Freiheit der Rede, Freiheit des Bekenntnisses, Schutz des einzelnen Bürgers vor der Willkür verbrecherischer Gewaltstaaten.
Das sind die Grundlagen des neuen Europa.
(We will not pass judgement on the various possible forms of government as only one will be raised clear and unambiguously: every person has a right to a useful and just state that guarantees the freedom of the individual and to he general welfareFreedom of speech, freedom of religion, the protection of individual citizens from the arbitrary will of criminal regimes of violenceThese are the foundations of the new Europe.)
During his trial he was forced to appear in court without his belt and false teeth. On August 8, 1944 he was executed by being hanged by piano wire from a meat hook.

ϟϟ-Deutschland-Kaserne
ϟϟ-Deutschland-Kaserne
These barracks were primarily used by the ϟϟ-Standarte 1 Deutschland until the end of World War II. They had taken part in the annexation of Austria and later the occupation of the Sudetenland before contributing to the annexation of Bohemia and Moravia in March, 1939. It was ordered by Hitler that it should be expanded to a division but the war interrupted this plan. It took part in the invasion of Poland attached to Panzer-Division Kempf and following that campaign it was used to form ϟϟ-Division Verfügungstruppe (later renamed Das Reich). After the war the UNESCO used the buildings to accommodate dispersed persons.

Funk-Kaserne

。 Die Funkkaserne ist eine ehemalige militärische Liegenschaft im Münchener Stadtteil Freimann. Als städtebauliches Projekt wird das Gelände seit 2005 für eine Wohn- und Gewerbebebauung vorbereitet. Inhaltsverzeichnis 1 Luftwaffenkaserne und Resettlement-Center 2 Pionierkaserne der Bundeswehr 3 Zwischennutzung und Künstlerkolonie 4 Städtebauliche Konversion 5 Bundespolizei und denkmalgeschützte Gebäude 6 Einzelnachweise Luftwaffenkaserne und Resettlement-Center Die Funkkaserne wurde im Zuge der Aufrüstung der Wehrmacht von 1936 bis 1938 als Luftwaffen-Nachrichtenkaserne errichtet. Den Zweiten Weltkrieg überstanden die Gebäude weitgehend ohne Schäden. In den Nachkriegsjahren bis Mai 1955 betrieben die US-Armee und die UN Relief and Rehabilitation Administration (UNRRA) in der Funkkaserne das größte süddeutsche Resettlement-Center für Displaced Persons, also eine Übergangsunterkunft für vorwiegend osteuropäische ehemalige Zwangsarbeiter, die während des Zweiten Weltkriegs nach Deutschland verschleppt worden waren. Pionierkaserne der Bundeswehr Von 1956 bis 1992 war das Gelände eine Kaserne des Heeres der Bundeswehr. Trotz der alleinigen Nutzung als Pionierkaserne behielt man den Namen "Funkkaserne" bei. Zuletzt war sie Standort das Pionierbataillons 210, des Pionierlehrbataillons 220 – als Ausbildungseinheit der wenige Kilometer entfernt in der damaligen Prinz-Eugen-Kaserne angesiedelten Pionierschule – und der Panzerpionierkompanie 560. Dem Pionierbataillon 210 (schweres Pionierbataillon des II. Korps) war als Besonderheit ein Bohrzug eingegliedert, der mit seinen Bohrfahrzeugen im Kriegsfall Sprengschächte herstellen sollte. Nach Gerüchten war er für den Einsatz von angeblich bei der US-amerikanischen 10th Special Forces Group in der Flint-Kaserne in Bad Tölz gelagerten Atomminen eingeplant.[1] Die militärische Nutzung der Funkkaserne endete mit einem Abschlussantreten im März 1992 in Anwesenheit des damaligen Staatssekretärs und späteren Bayerischen Ministerpräsidenten Günther Beckstein. Die Funkkaserne war die erste größere Münchner Bundeswehr-Liegenschaft, die im Zuge der Truppenreduzierung aufgegeben wurden. Ab 1993 unterlag das Gelände der zivilen Bundesverwaltung.[2] Zwischennutzung und Künstlerkolonie Bereits ab 1993 wurden die Gebäude des Kasernengeländes für unterschiedliche zivile Nutzungen freigegeben. Dazu zählten Wohnungen für Studierende der Universität der Bundeswehr, das Vorbereitungsbüro des Ökumenischen Kirchentags in München, Räume der Kunstakademie, Konzert- und Veranstaltungshallen sowie – in wachsender Menge – Künstlerateliers. Unter dem Namen Domagkateliers wurden bis zu 300 Künstlerateliers angeboten, woraus die Nutzer den Anspruch ableiteten, die größte Künstlerkolonie Deutschlands darzustellen. Weil eine rasche Bebauung des Geländes mit Wohnungen und Gewerbeeinheiten geplant war, wurde die Ateliernutzung zunächst bis 2003, dann bis 2007 befristet und dauerte in letzten Gebäuden schließlich bis in das Jahr 2011 hinein, als auf einem ein Großteil des Geländes bereits Abrissarbeiten vollzogen wurden. Die Nutzer der Ateliers versuchten durch öffentliche Appelle, den Erhalt einer größeren Zahl von Gebäuden und der Künstlerkolonie zu erreichen.[3][4] Städtebauliche Konversion Baufeld im Jahr 2012 Am 29. Juni 2005 erwarb die Stadt München vom Bund einen Großteil des ehemaligen Kasernengeländes. Nach dem siegreichen Entwurf eines Architektenwettbewerbs (Architekten Ortner & Ortner für Bauplanung, Topotek1 für Grünplanung) wurde das Gelände für 1600 Wohnungen, gewerbliche Einheiten mit rund 1000 Arbeitsplätzen, eine zentrale Grünanlage und einen „Künstlerhof“ mit 6000 Quadratmetern Atelierflächen überplant. Gemeinsam mit angrenzenden, ebenfalls neu zu überplanenden Flächen der Telekom und des Siemens-Konzerns betraf das „Städtebauliche Projekt Domagkstraße“ eine Fläche von 62,6 Hektar. Nach einer Kanal- und Altlastensanierung sowie einem Rückbau des aus Militärzeiten vorhandenen Eisenbahnanschlusses begannen Ende 2010 die Abbrucharbeiten für die ehemaligen Kasernengebäude, eine Fertigstellung der Neubebauung ist für das Jahr 2016 vorgesehen.[5][6] Bundespolizei und denkmalgeschützte Gebäude Ein 8,72 Hektar großes Gebiet in der nordöstlichen Ecke des ehemaligen Kasernengeländes wurde von der städtebaulichen Umwandlung ausgenommen und verblieb im Eigentum des Bundes. Es wird weiterhin von der Bundespolizei für Unterkunfts- und Dienststellengebäude genutzt und soll zugunsten zusätzlicher Wohngebäude verdichtet werden. In diesem Geländeteil befinden sich die ehemalige Haupteinfahrt des Geländes sowie mehrere Gebäude, die militärisch zuletzt vom Pionierbataillon 210 genutzt worden waren: Die Kfz-Werkstatt (Gebäude 77) und Fahrzeugunterstellhallen (Gebäude 78), die Unterkunftsgebäude der ersten und fünften Kompanie sowie des Bohrzugs“ der ersten Kompanie (Gebäude 8, 7 und 6) sowie die denkmalgeschützten Gebäude 1 (ehemaliges Stabsgebäude), 3 und 4 (beides Garagengebäude) sowie 5 (altes Wach- und Arrestgebäude). Außerdem umfasst das Gelände der Bundespolizei den früheren Kasernensportplatz.
 
Dating from 1936, now used by the police.

Just outside the reichsadler remains, shorn of its swastika (although traces are left).


Adolf-Hitler-Kaserne
Formerly the Karl-Liebknecht-Kaserne, this is where Hitler stayed after returning to Munich after the Great War until 1920. It was named after him in 1934. Much of it was destroyed during the Second World War and the remaining buildings used for residential purposes.

 Nazi Housing Development
The government of Chancellor Brüning in 1931 established the small settlement programme in order "to promote the population becoming settled in the country to reduce unemployment and to facilitate sufficient living conditions for the unemployed." The future settlers were to be involved in the establishment of their own homes and gardens and small animal husbandry to improve their supply in the economic crisis. The Nazis took over the model because it fit into their anti-modern and anti-urban ideology. 
According to Geoff Walden of Third Reich in Ruins, this first building at Kurfürstenplatz "was likely part of a Third Reich neighbourhood housing development (Siedlung) built in 1938. The Siedlung included a savings bank and a police office, and this building may have been one of those." friend_of_Obersalzberg, who contributed the photo on the left, confirms that it was built in 1938 by architect Hans Atzenbeck.
At that time it was necessary to build new healthy and cheap apartments in Munich. It has 5 entrances and so 5 living units. In the first floor (Erdgeschoß) were stores. In the courtyard was a fountain with a sculpture of a drumming Hitlerjunge. The swastikas and the fountain were removed after war.
Google Street view actually blocks the image of the entire building! Google isn't known for respecting privacy, so could this have been pushed by the authorities given the remaining Nazi-era reliefs?
 February 26, 1938
The coat of arms of Munich on the building with its form under the Nazis and today. On the right the Nazi version reappears on the clothing of a neo-Nazi in Munich.
Better photos of the building can be found on the the Munich thread at Axis History.
These siedlung on Klugstrasse all have bizarre Third Reich, astrological, masonic, and other obscure symbols over every door frame leading inside. To me, it's incredible that they continue to survive and form the entrances to people's homes:

The swastika is still faintly visible...

...whilst this one, dated 1933, is obscured by the shaking hands

Here the hakenkreuz has been erased, but the Nazi salutes allowed to remain!

Another excised swastika that completed the DAF symbol

And yet a couple have had their bizarre symbols completely removed.



The left image shows swords and a steel helmet whilst the one on the right reminds me of the lesson from the Disney wartime cartoon Education for Death...


Mustersiedlung Ramersdorf
Die Mustersiedlung Ramersdorf im Münchner Stadtteil Ramersdorf sollte kurz nach der Machtübernahme des NS-Regimes im Rahmen der"Deutschen Siedlungsausstellung" 1934 als beispielhafte Verkörperung des nationalsozialistischen Siedlungsgedankens präsentiert werden. Innerhalb kürzester Zeit wurden unter der Leitung des Wohnungsbaureferenten und Architekten Guido Harbers 192 Einfamilienhäuser mit 34 unterschiedlichen Bautypen errichtet. Das Ensemble ist in sich geschlossen und hat gemäß der Gartenstadtidee zahlreiche Grünflächen.  Als ausführende Architekten waren unter anderem Friedrich Ferdinand Haindl, Sep Ruf, Franz Ruf, Lois Knidberger, Albert Heichlinger, Max Dellefant, Theo Pabst, Christoph Miller, Hanna Loev und Karl Delisle für die Bauten verantwortlich. Die erhoffte propagandistische Wirkung der Siedlung blieb jedoch aus, da unter anderem die für damalige Verhältnisse großzügige Wohnfläche von 56 bis 129 m2 sowie einzelne modernistische Bauelemente kritisiert wurden.  Nach Ende der Siedlungsausstellung wurden die Häuser als Eigenheime verkauft. Im Jahr 1935 wurde mit der Gustav-Adolf-Kirche in der Siedlung ein protestantischer Kirchenneubau eröffnet. 
 
The sample settlement at Ramersdorf was opened on 9 June 1934 to serve as a model for future settlement projects in Germany. Designed by Guido Habers, this siedlung on Stephanskirchener Straße provided 192 homes with 34 different building types and planned as an alternative to the multi-storey urban houses. The ensemble is self-contained and , pursuant to the garden city idea numerous green spaces.  As executive architects , among others , Friedrich Ferdinand Haindl , Sep Ruf , Franz Ruf , Lois Knidberger , Albert Heichlinger , Max Dellefant , Theo Pabst, Christoph Miller, Hanna Loev Delisle and Charles were responsible for the buildings. The hoped-for propaganda effect of the settlement did not materialise because, among other things, the generous living space for those days 56-129 m2 and individual modernist elements were criticized.  After the exhibition, the settlement houses were sold as homes. In 1935 a Protestant church building was opened with the Gustav Adolf Church in the settlement as shown in the then-and-now photos. A number of frescoes remain, barely, from 1934:
 
St. Christopher on Stephanskirchener Straße 20
 
Above a door on Schlechinger Weg 4 is this coat of arms; the former owner was Paerr and therefore he chose a play on words in the arms of a bear- Bärenwappen. Above one can still make out the inscription "G. P. 1934".
 At Schlechinger Weg 8 is this image of a German African colonial soldier. The original owner had served in Deutsch-Südwestafrika and designed the crest himself before giving it to the artist, Günther Graßmann.
 
Another by Günther Graßmann at Schlechinger Weg 10. The pointer of the sundial is at the centre of a sun, with the dial in the form of an harp. As can be seen in the 1934 photo, the bottom of the fresco depicts a sailing ship. Graßmann was involved in another sundial for the church of St. Raphael, München-Hartmannshofen; I think he was involved in its stained glass, as well: http://www.sankt-raphael-muenchen.de/sonstiges.html
 
Remarkably, the Adolf-Hitler-Brunnen still remains intact at Herrenchiemseestraße 44. On the base of the fountain a swastika with a lime leaf in raised relief was etched and at the back was the following inscription:
 DIESER·BRUNNEN·
WURDE·UNTER·DER HITLERLINDE·
UND·GLEICHZEITIG·MIT·DIESER·GESETZT·
ZUR·ERÖFFNUNG·DER·DEUTSCHEN·SIEDLUNGS·AUSSTELLUNG·
MÜNCHEN·1934
The blocks of stone with the swastika and lime leaf above the water spout were removed after 1945. as was the term " Hitler Linde". This fountain is one of the 75 drinking water wells in Munich.
 
Another water well at Törwanger Straße 2. In 1938 a small mosaic was set up as seen in the photo with a swastika by the painter Günther Grassmann. The mosaic has been coated with a thin layer of plaster and is left empty, the well no longer in operation.

Siedlung on Erich Kastner str.
This example of a siedlung consists of an huge building and on all four corners there are Third Reich reliefs.
The swastikas have been wiped out from the bottom of each relief
 
Similar decorative façade at the corner of Karl - Theodor and Mannheimer streets:
93 Winzererstr.
Another surviving building from the Nazi era with its iconography intact (with the colour still maintained) complete with reichsadler dating from 1936 found by odeon at Axis History Forum.
 
From 1933 to 1937 the Nazis set up Reichskleinsiedlung here at Am Hart, Neuherberg and Kaltherberg after which time the housing policy increasingly turned back to the multi-storey, which could be accomplished more efficiently and cheaper.


Schloss Nymphenburg
 
Within walking distance of Heydrich's house is this, the biggest Baroque palace in Germany, and site of the 1938 Nazi production of "De Nacht van de Amazonen". The photo on the left shows the site during the so-called Day of German Art Festival during the weekend of July 14-16, 1939 in Munich.
 
Schloss Nymphenburg unterm Hakenkreuz and today
Rarely seen amateur colour footage filmed in Friedberg and Munchen in 1938 showing the night masquerade "De Nacht van de Amazonen." The "Burgmaister" of Munchen obtained from the local "Gaulaiter" (the city's Nazi Party chief) the permission for the girls on the chariots to parade with sexy costumes.

Former home of Reinhard Heydrich

This is a photo from my last visit of Reinhard Heydrich's home outside Munich at Zuccalistraße 4 near Nymphenburg castle. Of this house his wife Lina wrote "When unexpected visitors arrive, the architecture of the house makes it possible for us to make everything disappear in time. Our dog gives us plenty of warning."
At the end of the war, Heydrich's widow returned to the island of Fehmarn with her surviving children. She owned and ran a hotel and restaurant. The Finnish theatre director and poet Mauno Manninen (1915-1969) was a frequent guest at the hotel. He took pity on the difficulties she experienced as a result of her infamous name and offered to marry her to enable her to change it. They married in 1965 but did not live together. She died on August 14, 1985.
See the special Prague section on Operation Anthropoid


Grünwalder Stadion 

 
Grünwalder Stadion einst und jetzt. It was built in 1911 and was the home ground for TSV 1860 München until 1995. 
 
Aerial photograph of the stadium from 11 March 1943. The central photograph shows the result of two air raids on July 19, 1944 leaving a crater circled in yellow and today.
TSV 1860 München giving the Hitler salute on the left, and playing an amateur team composed of members of the ϟϟ. 
 
During refurbishment of the dilapidated stadium, an unexploded Second World War bomb was found buried within the pitch.
video 
The stadium is immortal for serving as the site of The Philosophers' Football Match, a Monty Python sketch originally featured in the second Monty Python's Fliegender Zirkus depicting a football match in the Olympiastadion at the 1972 Munich Olympics between philosophers representing Greece and Germany.

Auferstanden aus Ruinen

Hackerbrücke after the war and today

The Staatsbibliothek on Ludwigstraße then and now.

What had been an air protection shelter on Hotterstraße was converted in 1947 to an hotel in the town centre.

American troops on Dachauerstr. on April 30, 1945 and the site today.
Completed in 1932, the post office at Goetheplatz after the war and today.
The city brook that run down Baaderstraße and Ickstattstraße shown in 1946 has long dried up.

Sebastiansplatz in 1946 and today
Das Paläontologische Museum in der Nähe des Königsplatzes ist das Ausstellungsforum der Paläontologie und Geobiologie München. Es zeigt imposante Skelette aus der Entwicklungsgeschichte der Wirbeltiere. Neben dem größten Dinosaurier Bayerns zählen hierzu Skelette von Reptilien aus der Zeit vor den Dinosauriern, Flugsaurier, Fischsaurier sowie Säugetiere aus der jüngeren Erdgeschichte. Hier ist vor allem das Skelett des berühmten Mühldorfer Ur-Elefanten zu nennen, aber auch diverse Vertreter des Eiszeitalters wie Säbelzahntiger, Höhlenbär und Riesenhirsch. Des weiteren erwartet die Besucher aktuelle Sonderausstellungen zu wechselnden Themen, die exotische Tierwelt in Bayern vor 16 Millionen Jahren sowie eine „Reise“ durch 4 Milliarden Jahre Leben. Weitere Highlights sind das Münchner Exemplar des Urvogels Archaeopteryx und der kleinste Dinosaurier Bayerns Compsognathus. Das Paläontologische Museum München entführt Sie in die faszinierende Welt der Urzeit.
The former site of the Palaeontological Museum at Neuhauser Straße 51 after being completely destroyed during the April 24th 1944 bombing; 80% of all its fossils were destroyed as well. After the war it was relocated here at Richard-Wagner-Straße 10.
The interior of the Paläontologische Museum in 1949, after the interior was severely damaged from an high-explosive bomb
 
Building the U-Bahn station at the corner of Lindwurmstraße and Rothmundstraße in May, 1938.
 
American tank outside the Imperial Lichtspiele cinema, now the Anna Hotel
 
The Markuskirche then and now
 
The gaol at Corneliusstraße no longer exists postwar

Two unidentified eagles stumbled upon in Munich:
 
Can't find any information on this in terms of its date; found accidentally on Liebigstr. whilst walking along the river to Prinzregentenstr with another found at the other end of town on Orleanstr. showing a distinctive eagle of indeterminate origin.
Nazi mementos I found being sold in the front window of a Munich antique shop. It's but one of many I found which surprised me given the country's supposed strict laws concerning the open display of such items (unless used publicly by the Government itself). All swastikas were covered with a round sticker which seems as useful as censoring swear words on television.
рейхсканцелярия Фюрербункер Καταφύγιο του Χίτλερ 総統地下壕 제1차 세계 대전 제2차 세계 대전 홀로코스트 뉘른베르크 전범 재판 하인리히 히믈러 나치 신나치주의 신비주의 히틀러 암살 미수 사건 독일 에바 브라운 겔리 라우발 브론 location of hitler's bunker    “body man”K元首地堡(德语:Führerbunker)殺。5月2日,蘇聯軍隊佔領此處。 大眾文化      電影帝國毀滅即是以此地為主要場景。 al Penn Фюрербункер (Führerbunker (инф.)) — наименование комплекса подземных помещений в Берлине, размещённых под рейхсканцелярией. Этот бункер служил последним убежищем Адольфа Гитлера в течение последних недель существования национал-социалистического режима в Германии. Бункер был штаб-квартирой фюрера, в которой он и ещё ряд нацистских руководителей (включая Геббельса) покончили с войны  Бункер был расположен к северо-востоку от рейхсканцелярии. Пять метров под землей (четыре метра железобетона и метр грунта), тридцать комнат (помещений различного назначения — от конференц-зала до туалета и венткамер), расположенных на двух уровнях с выходами в главное здание и аварийный выход в сад. Бункер имел общую площадь около 250 квадратных метров. Был построен в два этапа (1936 и 1943 годы). Впервые Гитлер посетил Фюрербункер 25 ноября 1944 года. 16 января 1945 года Адольф Гитлер окончательно перебрался в Фюрербункер, но до 15 марта 1945 периодически покидал его, однако 15 марта 1945 с приближением советских войск перестал покидать его окончательно.  Выход из бункера в сквер внутреннего двора Рейхсканцелярии, место сожжения трупа Гитлера После Второй мировой войны  Здание Рейхсканцелярии было снесено, входы в бункер взорваны и засыпаны Munich Pulsing with prosperity and Bavarian Gemütlichkeit (cosiness), Munich loves to revel in its own contradictions. This sophisticated modern metropolis draws as much inspiration from nouvelle cuisine and Hugo Boss as sausages and thick leather shorts. Munich may be a high- minded fellow but pop a keg and he’ll be out there tearing up the dance floor. Polls of wistful Germans confirm Munich is the most popular place to live – and in a blink you’ll see why. Balmy summer evenings at one of its street-side cafés make the city feel like a Florence or a Milan. Thrilling Alpine landscapes, crystal-clear lakes and fairy-tale castles lie at its doorstep. It is a haven for all sorts of culture. And at Oktoberfest the entire planet converges to toast the town. Parts of Germany may have fallen on hard times but Munich shakes it off like magic. A forest of construction cranes dots the landscape, planting hi-tech office towers and sharp, ecofriendly residences where highways once stood. Bavaria never grew much heavy industry, so Munich’s centre retains a small-town feel. Global players such as Siemens and BMW hug the outskirts and their influence lends the city a cosmopolitan flair and a good chunk of its wealth. In the beer gardens you may hear more English than German, and almost as much Italian or Japanese. Forget the Teutonic clichés about grim workaholics – Münchners have plenty to smile about and any time of year the mood is infectious, be it during the tourist-packed summer or the cold stillness of a February afternoon. HIGHLIGHTS Hoisting a mug of Helles at an authentic beer hall, such as the Augustiner Bräu- stuben (p119) Watching the daredevil surfers negotiate the dangerous wave in the English Garden (p105) Getting unusual perspectives – and an incredible adrenaline rush – while clamber- ing around the roof of the Olympic Stadium, Olympiapark (p96) Feeling your spirits soar among the fantastic art of the Alte Pinakothek (p91) Hitting the bars and clubs of the Gärtner- platzviertel (p120) for a night of fun Olympiapark Augustiner Bräustuben Alte Pinakothek   English Garden Gärtnerplatzviertel TELEPHONE CODE: 089 POPULATION: 1.26 MILLION AREA: 310 SQ KM MUNICH MUNICH 74 MUNICH •• History  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Information 75 HISTORY It was the Benedictine monks, drawn by fertile farmland and the closeness to Catholic Italy, who first settled present-day Munich. They also gave the city its name, for München is medieval German for monk. In 1240 the city passed to the Wittelsbach dynasty who would run Munich (as well as Bavaria) until the 20th century. Munich pros- pered as a centre for the salt trade but was hit hard by the outbreak of plague in 1349. When the epidemic finally subsided 150 years later, the Schäffler (coopers) began a ritualis- tic dance to remind burghers of their good fortune. The Schäfflertanz is reenacted daily by the little figures on the city’s glockenspiel (carillon) on Marienplatz. By the early 19th century, furious monu- ment building gave Munich its spectacular architecture and wide Italianate avenues. Culture and the arts flourished, but when Ludwig II ascended the throne his grandiose projects, his numerous lavish palaces for ex- ample, bankrupted the royal house and threat- ened the government. Ironically, today they are the biggest money-spinners of Bavaria’s tourism industry. Munich has seen many turbulent times but last century was particularly rough. WWI practically starved the city; the Nazis first rose to prominence here and the next world war nearly wiped the city off the map. The 1972 Olympic Games ended in tragedy when 17 people were killed in a terrorist hostage-taking incident. In 2006 the city won a brighter place in sporting history when it hosted the opening game of soccer’s World Cup. Today Munich’s claim to being ‘secret capi- tal’ of Germany is alive and well. The city is recognised for its high living standards, the most millionaires per capita after Hamburg and for an appreciation of the good life. ORIENTATION The heart of Munich beats in the Altstadt, the historic centre, where you’ll find such block- buster sights as Marienplatz, Viktualienmarkt, the Residenz and the Hofbräuhaus. North of here are the student and museum quarter of Maxvorstadt and bustling Schwabing with its see-and-be-seen Leopoldstrasse boul- evard and the vast English Garden. Keep going north and you’ll eventually arrive at the Olympiapark, while further west, Schloss Nymphenburg lords it over Neuhausen, an unprepossessing residential quarter with great pub life. To the south, Neuhausen seg- ues smoothly into multicultural Westend, MUNICH IN... One Day Spend your first day exploring Munich’s historic Altstadt. Get your bearings from the St Peterskirche tower (p77), peruse the colourful bounty at the Viktualienmarkt (p77), then keep a tab on the city’s evolution at the Münchner Stadtmuseum (p87), whose Third Reich exhibit makes a poign- ant transition to the nearby Jüdisches Museum (p87). Duck into the lavishly baroque Asamkirche (p87), then compare it to the Gothic starkness of the landmark Frauenkirche (p90). Time for lunch and perhaps some shopping in the Fünf Höfe arcade (p90). In the afternoon, pick your favourite Pinakothek museum (p91), then cap the day with a classic Bavarian meal, for instance in the Augustiner Bräustuben (p119). Two Days Tour the royal splendour of the Residenz (p88), then relax in the English Garden (p96). Follow up with a coffee break in a Schwabing café, then treat your ears to a concert at the Kulturzentrum Gasteig (p103) or Jazzclub Unterfahrt (p122) and finish the night with a bar hop around the Gärtnerplatzviertel (p120). More Days If you’ve got more time, definitely head out to Schloss Nymphenburg (p99), visit the Deutsches Museum (p101), browse the funky boutiques in the Gärtnerplatzviertel and confront the ghosts of Dachau Concentration Camp (p131). If you need a break from urbanity, head to the Fünf- Seen-Land (p127). whose still affordable rents are drawing a growing contingent of artists and scene- sters. It’s also not far from the Oktoberfest grounds on Theresienwiese. East of the Wiesn, Ludwigvorstadt has a split personal- ity with lovely, villa-studded residential streets around Beethovenplatz and a slightly seedy vibe just south of the Hauptbahnhof. Past the Sendlinger Tor, the Glockenbachviertel is Munich’s lesbigay HQ and, along with the adjacent Gärtnerplatzviertel, the current hipster zone with alt-flavoured bars, interest- ing restaurants and the best clubs in town. East of here, on the right (south) Isar bank, Haidhausen is a district in transition that mixes high-brow culture with a down-and- dirty party scene and progressive restaurants. Across the river, peaceful Lehel brims with stylish Art Deco apartment houses and key museums along Prinzregentenstrasse. Maps Falk’s foldout concertina maps of Munich are the handiest to use. Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil Club’s (ADAC) large-format map is good but is tricky to use while driving. INFORMATION Bookshops Geobuch (Map pp82-3; %265 030; Rosental 6, Altstadt; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat) Best travel book- shop in town. Hugendubel (www.hugendubel.de) Karlsplatz (Map pp82-3; %484 484; Karlsplatz 11-12); Marienplatz (Map pp82-3; %484 484; Marienplatz 22) Excellent all-purpose chain with reading corners, a café, and plenty of travel guides and English books. Hugendubel English Bookshop (Map pp82-3; %01801-484 484; Salvatorplatz 2, Altstadt) Huge selec- tion of novels, guidebooks and nonfiction in the original Hugendubel branch. Sussmann Presse & Buch (Map pp82-3; %551 170; Hauptbahnhof ) Major English-language publications and books for reading between train stops. Words’ Worth Books (Map p81; %280 9141; Schell- ingstrasse 3, Maxvorstadt) Academic tomes and literature in English near the university. Emergency Ambulance (%192 22) Fire (%112) Lost & Found (Map pp78-9; %01805-386 328; Ötztaler Strasse 17, Untersendling; h8.30am-noon Mon-Thu, 7am-noon Fri, 2-6.30pm Tue) Take U6 to Partnachplatz. Police (%110) Nonemergencies (Map pp82-3; %545 8290; Arnulfstrasse 1, Ludwigvorstadt) Rape Crisis Hotline (%763 737; h10am-11pm Mon-Fri, 6pm-2am Sat & Sun) Internet Access Most public libraries offer internet access for €0.50 per 30 minutes; see www.muenchner -stadtbibliothek.de (in German). Cyberice-Café (Map p81; %3407 6955; Feilitzschstrasse 15, Schwabing; per 30/60 min €1.50/2.50; h10am-1am) In an ice-cream parlour near the English Garden. easyInternetCafe (Map pp82-3; Bahnhofplatz 1; per hr €1-3.80; h7.30am-11.45pm) Rude staff and confusing price scheme but easy to find and with 600 terminals. MISC-24 (Map pp82-3; %2371 2672; Weinstrasse 6/cnr Sporergasse; per 30min €1; h24hr) With extra services such as printing and CD burning. A second branch is in the passageway at Sonnenstrasse 8 near Karlsplatz (Map pp82–3). Internet Resources www.muenchen-tourist.de Munich’s official website. www.munichfound.de Munich’s expat magazine. www.toytowngermany.com English-language community website with specialised Munich pages. Left Luggage Gepäckaufbewahrung (staffed storage room; %1308 6664; main hall, Hauptbahnhof; per 24hr per piece €4; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-6pm Sun) Lockers (Hauptbahnhof main hall & opposite tracks 16, 24 & 28-36; per 24hr €2-4; h4am-12.30am) Libraries Bayerische Staatsbibliothek (see p94) Stadtbücherei Haidhausen (city library; Map p85; %4809 8316; Rosenheimer Strasse 5); Schwabing (Map p81; %336 013; Hohenzollernstrasse 16); Westend (Map pp82-3; %507 109; Schrenkstrasse 8) Media Abendzeitung Light broadsheet that, despite the name, has a morning delivery. Münchner Merkur The city’s archconservative daily. Süddeutsche Zeitung Widely read regional paper with a liberal streak. Monday’s edition has a New York Times supplement in English. tzDailylocaltabloid. Discount Cards City Tour Card (www.citytourcard.com; 1/3 days €9.80/18.80) Includes transport and discounts of between 10% and 50% for about 30 attractions, including the Residenz, the zoo and Bier- und Oktoberfestmuseum. It’s available at some hotels, Munich public transport authority (MVV)offices,andU-BahnandS-Bahnvendingmachines. MUNICH MUNICH 76 MUNICH •• Dangers & Annoyances lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Sights 77 Medical Services The US and UK consulates (p316) can provide lists of English-speaking doctors. Bereitschaftsdienst der Münchner Ärzte (Map pp82-3; %01805-191 212; Elisenhof; h24hr) Non- emergency medical services with English-speaking doctors. Chirurgische Klinik (Map pp82-3; %5160 2611; Nussbaumstrasse 20; h24hr) Emergency room. Emergency Dentist (%723 3093; h10am-11pm) Emergency Pharmacy ( (served until a hangover-friendly 11.30pm!), a cuppa Java or a Helles in the lovely garden hidden by a wall from busy Ludwigstrasse. Bar Tapas (Map p81; %390 919; Amalienstrasse 97, Maxvorstadt; tapas €3.90 each; h4pm-1am; v) A phalanx of 30 tapas – boquerones (anchovies) to octopus salad to garlic chicken – reports to duty behind glass along the bar of this convivial Iberian outpost. Write down the numbers, then sit back with a jug of sangria and wait for your tasty morsels to arrive. Il Mulino (Map p81; %523 3335; Görresstrasse 1, Schwabing; mains €5-10; h10am-1am; v) It’s got a new owner but the food is as sharp as ever at this neighbourhood classic that’s been feeding Italophiles for three decades. All the expected pastas and pizzas are accounted for, although the daily specials will likely tickle the palate of more curious eaters. Casa de Tapas (Map p81; %2731 2288; Bauerstrasse 2, Schwabing; tapas €2.50-6, mains €9.50-15; h4pm-1am; v) The painted ceiling and rustic elegance of this buzzy bodega transport you straight to the Iberian Peninsula. There’s a fine menu of meat and fish mains, but it’s also a top spot for such tapas as Serrano ham, marinated squid, garlic prawns and other tastebud ticklers. Schmock (Map p81; %5235 0535; Augustenstrasse 52, Schwabing; mains €14-22; h6pm-1am; v) Kosher TOP FIVE RESTAURANTS FOR VEGETARIANS Prinz Myschkin (left) Zewirk (left) Maoz (p117) Kao Kao (p116) Café an der Uni (above) MUNICH MUNICH 116 MUNICH •• Eating  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Eating 117 food gets a gourmet twist at this elegant rest- aurant with its stucco ornamented ceiling, fresh flowers and complexion-friendly Art Nouveau lamps. The goat cheese in filo is a great overture for such flavour symphonies as venison with chestnut puree. Riva Bar (Map p81; %309-051 808; Feilitzschstrasse 4; mains €7-15; h11.30am-1am) The sexier sister pizz- eria of the original Altstadt branch (p115). NEUHAUSEN Ruffini (Map p80; %161 160; Orffstrasse 22; meals €7-10; h10am-midnight Tue-Sun; v) This been-there- forever café is a fun place to be no matter where the hands of the clock are. On sunny days, the self-service rooftop terrace gets a steady stream of tattooed scenesters, hip fami- lies and wallet-watching students. Organic ingredients are used, wherever possible. Zapata (Map p80; %166 5822; Wilderich-Lang-Strasse 4; mains €8-18; h5pm-1am) It’s always fiesta time at Munich’s most authentic Mexican cantina where one stiff margarita may be all it takes to drown your sorrows. To stay stable, load up on sizzling fajitas, ginormous burritos and other delicious south-of-the-border staples. Zauberberg (Map p80; %1899 9178; Hedwigstrasse 14; lunch €7-9; dinner menu 3/4/5 courses €38/48/55, with wine €52/65/72; hnoon-2am Tue-Thu, 7pm-1am daily; n) Far off the tourist track, this 40-seat locals’ favourite will put your tummy into a state of contentment with its elegant, well-composed international creations. Single plates are avail- able but in order to truly sample the chef’s tal- ents, you should order a multicourse menu. WESTEND & LUDWIGSVORSTADT Müller & Söhne (Map pp82-3; %4523 7867; Kazmairstrasse 28, Westend; mains €6-12; h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 6pm Sat; v) In a former bakery, this sweet, unhurried café fits as comfortably as a well- worn shoe. Everyone from young mothers to office folks and local artists gathers behind the big windows for breakfast, strong Java or tasty, Italian-flavoured sustenance. Marais (Map pp82-3; %5009 4552; Parkstrasse 2, Westend; dishes €4-9; h8am-8pm; v) Conversation never seem to flag at this dusty haberdasher turned ultracosy coffeehouse. The old shelves, glass cases and creaky cash register from the 1930s are still there and everything – from buttons to bio-cosmetics and the antique chair you’re sitting on – is for sale. Stragula (Map pp78-9; %507 743; Bergmannstrasse 66, Westend; mains €7-12; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30pm-1am Mon-Thu, 6pm-1am Fri-Sun) This Westend institution has been feeding friendly locals for nearly a quarter-century. It maintains a relaxed, living- room–like feel, holds regular literary readings, and serves Bavarian and Italian food. Kao Kao (Map pp82-3; %505 400; Tulbeckstrasse 9, Westend; mains €12-19; hnoon-2pm Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am daily; v) A tantalising aroma of lemongrass, curry and coconut will perk up even the most jaded proboscis at this top Thai parlour with zero kitsch factor. The menu hopscotches from classic pad thai to red shrimp curry with lychees and Barbary duck in whisky sauce, usually with palate-pleasing results. The lunch buffet is a steal at €7.50. La Vecchia Masseria (Map pp82-3; %550 9090; Mathildenstrasse 3, Ludwigsvorstadt; mains €6-15; h11.30am-midnight) The ambience here is in- delibly Italian: loud, good value but somehow still romantic. Earthy wood tables, antique tin buckets, baskets and clothing irons conjure up the ambience of a Tuscan farmhouse. The chef comes out to greet customers in his trademark straw hat. GÄRTNERPLATZVIERTEL & GLOCKENBACHVIERTEL oFraunhofer (Map pp82-3; %266 460; Fraunhoferstrasse 9, Gärtnerplatzviertel; mains €5-14; h4.30pm-1am) This classic brewpub brings tradition into the 21st century. The olde- worlde atmosphere (mounted animal heads and a portrait of Ludwig II) contrasts with the clued-in, intergenerational crowd and a menu that offers progressive takes on classi- cal fare. The tiny theatre at the back has some great shows and was among the venues that pioneered a modern style of Volksmusik (folk music) back in the ’70s and ’80s. Sushi + Soul (Map pp82-3; %201 0992; Klenzestrasse 71, Glockenbachviertel; mains €8-18; h6pm-1am) The sushi is good, other dishes can be hit or miss but the scene is fun anyway with hipsters washing down piscine morsels with creative cocktails (Tokyopolitan anyone?) while get- ting showered with Japanese pop. A flirty Sex & the City vibe rules, especially during happy hour (6pm to 8pm and after 11pm) when drinks are half-price. Joe Peña’s (Map pp82-3; %226 463; Butter- melcherstrasse 17, Gärtnerplatzviertel; mains €10-17; h5pm-1am) This festive cantina-style rest- aurant is regarded as Munich’s best Tex-Mex place and can get very crowded, especially during happy hour (5pm to 8pm). The food is tasty and as authentic as you’d expect this side of the Atlantic. La Bouche (Map pp82-3; %265 626; Jahnstrasse 30, enter on Westermühlstrasse, Glockenbachviertel; mains €12.50- 17.50; hnoon-3pm Mon-Fri, 6-10pm Mon-Sat) It’s good vibes all around at this French-inspired port of call where tables are squished as tight as lovers and the accent is on imaginative but gimmick- free fare. We loved the truffle ravioli. By the way, it’s much bigger than first meets the eye – there’s a second room at the back. Also recommended: MC Müller (Map pp82-3; %1891 0039; cnr Müller- strasse & Fraunhoferstrasse, Gärtnerplatzviertel; burger from €5; h6pm-2am Sun-Wed, 6pm-4am Thu-Sat) Sixties looks and triple duty as bar, DJ lounge and burger joint until the wee hours. Sevenfish (Map pp82-3; %2300 0219; Gärtnerplatz 6; mains lunch €8.50-13.50, dinner €14-23, menu €40; h10am-1am) Great and innovative fish dishes, albeit served with a side of trendy aloofness. Get real! LEHEL & HAIDHAUSEN Nage & Sauge (Map p85; %298 803; Mariannenstrasse 2; mains €7.50-13; h5.15pm-1am) Candles, Chianti and a table for two are the hallmarks of a romantic night out. Even if your date doesn’t make you swoon, the delicious Italian food will ensure an unforgettable evening. The signature dish is Ente Elvis, starring duck flambeéd with cassis (black current liqueur). Wirtshaus in der Au (Map p85; %448 1400; Lilienstrasse 51; mains €9-18; h5pm-1am Mon-Fri, 10am- 1am Sat & Sun) A traditional Bavarian restaurant with a solid 21st-century vibe – how refresh- ing is that? Dumplings are the speciality at this top pick near the Deutsches Museum (try the trio with cheese, red beet and spin- ach variations) but other favourites, updated of course, also keep regulars coming back. Beer garden in summer, crackling fireplace in winter. No Mi Ya (Map p85; %448 4095; Wörthstrasse 7; à la carte €1.20-7.60, platters €15-27; h6pm-1am) Antlers and sushi? Weissbier and yakitori (grilled chicken on skewers)? This Bavarian-Japanese tavern definitely takes fusion to new heights. If the packed tables are any indication, Ferdinand Schuster’s concept is a winner, and not only with the fickle in-crowd. Paros (Map p85; %470 2995; Kirchenstrasse 21; mains €8-18; h5pm-1am) You’ll kick up your heels like Zorba himself after filling your tummy with Greek soul food at this simple yet sophisti- cated nosh spot. The menu features all the usual suspects (gyros, moussaka, avgolem- ono soup) but daily specials like veal cutlet grilled on lava rock are worth exploring as well. Opa! Showroom (Map p85; %444 290; Lilienstrasse 6; mains €17-25, menu €55; h5pm-1am Mon-Sat) Andreas Schweiger’s crossover creations strike just the right balance between adventure and com- fort, which is why his restaurant is among the hottest in town. Foie gras spiced with leb- kuchen or quail and shrimp with pear-lentil salad pack plenty of substance to please even demanding palates. Nektar (Map p85; %4591 1311; Stubenvollstrasse 1; dinner menu €49; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun) With its dra- matic mood-lighting, drag queen performers and sexy crowd, this big-city spot delivers so much eye candy, it’s hard to focus on the flavour-intense fusion food. Eating is done Roman style: lying down (but without the buckets...). Wear nice socks. Also recommended: L’Angolo della Pizza (Map p85; %448 8979; Breisacher Strasse 30; pizza €3-10; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30pm-12.30am Mon-Fri & Sun, 4pm-12.30am Sat) Modern, uncluttered pizzeria with delicious, thin-crust pies plus daily blackboard specials. Quick Eats Bergwolf (Map pp82-3; %2325 9858; Fraunhoferstrasse 17, Glockenbachviertel; sausage €2.80; hnoon-2am Mon-Thu, noon-4am Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun, closed 3-6pm Sun-Fri) At this favourite pit stop for night owls, the poison of choice is Currywurst, a sliced spicy sausage provocatively dressed in a curried ketchup and best paired with a pile of steamy fries. Hangover prevention at its finest. Eiscafé Sarcletti (Map p80; %155 314; Nymphenburger Strasse 155, Neuhausen; h8.30am-11pm) Addicts brave rock-star-worthy lines to get their gelato fix at this Munich institution that has been working its frozen magic since 1879. Choose from more than 50 mouthwatering flavours, from not-so-plain vanilla to honey-yogurt or caramel. Maoz (Map pp82-3; Lueg Ins Land 1, Altstadt; sandwich €2.50-3.50; h10am-10pm; v) One bite and you’re hooked by Maoz’ crunchy falafels tucked into a wholemeal or white pita pocket. Get as crea- tive as you want when loading up on crisp sal- ads and tasty sauces at the DIY bar. A healthy, meat-free snack. Pommes Boutique (Map p81; %9547 3312; Amalienstrasse 46, Maxvorstadt; fries €2.20; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun) At Bergwolf’s classier MUNICH MUNICH 118 MUNICH •• Drinking  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Drinking 119 TOP FIVE LATE-NIGHT NOSH SPOTS Alter Simpl (p120) Bergwolf (p117) Eat the Rich (p120) Lamm’s (p114) MC Müller (p117) cousin the walls are mod green and purple, the sausage gourmet and the fries organic. Pair them with 20 different dips, most of them fingerlickin’ delish. Dönertier (Map pp82-3; Sendlinger Strasse 31; döner €3.60-4.20; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat) This spacey döner (doner kebab) bar takes the humble snack to new heights. Go classic or try the ‘deluxe’ version with rucola (rocket) and mozzarella, and definitely top it off with the refreshing mango yogurt. Mama’s Kebap Haus (Map p81; %392 642; Feilitzschstrasse 7, Schwabing; döner €3.50, mains around €10; h11am-1am) A döner institution popular with night owls. Self-Catering The dominant supermarket chains are Aldi, Penny, Tengelmann, Lidl and Plus, with mult- iple branches scattered throughout the city. For a better, more upscale (and pricier) select- ion, head to the supermarket in the basement of the Kaufhof (Map pp82-3; %512 50; Karlsplatz 21-24, Altstadt) department store or the Viktualienmarkt (p77). Deep-pocketed gourmets have a couple of venerable destinations to look forward to: Dallmayr (Map pp82-3; %213 50; Dienerstrasse 14, Altstadt; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) is famous for its coffee but has so much more, including cheeses, ham, truffles, wine, caviar and exotic foods from every corner of the earth. Käfer (Map p85; %416 8255; Prinzregentenstrasse 73, Haidhausen; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4pm Sat) is just as good. For organic anything, steer towards Basic Bio (h8am-8pm; v) Altstadt (Map pp82-3; %242 0890; Westenriederstrasse 35); Schwabing (Map p81; %323 8470; Schleissheimer Strasse 158) or Zerwirk (p114). Need a bottle of wine, dog food or toilet paper at 5am in the morning? You’ll find all of this and then some at Kiosk Reichenbachbrücke (Map pp82-3; %201 5297; Fraunhoferstrasse 46, Gärtnerplatzviertel; h24hr), a kiosk with cult sta- tus among clued-in Münchners. DRINKING Munich is a great place for boozers. Raucous beer halls, snazzy hotel lounges, chestnut- canopied beer gardens, hipster DJ bars, de- signer cocktail temples – the variety is so huge that finding a party pen to match your mood is not exactly a tall order. Generally speaking, student-flavoured places abound in Maxvorstadt and Schwabing, while traditional beer halls and taverns cluster in the Altstadt; Haidhausen goes for trendy types and the Gärtnerplatzviertel and Glockenbachviertel is a haven for gays and hipsters. No matter where you are, you won’t be far from an enticing café to get a Java-infused pick-me-up. Many also serve light fare and delicious cakes (often home-made) and are great places to linger, chat, write postcards or simply watch people on parade. See the boxed text (opposite) and the reviews under Bars & Cafés (opposite) for suggestions. Beer Halls & Gardens Bavaria’s brews are best sampled in a vener- able old Bierkeller (beer hall) and Biergarten (beer garden). People come here primarily to drink, and although food may be served, it is generally an afterthought. In beer gardens you are usually allowed to bring your own picnic as long as you sit at tables without tablecloths and order something to drink. Sometimes there’s a resident brass band showering you with oompah music. And don’t even think about sitting at a Stammtisch, a table reserved for regulars (look for a brass plaque, a shingle or some other sign)! Beer costs €6 to €7.50 per litre. A deposit of €2 or so may be charged for the glass. ALTSTADT Viktualienmarkt (Map pp82-3; %297 545; Viktualienmarkt 6; h9am-10pm) After a day of sightseeing or shopping stock up on tasty nibbles at the Viktualienmarkt, then lug your loot a few steps further to this chestnut-shaded beer garden, a Munich institution since 1807. The breweries take turns serving here, so you never know what’s on tap. Braunauer Hof (Map pp82-3; %223 613; Frauenstrasse 42; h9am-midnight Mon-Sat) Near the Isartor, this pleasingly twisted beer garden is centred on a snug courtyard. There’s a hedge maze, a fresco with a bizarre bunch of historical figures and a golden bull that’s illuminated at night. Hofbräuhaus (Map pp82-3; %221 676; Am Platzl 9) Definitely the mecca of beer halls. We can’t stop you from making the pilgrimage but we bet that after witnessing the drunken shenani- gans, you’ll agree that there are more civilised imbibing options in town. The beer garden offers some sensory relief. SCHWABING Chinesischer Turm (Map p81; %383 8730; Englischer Garten 3) This one’s hard to ignore because of its English Garden location and pedigree as Munich’s oldest beer garden (since 1791). Tourists and trendoids clump around the wooden pagoda, showered by the strained sounds of possibly the world’s drunkest oompah band. Hirschau (Map p81; %322 1080; Gysslingstrasse 15) This beer garden for 1700 people has live jazz almost daily in summer, and Spaten and Franziskaner on tap. Kids get their kicks on the playground and adjacent minigolf course. Take the U6 to Dietlindenstrasse, then it’s a 15-minute walk. Seehaus (Map p81; %381 6130; Kleinhesselohe 3) A drinks station for the posh set, right on the Kleinhesseloher See, with dreamy views of the lake and the park. Paulaner is the featured brew. NEUHAUSEN & NYMPHENBURG Hirschgarten (Map p80; %172 591; Hirschgartenallee 1, Nymphenburg; h9am-midnight) The ‘Everest’ of Munich gardens can accommodate up to 8000 Augustiner lovers, but still manages to feel airy and uncluttered. It’s in a lovely spot in a former royal hunting preserve and rubs up against a deer enclosure and a carousel. Steer here after visiting Schloss Nymphenburg – it’s only a short walk south of the palace. Augustiner Keller (off Map pp82-3; %594 393; Arnulfstrasse 52, Neuhausen; h10am-midnight) A bell chimes every time a new keg is tapped and at this handsome leafy beer garden with space for 5000 thirsty revellers it rarely stops. The ancient chestnuts are thick enough to seek ref- uge under when it rains, or else lug your mug to the actual beer cellar. Small playground. WESTEND oAugustiner Bräustuben (Map pp82-3; %507 047; Landsberger Strasse 19, Westend; h10am-midnight) Depending on the wind, an aroma of hops envelops you as you approach this ultra- authentic beer hall inside the actual Augustiner brewery, popular with the brewmeisters them- selves (there’s an entire table reserved just for them). The Bavarian grub here is superb, especially the Schweinshaxe. Giant black draft horses are stabled behind glass on your way to the loo. HAIDHAUSEN Biergarten Muffatwerk (Map p85; %4587 5073; Zellstrasse 4; h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, noon-1am Fri & Sat) Think of this one as a progressive beer garden with reggae instead of oompah, civilised im- bibing instead of brainless guzzling, organic meats, fish and vegetables on the grill, and the option of chilling in lounge chairs. Plus it’s open late. BEYOND THE INNER CITY Zum Flaucher (Map pp78-9; %723 2677; Isarauen 8, Sendling; h11.30am-10pm Tue-Sun) This congenial restaurant-cum-beer garden in the Isar River meadows feels a like a microvacation from the city bustle. The spare ribs are fall-off-the- bone tender, kids can wear themselves out on the imaginative playground and soccer fans descend for big matches beamed onto a giant screen. Take the U3 to Brudermühlstrasse. Waldwirtschaft Grosshesselohe (off Map pp78-9; %795 088; Georg-Kalb-Strasse 3, Grosshesselohe; h11am- 11pm) One of Munich’s nicest beer garden oases, this one delivers Spaten beer, 2500 seats under shady chestnuts, idyllic views of the Isar valley and live jazz nightly in good weather from Easter through September. Kids can frolic in the big playground. Take the S7 to Grosshesselohe/Isartalbahnhof. Bars & Cafés Cafés listed here can be considered child- friendly during the day. ALTSTADT Schumann’s Bar (Map pp82-3; %229 060; Odeonsplatz 6-7) Urbane and sophisticated, Schumann’s TOP FIVE PLACES FOR COFFEE Black Bean (p120) Café an der Uni (p115) Götterspeise (p121) Marais (p116) Zappeforster (p121) MUNICH MUNICH 120 MUNICH •• Drinking  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Entertainment 121 has been shaking up Munich’s nightlife with libational flights of fancy in an impressive range of more than 220 concoctions. Great for a first date. Master’s Home (Map pp82-3; %229 909; Frauenstrasse 11) This is a wonderfully quirky cellar just east of the Viktualienmarkt. The off-centre décor time warps you back to the colonial era – antique furnishings, plenty of knick- knacks and oddities such as a room built around a bathtub. Café Cord (Map pp82-3; %5454 0780; Sonnenstrasse 19; h11am-at least 1am) A good stop for breakfast (served to 4pm), a light lunch or coffee, Cord also makes for an ideal first pit stop for a long night ahead on the club circuit. In summer, the super-delicious global fare tastes best on the romantic, twinkle-lit courtyard. Café Glockenspiel (Map pp82-3; %264 256; Marienplatz 28; h10am-1am Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun) Not exactly an insider tip but still much beloved for eye-level views of the Neues Rathaus glockenspiel (p76), ideally from the rooftop terrace. MAXVORSTADT & SCHWABING Alter Simpl (Map p81; %272 3083; Türkenstrasse 57, Maxvorstadt, mains €5-13; h11am-3am Mon-Thu, 6pm- 4am Fri & Sat) Thomas Mann and Hermann Hesse used to knock ’em back at this legendary thirst parlour, which is also a good place to satisfy midnight munchies as bar bites are available until one hour before closing time. The curi- ous name, by the way, is an abbreviation of the satirical magazine Simplicissimus. Eat the Rich (Map p81; %185 982; Hessstrasse 90, Maxvorstadt; h7pm-3am Tue-Sat) Strong cocktails served in half-litre glasses quickly loosen in- hibitions at this sizzling ‘meet’ market where wrinkle-free hotties mix it up with banker types halfway up the career ladder. A great spot to crash when the party’s winding down everywhere else. Food is served till 2.30am. News Bar (Map p81; %281 787; Amalienstrasse 55, Maxvorstadt; breakfast €3-10; h7.30am-2am) From tou- sled students to young managers and grey- ing professors, everybody loves their news, especially at this stylish café that also sells international papers and mags. It’s an ideal breakfast spot before embarking on a day of Pinakothek museum hopping. Brik (Map p81; %2899 6630; Schellingstrasse 24, Schwabing; sushi €5-10) This slick Japanese-style café, bar and lounge is a temple of minimal- ism and draws a hip crowd as much for the delicious sushi snacks as for the drinks. From Thursday to Sunday, DJs usually play a wicked mix of indie, techno and top 40. Black Bean (Map p81; %2867 5088; Amalienstrasse 44, Maxvorstadt; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6.30pm Sat, 10am-6.30pm Sun) If you think the only decent ‘brew’ Bavarians made is beer, train your Java radar to this regional retort to Starbucks. The organic coffee gets tops marks and so do the muffins. GÄRTNERPLATZVIERTEL & GLOCKENBACHVIERTEL Trachtenvogl (%201 5160; Reichenbachstrasse 47, Gärtnerplatzviertel; h10am-1am) At night you’ll have to shoehorn your way into this buzzy lair favoured by a chatty, boozy crowd of scene- sters, artists and students. Daytimes are mel- lower, all the better to slurp its hot chocolate menu and check out the cuckoo clocks and antlers, left over from the days when this was a folkoric garment shop. Netzer & Overrath (Map pp82-3; %2023 2840; Baaderstrasse 33, Gärtnerplatzviertel; hOverrath 9am- 11pm Sun-Wed, Netzer h8pm-3am Thu-Sat) This alt- flavoured double pub is named for two mem- bers of the German national soccer team that won the FIFA World Cup in 1974. Overrath is the quieter one, more a daytime place for reading, sipping coffee or snacking. After dark Netzer puts ‘fun’ in ‘funky’ with loud rock, Britpop, cold beer and a Fussball table. Baader Café (Map pp82-3; %201 0638; Baaderstrasse 47, Gärtnerplatzviertel; h9.30am-1am) This literary think-and-drink place gets everyone from short skirts to tweed jackets to mingle beneath the conversation-fuelling map of the world. Lines for the awesome Sunday brunch are longer than for the clubs that got everyone hungover the night before. Café am Hochhaus (Map pp82-3; %8905 8152; Blumenstrasse 29; h8pm-3am Mon-Sat) Once a stodgy café only grandmas could love, this tiny joint now heaves with libidinous hipsters decades away from retirement. Cool photo wallpaper and handpicked live DJs keep the sizzle on until the wee hours. Gay tea-dance on Sundays. K&K (%2020 7463; Reichenbachstrasse 22; h8pm- 2am) Only the name and some of the fur- nishings recall the days when this was a stuffy Austrian gourmet restaurant and not an upbeat DJ-and-drinks den. Creative lighting gives even pasty-faced hipsters a healthy glow. Zappeforster (Map pp82-3; %2024 5250; Corneliusstrasse 50, Glockenbachviertel; h9am-1am) This relaxed hang-out is known for its creamy cap- puccino, perky ice teas and warm home-made waffles served beneath groovy mountain wall- paper or on the sunny terrace. Götterspeise (Map pp82-3; %2388 7374; Jahnstrasse 30, Glockenbachviertel; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat) If the Aztecs thought of chocolate as the elixir of the gods, then this shop-cum-café must be heaven. Cocoa addicts satisfy their cravings with rave-worthy French chocolate cake, thick hot drinking chocolate, handmade ganache and even chocolate-flavoured ‘body paint’ for those wishing to double their sins. WESTEND Kilombo (Map pp82-3; Gollierstrasse 14a) Having been kicked out of its Haidhausen outpost, Christian Blau reopened his cult pub in September 2007 in multicultural Westend, which he considers Munich’s most ‘urban’ area. Check your atti- tude at the door and make new friends over reasonably priced drinks and at occasional literary readings. ENTERTAINMENT Munich’s entertainment scene is lively and multifaceted, if not particularly edgy. You can hobnob with high society at the opera or the chic P1 disco, hang with the kool kids at an indie club, catch a flick alfresco or watch one of the world’s best soccer teams triumph in a futuristic stadium. Listings E-zines useful for plugging into the local scene include www.munig.com, www.munichx .de, http://muenchen.nachtagenten.de and www.ganz-muenchen.de. All are in German only but not too hard to navigate with basic language skills. In München (www.in-muenchen.de, in German; free) Freebie mag available at bars, restaurants and shops is the most clued-in print source for what’s on in Munich. München im... Free A-to-Z pocket-sized booklet of almost everything the city has to offer. Munich Found (www.munichfound.de; €3) English- language magazine geared towards expats and visitors. Prinz München (http://muenchen.prinz.de; €1) Weekly lifestyle and entertainment glossy. Tickets & Reservations Tickets to cultural and sporting events are available at venue box offices and official ticket outlets, such as Karstadt Schwabing (Map p81; %336 659; Leopoldstrasse 82). For online bookings, try München Ticket (Map pp82-3; %5481 8181; www .muenchenticket.de, in German; Marienplatz, Altstadt), which shares premises with the tourist office. Clubbing Munich has a thriving club scene, so no mat- ter whether your musical tastes run to disco or dancehall, house or punk, noise pop or punk-folk, you’ll find some place to get those feet moving. To get the latest from the scene, peruse the listings mags or sift through the myriad flyers in shops, cafés and bars. This being Munich, expect pretty strict doors at most venues. Dress to kill to get into the fanci- est clubs. Dance floors rarely heat up before 1am, so showing up early may increase your chances of getting in without suffering the indignities of a ridiculous wait and possible rejection. If you look under 30, bring ID. Cover charges rarely exceed €15. Kultfabrik (Map p85; www.kultfabrik.info; Grafingerstrasse 6, Haidhausen) If you’ve been to Munich before, you may remember this ‘fun ghetto’ near the Ostbahnhof as Kunstpark Ost. Now the former dumpling factory has a different name but it’s still the same party mecca for libidinous kids and has more than a dozen, mostly mainstream, venues. Electro and house beats charge up the crowd at the loungy apartment 11, the Asian- themed Koi and at the small and red cocktail cantina called Die Bar. Hard rock hounds mash it up at Titty Twister, metals freaks bang on at Refugium, and nostalgic types can become disco queens at such ’70s and ’80s emporia as Noa, Rafael and Q Club. For the latest line-ups, happy hours and other useful info, check the website or look around for KuFa’s own listings mag, the free Das K-Magazin. Optimolwerke (Map p85; www.optimolwerke.de; Friedenstrasse 10, Haidhausen) Just behind KuFa, Optimol is another clubbers’ nirvana with about 15 different venues after dark. Favourites include Harry Klein (p122) and Milch & Bar, which is open daily until 6am (weekends till 9am) and the place to go when the action winds down elsewhere. Latin lovers flock to Do Brasil, while Choice-Club heats up the dance floor with black beats, chart music and house. P1 (Map p81; %211 1140; Prinzregentenstrasse 1, Lehel; hfrom 9pm daily) Is a Munich guide definitive without a nod to this playground of playboys, tabloid regulars and trust-fund babies? Not yet, perhaps. If you make it past the notorious MUNICH MUNICH 122 MUNICH •• Entertainment  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Entertainment 123 bouncers, you’ll find the crowd too busy seeing and being seen than to actually have a good time, but the décor, summer terrace and great pizza still have their appeal. Atomic Café (Map pp82-3; %228 3054; www.atomic .de; Neuturmstrasse 5, Altstadt; h10pm-4am, 9pm on con- cert nights Tue-Sun) This bastion of indie sounds with funky ’60s décor is known for bookers with a knack for catching upwardly hope- ful bands before their big break. Otherwise it’s party time; long-running ‘Britwoch’ is the hottest Wednesday club in town. Also check out the in-house label Panatomic (www.panatomic.de). Backstage (Map p80; %126 6100; www.backstage089 .de; Helmholzstrasse 18, Neuhausen; h7pm-3am Mon-Wed, 8pm Thu, 10pm Fri & Sat) Refreshingly nonmain- stream, this groovetastic boîte has a chill night beer garden and a shape-shifting line-up of punk, nu metal, hip-hop, dance hall and other alt sounds, both canned and live. The Free & Easy festival (bands, movies and comedy) in August and September enjoys cult status among clued-in locals. Erste Liga (Map pp82-3; %260 8403; www.ersteliga .com; Thalkirchner Strasse 2, Glockenbachviertel; h11pm- 5am Thu-Sat) You better be a top-rated ‘player’ to make it into hot ’n’ heavy ‘Premier League’. Beyond the velvet rope awaits a stylish base- ment club dressed in shock green where high- profile DJs whip the crowd into a frenzy with sassy electro. The cool dance floor lights up with LEDs. Harry Klein (Map p85; %4028 7400; www.harryklein club.de; Friedenstrasse 10, Haidhausen; h11pm-7am Fri & Sat) An amazing alchemy of electro sound and visuals, this party palace gets a punky-funky crowd fired up for extended dance-a-thons. Great place to crash in the wee hours. Major cool factor: live video art mixes projected onto the walls. Rote Sonne (Map pp82-3; %5526 3330; www.rote -sonne.com; Maximiliansplatz 5, Altstadt; h11pm Thu-Sun) Named for a 1969 Munich cult movie starring ‘It-Girl’ Uschi Obermaier, the Red Sun is a fiery nirvana for fans of electronic sounds. An international roster of DJs from the US, Berlin, Paris, Glasgow and elsewhere keeps the wooden dance floor packed and sweaty until the sun rises. Substanz (Map pp82-3; %721 2749; www.substanz -club.de; Ruppertstrasse 28, Ludwigsvorstadt; h8pm-2am Sun-Thu, 8pm-3am Fri & Sat) About as alternative as things get in Munich, this low-key, beery lair gets feet moving with house to indie to soul, tickles your funny bones during the English Comedy Club (first Sunday of the month) and brings out edgy wordsmiths for the SRO (standing-room-only) Poetry Slam (second Sunday). 8 Seasons (Map pp82-3; %2429 4444; www.8-sea sons.com; Maximilianstrasse 2, Altstadt; h6pm-4am Tue, 7pm-4am Thu, 10pm-6am Fri & Sat) This flirty danc- ing den has a famous after-work party on Tuesdays (one free drink and a buffet), a chill rooftop terrace, a sensuous designer look and changing DJs that spin Happy Feet–inducing house and electro beats. Jazz & Blues Jazzclub Unterfahrt (Map p85; %448 2794; www .unterfahrt.de; Einsteinstrasse 42, Haidhausen; h7.30pm- 1am Sun-Thu, 7.30pm-3am Fri & Sat) Like a fine wine, Unterfahrt only gets better with age. The crowd defines the word ‘eclectic’ and so do the acts, which range from old bebop to edgy experimental. The Sunday open jam sessions are legendary. A must for Blue Note fans. Jazzbar Vogler (Map pp82-3; %294 662; Rumfordstrasse 17, Gärtnerplatzviertel; h7pm-1am Mon-Sat) This int- imate watering hole brings some of Munich’s baddest cats to the stage. You never know who’ll show up for Monday’s blues-jazz-Latin jam session. Cover (none to €7) is added to your final bill, allowing you to listen in for a bit before committing to staying. Café am Beethovenplatz (Map pp82-3; %5440 4348; Goethestrasse 51, Ludwigsvorstadt) Downstairs at the Hotel Mariandl, this is Munich’s oldest music café with an eclectic menu of sounds ranging from bossa nova to piano to Italian canzoni (songs). Reservations advised, especially for the Sunday jazz brunch. Hide-Out (Map p80; %169 668; Rotkreuzplatz 2a, Neuhausen; h8pm-3am Tue-Sat) This blues joint draws national and international talent but keeps cover charges wallet friendly (free to MUNICH’S MONTY PYTHONS Amid all the culture, need a little comic relief? If you happen to be in town on the first Sunday or Monday of the month, head to Substanz (left), where stand-up (and often stand-out) comics imported from the UK spin everyday material into comedic gold. Tickets cost €18 and shows usually sell out, so score yours online at www.english comedyclub.de. MOVIES UNDER THE STARS Screenings under the stars have become a popular summer tradition with classic and contem- porary flicks spooling off in various locations around town. Come early to stake out a good spot and bring pillows, blankets and snacks. Kino am Königsplatz (Map p81; www.kinoopenair.de; Königsplatz, Maxvorstadt) In late July, cineastes gather in front of the majestic neoclassical setting of this central square to take in the latest blockbusters. Kino am Pool (off Map p81; www.kinoampool.de; Traubestrasse 3, Schwabing) Splash around in the municipal Ungererbad swimming pool, then stay around for the latest flick screened poolside throughout July and August. Kino, Mond & Sterne (Map pp78-9; www.kino-mond-sterne.de; Seebühne im Westpark, Am Westpark, Sendling) The repertory at this heavenly alfresco amphitheatre runs mostly towards Hollywood classics, including several in English. Take the U6 to ‘Westpark’. €15). It’s fun any day, but Thursday’s jam sessions are legendary. Classical Music & Opera Münchner Philharmoniker (%480 980; www.mphil.de; Rosenheimer Strasse 5, Haidhausen) Munich’s premier orchestra regularly performs at the Gasteig cultural centre (p103). Book tickets early as performances usually sell out. Check the web- site for upcoming public rehearsals costing just €8 (free for students, tickets available one hour before the concert). Bayerische Staatsoper (Map pp82-3; %2185 1920; www.bayerische.staatsoper.de; Max-Joseph-Platz 2, Altstadt) Considered one of the best opera companies in the world, the Bavarian State Opera puts the emphasis on Mozart, Strauss and Wagner but doesn’t shy away from early baroque pieces by Monteverdi and others of the period. In summer it hosts the prestigious Opernfestspiele (p110). Performances are at the Nationaltheater in the Residenz and often sell out. The opera’s ‘house band’ is the Bayerisches Staatsorchester (Map pp82–3), in business since 1523 and thus Munich’s oldest orchestra. It’s currently under the capable helm of Kent Nagano, who occasionally shakes up the tried-and-true repertory with contemporary and avant-garde works. BR-Symphonieorchester (%5900 4545; www.br -online.de/kultur-szene/klassik/pages/so) Charismatic Lithuanian maestro Mariss Jansons has rejuvenated this orchestra’s play list and often performs with its choir at such ven- ues as the Gasteig (Map p85) and the Prinzregententheater (Map p85). Staatstheater am Gärtnerplatz (Map pp82-3; %2185 1960; www.staatstheater-am-gaertnerplatz.de; Gärtnerplatz 3, Gärtnerplatzviertel) Munich’s ‘other’ opera house takes a more populist approach and also presents musicals and light opera, usually in German. Cinemas For show information check any of the listings publications. Admission usually ranges from €6.50 to €8.50, though one day a week, usu- ally Monday or Tuesday, is Kinotag (cinema day) with reduced prices. Movies presented in their original language are denoted in list- ings by the acronym ‘OF’ (Originalfassung) or ‘OV’ (Originalversion); those with German subtitles are marked ‘OmU’ (Original mit Untertiteln). The following theatres all show English-language movies. Atelier (Map pp82-3; %591 918; Sonnenstrasse 12, Ludwigsvorstadt) Art-house cinema in a backyard; Monday is ‘MonGay’ with homo-themed releases. Atlantis (Map pp82-3; %555 152; Schwanthalerstrasse 2, Ludwigsvorstadt) SNEAK A PEEK AT A PREVIEW If you want to be the first to see tomor- row’s blockbuster, head to these theatres for a sneak preview, which is when studios gauge a movie’s popularity before its gen- eral release. You won’t know which film you’ll see, but the cheaper tickets, cool short films, lack of advertising and general suspense make sneaks a super-popular night out. Cinema has them Friday at 11pm, Atlantis Wednesday at 9pm and Mathäser that night at 10.30pm. For more, see www .sneak-muenchen.de (in German). MUNICH MUNICH 124 MUNICH •• Entertainment  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  MUNICH •• Shopping 125 ‘OUT’ & ABOUT IN MUNICH Munich’s gay and lesbian scene is the liveliest in Bavaria but tame if compared to Berlin, Cologne or Amsterdam. The rainbow flag flies especially proudly along Müllerstrasse and the adjoining Glockenbachviertel and Gärtnerplatzviertel. To plug into the scene, keep an eye out for the freebie mags Our Munich and Sergej, which contain up-to-date listings and news about the community and gay-friendly establishments around town. Another source is www.gaymunich.de, which has a small section in English. For help with lodging, check out www.gaytouristoffice.com. Max & Milian (Map pp82-3; %260 3320; Ickstattstrasse 2; h10.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) is Munich’s bastion for queer lit, nonfiction and mags. Sub (Map pp82-3; %260 3056; Müllerstrasse 43, Glockenbachviertel; h7-11pm) is a one-stop service and information agency; lesbians can also turn to Lesbenberatungsstelle (Map pp82-3; %725 4272; Angertorstrasse 3, Gärtnerplatzviertel; h2.30-5pm Mon & Wed, 10.30am-1pm Tue). The festival season kicks off in April with the Verzaubert (www.verzaubertfilmfest.com) film series featuring the best of international queer cinema at Atelier (p123). The main street parties are Christopher Street Day (p110) and the Schwules Strassenfest (www.schwules-strassenfest.de) held in mid-August along Hans-Sachs-Strasse in the Glockenbachviertel. During Oktoberfest (p108), lesbigay folks invade the Bräurosl beer tent on the first Sunday and Fischer-Vroni on the second Monday. Regular gay fun events include MonGay cinema at Atelier (p123) and the Gay Tea-Dance on the second Sunday of the month at the Café im Hochhaus (p120). Bars & Clubs Morizz (Map pp82-3; %201 6776; Klenzestrasse 43) This mod Art Deco–style lounge with red- leather armchairs and mirrors for posing and preening goes for a more moneyed clientele and even gets the occasional local celebrity drop in. The service is impeccable, the food’s good, and the wine and whisky list keeps everyone happily pickled. Packed on weekends. Mathäser Filmpalast (Map pp82-3; %515 651; www .mathaeser.de; Bayerstrasse 5, Altstadt) Modern 14-screen multiplex in a former beer hall. Museum-Lichtspiele (Map p85; %482 403; www .museum-lichtspiele.de; Lilienstrasse 2, Haidhausen) Cult cinema with wacky interior and weekly screenings of Rocky Horror Picture Show (Saturday nights) and Luchino Visconti’s Death in Venice (Sunday mornings) Cinema (Map p81; %555 255; www.cinema-muenchen .de; Nymphenburger Strasse 31, Neuhausen) Cult cinema with all films in English, all the time. Theatre Bayerisches Staatsschauspiel (%218 501; www .bayerischesstaatsschauspiel.de; Max-Joseph-Platz 1, Altstadt) This leading ensemble has a bit of a conser- vative streak but still manages to find relev- ance for today’s mad mad world in works by Shakespeare, Schiller and other tried-and- true playwrights. Performances are in the Residenztheater (Map pp82–3), the Theater im Marstall (Marstallstrasse, Map pp82–3) and the theatre in the Haus der Kunst (Map p81). Münchner Kammerspiele (Map pp82-3; %2333 7000; www.muenchner-kammerspiele.de; Maximilianstrasse 26-28, Altstadt) Just as venerable as the Staats- schauspiel, this stage has an edgier, more populist bent and delivers provocative in- terpretations of the classics as well as works by contemporary playwrights. Performances are in a beautifully refurbished Art Nouveau theatre at Maximilianstrasse and in the Neues Haus (Map pp82–3), a new glass cube at Falckenbergstrasse 1. Touring Broadway productions and shows like Stomp or Blue Man Group find a tem- porary home at the Deutsches Theater (Map pp82-3; %5523 4444; Schwanthalerstrasse 13, Ludwigsvorstadt), while the Komödie am Max II (Map p85; %221 859; Maximilianstrasse 47, Lehel) is the place to catch lightweight comedies, often starring German TV actors. Spectator Sports FC Bayern München (%6993 1333; www.fcbayern. de) This is one of the most successful soccer clubs in history and has won the German cup and other championships more often than any other team. Home games are at the Allianz Arena (p104) and usually sell out far in advance. Tickets can be ordered online. Watch the team training for free at Säbener Strasse 51 (Map pp78–9) in Harlaching. Nil (Map pp82-3; %265 545; Hans-Sachs-Strasse 2) A construct in wood and marble, this chill café- bar is open till 3am and a good place to crash after the party has stopped elsewhere. If you need a reality check, a plate of its kick-ass goulash soup should do the trick. NY Club (Map pp82-3; %6223 2152; Sonnenstrasse 25; hFri & Sat) After a complete revamp, it’s again ‘Raining Men’ at Munich’s hottest gay dance temple where you can party away with Ibiza-style abandon on the cool, back-lit main floor. Die Carmens (Map pp82-3; %2300 0496; Theklastrasse 1; hFri & Sat) This sizzling venue for dancing, cruising and drinking attracts the entire GLBT community with quirky décor and an upbeat music mix of ‘80s, charts and club sounds. Transgendered folks get in for free. Teddy Bar (Map pp82-3; %260 3359; Hans-Sachs-Strasse 1) Presided over by cuddly Fridl, this is a friendly, been-there-forever kind of bar for ‘bears’ and friends that still manages to stay current and cool. The crowd is generally older and you can actually hear yourself talk. Happy hour till 9pm Monday to Thursday. Bau (Map pp82-3; %269 208; Müllerstrasse 41) Bilevel bar that’s party central for manly men with nary a twink in sight but plenty of leather, Levis and uniforms. The foam parties in the small cellar darkroom are legendary. Deutsche Eiche (Map pp82-3; %231 1660; Reichenbachstrasse 13) A Munich institution, this was once filmmaker Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s favourite hang-out. It’s still a popular spot and packs in a mixed crowd for its comfort food and fast service. Bei Carla (Map pp82-3; %227 901; Baaderstrasse 16) This energised scene staple behind the drab façade has been keeping lesbians happy since, well, like forever. It’s a popular spot with a good mixed-age crowd, lots of regulars and snack foods if you’re feeling peckish. Take the U1 to Mangfallplatz, then bus 139 to Säbener Strasse. The Allianz Arena is also home turf for Munich’s ‘other’ soccer team, the peren- nial underdogs TSV 1860 (%01805-601 860; www .tsv1860.de). They only play in Germany’s second league but still have an enormously loyal fan base. The team trains at Grünwalder Strasse 114 (Map pp78–9), also in Harlaching (take tram 25 to Südtiroler Strasse). Call ahead for training times. SHOPPING Munich is a fun and sophisticated place to shop that goes far beyond chains and de- partment stores. If you want those, head to Neuhauser Strasse and Kaufingerstrasse. East of there, Sendlinger Strasse has smaller and somewhat more individualistic stores, includ- ing a few resale and vintage emporia. To truly ‘unchain’ yourself, though, you need to hit the Gärtnerplatzviertel and Glock- enbachviertel, the bastion of well-edited indie stores and local designer boutiques. Hans- Sachs-Strasse and Reichenbachstrasse are especially promising. Maxvorstadt, especially Türkenstrasse, also has an interesting line- up of stores with stuff you won’t find on the high street back home. Shoe fetishistas can indulge their lusts on Hohenzollernstrasse in Schwabing. Maximilianstrasse, meanwhile, is the catwalk for the Prada and Escada brigade, especially in the new, minimalist Max- imilianhöfe in the Bürkleinbau just past the Nationaltheater. Snob shoppers will also be happy on Theatinerstrasse (home of the Fünf Höfe arcade), on Residenzstrasse and Brienner Strasse. Here’s a quick and dirty selection of shops you might find of interest: Beauty & Nature (Map pp82-3; %2423 1233; 1st fl, Westenrieder Strasse 35, Altstadt; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) All natural, all the time, is the motto at this drugstore that stocks only top-performing products by Dr Hauschka, Logona, Lavera and other Euro brands, usually at much lower prices than found overseas. Ask about its manicures and beauty treatments. Servus Heimat (Map pp82-3; %2429 4780; Brunnstrasse 3, Altstadt) Everything a gift shop should be – fun, happy to see you and stocked with unique souvenirs that play with Bavarian symbols like tees emblazoned with Empress MUNICH MUNICH 126 MUNICH •• Getting There & Away lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com AROUND MUNICH •• Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land 127 Sisi or the Olympic Stadium outline. Campy, tongue-in-cheek chic. Sebastian Wesely (Map pp82-3; %264 519; Rindermarkt 1, Altstadt; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) If you’re in the market for traditional souv- enirs, this little shop (in business since 1557) has floor-to-ceiling shelves of carved angels, pewter tankards, beer steins, carved figurines and handmade candles. The saleswomen are quick with a smile and happy to help. Siebter Himmel (Map pp82-3; %267 053; Hans-Sachs- Strasse 17, Glockenbachviertel; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am- 6pm Sat) Cool hunters will be in seventh heaven when browsing the assortment of fashions and accessories by hip indie labels like Pussy de Luxe, Indian Rose and Religion, all sold at surprisingly reasonable prices. Complement your new outfit with shoes from Schuhhimmel across the street. Flohmarkt Riem (Map pp78-9; %9605 1632; Willy- Brandt-Platz, Riem; h6am-4pm Sat) Like urban archaeologists, you have to sift through trash and detritus to unearth treasure at Bavaria’s largest flea market, far out of town by the trade fair grounds in Riem. Take the U2 to Messestadt-Ost. Loden-Frey (Map pp82-3; %210 390; Maffeistrasse 5-7, Altstadt) Stocks a wide range of Bavarian wear. Expect to pay at least €300 for a good leather jacket, pair of lederhosen or dirndl dress. Holareidulijö (Map p81; %271 7745; Schellingstrasse 81, Maxvorstadt; hnoon-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) If Loden-Frey’s price tags are too steep, check this out. The name is a phonetic yodel, approp- riate for a store that carries preloved leder- hosen and other folkwear in good condition. Click, click, click... is the sound of cus- tomers flipping through the well-edited selection of new and used CDs and vinyl at Optimal (Map pp82-3; %268 185; Kolosseumstrasse 6, Glockenbachviertel; h11am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) and Resonanz (Map pp82-3; %2020 5205; Auenstrasse 4, h11am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat), Munich’s best purveyors of indie sounds with handy listening stations. For classical music and jazz recordings there’s no better selection – and more knowledgeable staff – than at Ludwig Beck (Map pp82-3; %2369 1441; Marienplatz 11) on the 4th floor of the eponymous department store. Other shops: Foto-Video-Media Sauter (Map pp82-3; %5515 0450; Sonnenstrasse 26, Altstadt) The largest camera and video shop in town. Porzellan Manufaktur Nymphenburg Altstadt (Map pp82-3; %282 428; Odeonsplatz 1, Altstadt; h10am- 6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat); Schloss Nymphenburg (Map p80; %179 1970; Nördliches Schlossrondell 8, Nymphen- burg; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri) Traditional and contemporary porcelain masterpieces by the royal manufacturer. GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Munich’s sparkling Flughafen München (Munich International Airport; %975 00, flight inquiries 9752 1313; www.munich-airport.de) is easy to navigate and – within Germany – second in importance only to Frankfurt for international and domestic flights. The main carrier is Lufthansa, but other international airlines serving Munich include Air France, British Airways, Delta, easyJet, El Al, Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) and United Airlines. For contact and flight information see p321. Bus The Busabout (p323) hop-on hop-off bus service comes through Munich on the North- ern Loop and the Southern Loop with pickup and dropoff at Wombat’s City Hostel (Map pp82–3). Europabus (p325) links Munich to the Romantic Road. For details of fares and time- tables inquire at EurAide (p76) or Deutsche Touring (Map pp82-3; %8898 9513; www.touring.com; Hirtenallee 14) near the Hauptbahnhof. BEX BerlinLinienBus (%01801-546 436; www.berlin linienbus.de) runs daily buses between Berlin and Munich (one way/return €45/84, 81⁄2 hours), via Ingolstadt, Nuremberg, Bayreuth and Leipzig. Buses depart from bus platform 5 on Arnulfstrasse, north of the Hauptbahnhof. In spring 2009 a new central bus station is expected to open near Hackerbrücke. Car & Motorcycle Munich has autobahns radiating in all direc- tions. Take the A9 to Nuremberg, the A8 to Salzburg, the A95 to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the A8 to Ulm or Stuttgart. All major car-hire companies have offices at the airport. Sixt (Budget), Hertz, Avis and Europcar have counters on the 2nd level of the Hauptbahnhof. Train Train services from Munich are excellent. There are swift direct connections to such key destinations in Bavaria as Nuremberg (€45, one hour), Regensburg (€22, 11⁄2 hours) and Würzburg (€59, two hours). Going to Freiburg (€78, 41⁄2 hours) or Baden-Baden (€72, four hours) requires a change, usually in Mannheim. There are also frequent direct serv- ices to Berlin (€105, 53⁄4 hours), Frankfurt (€81, three hours) and Cologne (€119, 41⁄2 hours); and to other European cities, such as Vienna (€72, 41⁄4 hours), Prague (€52, six hours) and Zürich (€61, 41⁄4 hours). There’s also a night train to Paris (price varies, 10 hours). GETTING AROUND Central Munich is compact enough to explore on foot. To get to the outlying suburbs make use of the public transport network, which is extensive and efficient. To/From the Airport Munich’s airport is about 30km northeast of the city and linked by S-Bahn (S1 and S8) to the Hauptbahnhof. The trip costs €8.80, takes about 40 minutes and runs every 20 minutes from 3am until around 12.30am. The Lufthansa Airport Bus (%323 040) shut- tles at 20-minute intervals between the air- port and Arnulfstrasse at the Hauptbahnhof between 5.10am and 9.40pm. The trip takes about 45 minutes and costs €10 (return €16). A taxi from the airport to the Altstadt costs about €55. Car & Motorcycle Driving in central Munich can be a nightmare; many streets are one way or pedestrian only, ticket enforcement is Orwellian and parking is a nightmare. Car parks (indicated on the tourist office map) charge about €1.50 to €2 per hour. Public Transport TICKETS & FARES The Munich region is divided into four zones with most places of visitor interest (except Dachau and the airport) conveniently clus- tering within the ‘white’ Innenraum (inner zone). Short rides (Kurzstrecke; four bus or tram stops; or two U-Bahn or S-Bahn stops) cost €1.10, longer trips cost €2.20. Children aged between six and 14 pay a flat €1.10 re- gardless of the length of the trip. Cut down costs by buying a strip card (Streifenkarte) of 10 tickets for €10.50, then stamp one strip for short trips or two strips for longer ones. Day passes are €5 for individuals and €9 for up to five people travelling together. Three-day passes are €12.30/21. There’s also a weekly pass called IsarCard, which costs €15.80 but is only valid from Monday to Sunday – if you buy on Wednesday, it’s still only good until Sunday. For details about the Bayern-Ticket, see p328. Bikes costs €2.50 and may only be taken aboard U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains, but not during the 6am to 9am and 4pm to 6pm rush hours. BUYING & USING TICKETS Bus drivers sell single tickets and day passes but tickets for the U- /S-Bahn and other passes must be purchased from vending machine at stations or MVV offices. Tram tickets are available from vending machines aboard. Tickets must be stamped (validated) at sta- tion platform entrances and aboard buses and trams before use. The fine for getting caught without a valid ticket is €40. Taxi Taxis cost €2.70 at flag fall (€3.70 if ordered by phone), plus €1.25 to €1.60 per kilome- tre and are not much more convenient than public transport. Luggage is charged at €0.50 per piece. Ring a taxi on %216 10 or %194 10. Taxi ranks are indicated on the city’s tourist map. AROUND MUNICH STARNBERGER FÜNF-SEEN-LAND pop 85,000 / elev 584m Once a royal retreat and still a popular place of residence with the rich and famous, the Fünf-Seen-Land (Five Lakes District) is set in a glacial plane and makes a fast and easy escape from the urban bustle of Munich. Munich’s excellent public transport system is composed of buses, trams, the U-Bahn and the S-Bahn. It’s operated by MVV, which maintains offices in the U-Bahn stations at Marienplatz, Hauptbahnhof, Sendlinger Tor, Odeonsplatz, Olympiazentrum, Karlsplatz and Münchner Freiheit. Staff hand out free network maps and timetables, sell tickets and answer questions. Automated trip planning is available by phone (%4142 4344) and online (www.mvv-muenchen.de). The U-Bahn and S-Bahn cease opera- tion at around 12.30am Monday to Friday and 1.30am on weekends when night buses (Nachtbusse) ferry home night owls and shift workers. MUNICH MUNICH 128 AROUND MUNICH •• Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com AROUND MUNICH •• Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land 129 The largest lake is the narrow 21km-long Starnberger See, nicknamed ‘Munich’s bathtub’ and ringed by a necklace of resorts, includ- ing Starnberg, Berg, Pöcking-Possenhofen, Feldafing, Tutzing, Bernried and Seeshaupt. The road linking all these communities can get terribly clogged, especially on summer weekends. It also rarely skirts the lake shore, much of which is privately owned. There is, however, a paved trail dedicated to biking and walking along the shore. Circumnavigating the entire lake (50km) takes about 12 hours on foot and four hours by bike. The other lakes – Ammersee, Pilsensee, Wörthsee and Wesslinger See – are smaller and offer more secluded charm. Swimming, boating and windsurfing are popular activities on all lakes, and the district is also crisscrossed by a 250km network of bike paths and 185km of hiking trails. This area has long been a favourite with the Bavarian nobility. The 19th-century ‘fairy- tale’ king Ludwig II – ‘Kini’ to his adoring fans – had a soft spot for the Starnberger See. That is until he mysteriously drowned in the lake on the eastern shore. Ludwig’s bosom buddy, Empress Sisi of Austria (1837–98), spent many a summer staying in Possenhofen on the western shore; her descendent Otto von Habsburg – head of the Austrian royal family – still lives in nearby Pöcking. The present head of the Wittelsbach family, the art-loving Duke Franz, still uses Ludwig’s former palace in Berg. Information Tourist Information Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land (%08151-906 00; www.sta5.de, in German; Wittelsbach- erstrasse 2c, Starnberg; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri Nov-May, also 9am-1pm Sat May-Oct) Regional tourist office just north of Bahnhofsplatz, with a free room-finding service and trip planning to other lake towns. The website has links to all tourist offices in the local communities. Sights STARNBERG The town of Starnberg is the northern gateway to the lake district but lacks any lasting allure, so most people head straight on to the other towns. The train station is just steps from the cruise-boat landing docks, pedal-boat hire, the regional tourist office and the Museum Starnberger See (%08151-772 132; www.museum-starn berger-see.de, in German; Possenhofener Strasse 5, enter on Bahnhofsplatz; adult/child €1.50/0.50; h10am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun). You may have to duck your head when touring this 400-year-old farmhouse that offers a glimpse into yesteryear’s life on the lake and also boasts a precious Ignaz Günther sculpture in the little chapel. By the time you’re reading this, a modern extension showcasing a fancy royal barge and an exhibit on its construction, use and purpose should have opened. Starnberg is just 30 minutes by S6 from Munich (€4.40 or four strips on the Streifenkarte). BERG It’s about an hour’s walk (4km) from Starnberg to Berg on the northeastern lake shore, where King Ludwig II spent summers on Schloss Berg and where he and his doctor died in 1886 under mysterious circumstances. The palace and its lovely gardens still belong to the Wittelsbach family and are closed to prying eyes, but you’re free to walk through its wooded park to the Votivkapelle (Votive Chapel; %08151-5276; ad- mission free; h9am-5pm Apr-Oct). Built in honour of Ludwig and shrouded by mature trees, this neo-Romanesque memorial chapel overlooks the spot in the lake – marked by a simple cross, AROUND MUNICH 0 10 km 0    6 miles Aichach Scheyern Altomünster A9 Petershausen Freising Markt Indersdorf Munich International Airport A9 MUNICH A8 A92 Schleissheim Dachau Wesslinger Gauting Wörthsee See Fürstenfeldbruck Puchheim A96 A95 A99 Vaterstetten Pilsensee Seefeld Herrsching Starnberg Oberhaching Sauerlach A8 Ammersee Pöcking Andechs Diessen Feldafing Tutzing Ilkahöhe Bernried Weilheim Berg Possenhofen Münsing Wolfratshausen Starnberger See Oberambach Ambach Seeshaupt Holzkirchen Geretsried Peissenberg Penzberg Bad Tölz Waakirchen A95 Tegernsee erected years later by his mother – where Ludwig’s dead body was supposedly found. POSSENHOFEN & FELDAFING Austrian empress Sisi, cousin of Ludwig II, spent her childhood summers at Schloss Possenhofen, a chunky cream-coloured pal- ace on the western shore of Lake Starnberg. It’s since been converted into condos but the grounds are now a huge leisure park with lake access, volleyball nets and barbecue pits that’s swarmed with stressed-out city folk on hot summer weekends. To learn a bit more about the Sisi mystique, swing by the new Kaiserin- Elisabeth-Museum (%08151-164 79; Schlossbergstrasse 2; admission free; h2-6pm Fri-Sun Jun-early Oct or by ap- pointment). It’s a small exhibit in the grand sur- roundings of the former royal waiting rooms of the historic Bahnhof Possenhofen, now the S-Bahn station. Sisi was so taken with the lake’s beauty that she returned as an adult to summer in what is now the Hotel Kaiserin Elisabeth (%08157-930 90; Tutzinger Strasse 2), in the hamlet of Feldafing a couple of kilometres south. A larger-than-life sculpture in the garden shows her with a book in relaxed repose, gazing back at the hotel. You can eat in the rustic Ludwigstüberl (p131) or the silver-service restaurant where aproned waiters serve the ‘Sisi Menu’. Fans of Art Nouveau villas should take a spin around Feldafing, which also has a popu- lar swimming beach, the Strandbad Feldafing (%08157-8200; adult/child/student €4.50/2.50/3.50; h10am-10pm daily mid-Mar–mid-Oct, 10am-10pm Thu- Sun mid-Oct–mid-Mar). From the Strandbad, it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the Glockensteg, the place to catch a historical ferry called Plette (%0171-722 2266; adult/child/student €4/1/3; hMay–mid-Oct in good weather) to the Roseninsel. Sisi and Ludwig fre- quently rendezvoused on this romantic island, where Ludwig also received other luminaries, Richard Wagner among them. Neglected for a century after the king’s death, the island, rose garden and his summerhouse, called the Casino (adult/under 18 yr/child €3/free/2; hnoon-6pm Tue-Sun May–mid-Oct), have been restored and are now open to the public. A small exhibit in the garden house (same hours, included in admission) has displays of about 6000 years of the island’s history. Possenhofen and Feldafing are both stops on the S6 from Munich (€6.60 or six strips of a Streifenkarte, 40 minutes). BUCHHEIM MUSEUM A bronze statue of a BMW sprouting octopus- like tentacles is the mind-teasing overture to the full symphony of art and objects at the amazing Buchheim Museum (%08158-997 00; www .buchheimmuseum.de; Am Hirschgarten 1, Bernried; adult/ child/student/family €8.50/3.50/3.50/18, combined boat & museum ticket €16; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am- 5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar), right on the Starnberger See about 1km north of the town of Bernried. The modernist structure by Olympia Stadium architect Günter Behnisch houses the pri- vate collection of Lothar-Günther Buchheim, author of Das Boot, the novel that inspired the famous film. The heart and soul of the museum are German Expressionist works by members of Die Brücke (The Bridge), an artist group founded in Dresden in 1905. The bright, emotionally coloured canvasses by Ludwig Kirchner, Emil Nolde, Max Beckmann, Otto Dix and Karl Schmidt-Rottluff marked the beginning of modern art in Germany. Other galleries present a fascinating hotchpotch of global arts and crafts, which justifies the museum’s subtitle ‘Museum of the Imagination’. You’ll see handsome Art Nouveau vases, African masks, Japanese woodcuts, jewellery from India and a stun- ning collection of some 3000 paperweights. The most scenic approach to the museum is by an hour-long boat trip (combination ticket with museum €17, no concessions; h3 sailings daily except Mon May-Oct) from Starnberg. Alternatively, take the RegionalBahn (RB) to Tutzing, then take either bus 9614 to the ‘LVA Höhenried’ stop near the museum (weekday only) or another RB train to Bernried, then walk north for about 15 minutes. ANDECHS Founded in the 10th century, the hilltop Kloster Andechs (Andechs Monastery; %08152-3760; www.andechs.de; Bergstrasse 2, Andechs; admission free) has long been a place of pilgrimage, although these days more visitors come to quaff the Benedictine monks’ fabled brews, which rank among Bavaria’s finest. Religious pilgrims are drawn by several rel- ics in the monastery’s possessions, including a piece said to have come from Christ’s crown- of-thorns. Some of the offertory candles in the holy chapel stand over 1m tall and are among Germany’s oldest. The church itself boasts a rococo riot of frescoes, sculptures and a sophisticated altar designed by Munich MUNICH MUNICH 130 AROUND MUNICH •• Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com  AROUND MUNICH •• Dachau 131 court architect François Cuvilliés. In June and July the Carl Orff Festival celebrates the Bavarian composer of Carmina Burana (see the boxed text on p147) with a series of concerts; he’s buried inside the church. Most visitors to the ‘Holy Mountain’, as Andechs is known, really come to worship at the Braustüberl, the monastery’s beer hall and garden. The resident monks have been brewing beer for over 500 years and serve a deliciously sudsy Helles, a rich and velvety Doppelbock Dunkel and fresh, unfiltered Weissbier. Summer weekends are so insanely busy it’s easy to forget that you’re in a religious institution, pious as your love for the brew may be... For a behind-the-scenes look at the monks’ operations, take a guided tour of the brewery (adult/child €4/2; h11am Tue-Thu May–mid-Oct) or the church (admission free; hnoon Mon-Sat May–mid-Oct). Andechs is served three times daily (twice on Sunday) by bus 951 from the S-Bahn sta- tion in Starnberg Nord (S6; 27 minutes) and the one in Herrsching (S5; 10 minutes). DIESSEN To see one of the area’s most magnificent baroque churches, you must travel to Diessen, some 11km west of Andechs, which is home to the Marienmünster (%08807-948 940; h8am- noon & 2-6pm). Part of a monastery complex, this festive symphony in white stucco, red marble and gold leaf involved some of the most accomplished artists of the 18th cen- tury, including the architect Johann Michael Fischer; François Cuvilliés, who designed a high altar; and Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, who was responsible for an altar painting. Diessen also has the small Carl-Orff-Museum (%08807-919 81; Hofmark 3; adult/concession €2/1; h2- 5pm Sat, Sun & holidays), with a biographical ex- hibit, a cabinet of instruments and a video room where you can watch performances of his work. Activities From Easter to mid-October, Bayerische- Seen-Schifffahrt (BSS; %01851-8061; www.seenschiff fahrt.de) runs scheduled boat services on the Starnberger See and the Ammersee – a lei- surely way to explore the region. In Starnberg, boats leave from the landing docks just south of the main station. For the Ammersee, Herrsching is the most convenient starting point. BSS also offers narrated tours of both lakes, varying from one to four hours and costing from €8 to €15. If cruises are too tame, consider taking a spin around the lake under your own steam. Boat hire is available on the Starnberger See, the Ammersee and the Wörthsee. In Starnberg, Paul Dechant (%08151-121 06; Hauptstrasse 20), near the train station, has row- ing, pedal and electric-powered boats for €13 per hour. In Herrsching, near Andechs on the Ammersee, Alfred Schlamp (%08152-969 533; Summerstrasse 30) charges €7 per hour for his pedal and rowing boats. If the weather plays along, there’s no bet- ter way to explore the area than by bicycle. Radhaus Starnberg (%08151-167 14; Wittelsbacherstrasse 20; per day €10) in Starnberg and Fahrradgeschäft Nandlinger (%08152-1266; Mühlfelder Strasse 5; per day €10) in Herrsching have a decent selection of two wheelers. Bike It (%08151-746 430; Bahnhofstrasse 1) in Starnberg runs guided bike tours from €25. There’s a famous in-line skating stretch on the eastern shore between Berg and Ambach. There’s plenty of good hiking as well. A de- lightful half-day trip starts in Tutzing and goes via a moderate ascent to the Ilkahöhe, which is a 730m hill with a restaurant (opposite), beer garden and panoramic lake views. Sleeping DJH Hostel Possenhofen (%08157-996 611; www.pos senhofen.jugendherberge.de, in German; Kurt-Stieler-Strasse 18, Pöcking-Possenhofen; dm €21, s/d €29/50; pi) A jewel among DJH hostels, this mod- ern, spacious and well-run contender sits next to Schloss Possenhofen and a popular swimming beach. Hotel Alte Linde (%08157-933 180; www.linde -wieling.de, in German; Wieling 5, Feldafing; s €55-88, d €80- 110; pn) Run with panache and personal- ity, this congenial inn welcomes guests with modern country-style elegance. The nicest rooms have unique features such as sleeping alcove or four-poster beds below a painted ceiling. Enjoy a cold one in the beer garden, then savour delicious modern, organic twists on classic Bavarian in the restaurant, where mains cost about €10 to €18. Schlossgut Oberambach (%08177-9323; www .schlossgut.de; Oberambach 1, Münsing; s/d €120/240; pnais) Dreams will be sweet in the ecofriendly and charmingly Mediterranean rooms of this certified ‘biohotel’ with private lake access. Renewable sources provide all the energy and there’s also a wonderful Ayurvedic spa to recharge your own batteries before feeding stomach and soul with big-flavoured, contemporary country cooking (mains €12-24). Eating Ludwigstüberl (%08157-930 90; Tutzinger Strasse 2, Feldafing; Brotzeit €6-9, mains €10-20; hdinner Wed-Mon, lunch Sun) On cold nights it’s a treat to sit near the fireplace in this cosy tavern, digging into a soulful menu ranging from salads to roast beef. Bookings are recommended. It’s part of the Kaiserin Elisabeth Hotel; don’t confuse this place with the stuffy hotel restaurant. Forsthaus Ilkahöhe (%08158-8242; Auf der Ilkahöhe, Tutzing; mains €16-23; hWed-Sun) It’s hard to tell what’s more appealing: the gourmet regional cuisine or the idyllic hilltop setting, with spectacular views of the Starnberger See and the Alps. Come for a full meal or just a foamy Mass in the beer garden, open daily in fine weather. Braustüberl (%08152-376 261; Bergstrasse 2, Andechs; mains €3-15; h10am-8pm) Food may seem an after- thought here, but the hearty roast pork, leber- käse and home-made cheeses actually go a long way to keeping your balance. Klostergasthof (%08152-930 90; Bergstrasse 9; mains €7.50-17; h10am-11pm) For a more sophisticated experience, make reservations here. Dechant’s Fischladen (%08151-121 06; Hauptstrasse 20, Starnberg; mains €8-12; h10am-7pm Tue-Thu, 10am- midnight Fri) Clued-in fish fans book a table in the tiny restaurant attached to this place to enjoy the day’s catch. Getting There & Away Starnberglies25kmsouthwestofcentralMunich– a half-hour’s journey by car or S-Bahn. The S6 links Munich with Starnberg and Possenhofen, Feldafing and Tutzing on the western lake shore. The S5 goes from Munich to Herrsching am Ammersee in about 45 minutes. DACHAU %08131 / pop 40,100 / elev 508 Mention Dachau and most people shudder at the thought of the atrocities committed in the infamous Nazi concentration camp, now visited by more than 800,000 people each year. Few of them realise that there was a town of Dachau some 1100 years before the camp was built. Fewer still ever make it to the town’s little Altstadt with its historic buildings, a pretty Renaissance palace and garden. And hardly anyone knows that in the late 19th to the early 20th century, Dachau had a thriving artists colony, whose leading lights included Carl Spitzweg and Max Liebermann. Even today, about 100 artists live in Dachau. Orientation & Information Dachau’s Bahnhof is about 3.5km southwest of the concentration camp memorial and about 1km southeast of the Altstadt, where you’ll find the tourist office (%752 86; www.dachau.info; Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse 1, Dachau; h9am-1pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 2-6pm Thu). Aside from dispensing maps, bro- chures and information, staff at the office also rent out audioguides (€2.50) for self-guided Altstadt tours taking about 90 minutes. Sights DACHAU CONCENTRATION CAMP MEMORIAL The way to freedom is to follow one’s orders; exhibit honesty, orderliness, cleanliness, sobriety, truthfulness, the ability to sacrifice and love of the Fatherland. Inscription from the roof of the concentration camp at Dachau Dachau was the Nazis’ first concentration camp; it was built by Heinrich Himmler in March 1933 and became the prototype for all other camps. Originally meant to corral political prisoners, it also held thousands of Jews after the 1938 pogroms. All in all, some 32,000 people died at the camp, but it was not specifically designed as a ‘death camp’ such as Auschwitz. Instead it was a ‘slave la- bour camp’, where most deaths resulted from disease, exhaustion and starvation. Budget two to three hours to fully absorb the haunt- ing exhibits. Children under 12 may find the experience too disturbing. Information The memorial (%669 970; www.kz-gedenkstaette -dachau.de; Alte Römerstrasse 75, Dachau; admission free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) is in the northeastern corner of Dachau. Map pamphlets in about a dozen languages are available for €0.50. For more in-depth descriptions, pick up the brochure Dachau Concentration Camp (€2) or the de- tailed catalogue (€15). A 22-minute English- language documentary runs at 11.30am and 3.30pm. No refreshments are available at the memorial, so bring at least something to drink, especially in summer. MUNICH MUNICH 132 AROUND MUNICH •• Dachau  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com AROUND MUNICH •• Schleissheim 133 The Memorial You enter the compound through the Jourhaus, originally the only entrance. Set in wrought iron, the chilling slogan ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ (Work Sets You Free) hits you at the gate. Beyond here is the former roll-call square, where the prisoners were counted every morning and evening and assigned to their work details. On your right is the former utility build- ing, now the main documentation centre, which details what happened to prisoners at the camp. Newcomers were registered in the shunt room, where they also had to surrender all their personal clothes and belongings. The ‘baths’ were indeed initially used to disinfect the new inmates and shave their heads. After 1941, though, the SS converted the room into a torture and execution chamber; the whip- ping block is still there. Executions also took place in the bunker courtyard behind the exhibit building. The bunker itself was the notorious camp prison where inmates were tortured to extort ‘confessions’; some of the cells are too small for prisoners to even sit. Inmates were housed in large barracks, now demolished, which used to line the main road north of the roll-call square. Two have been reconstructed; of the other 32 you can only see the outlines. Built for 6000 prisoners, they housed more than 30,000 at the time of libera- tion in 1945. At the end of the central camp road, be- hind the former barracks, is a cluster of reli- gious memorials that includes a Catholic chapel, a Protestant church and a Jewish memorial. A Russian Orthodox chapel is a little off to the side, en route to perhaps the camp’s most haunting site: the crematorium in the northwest corner, outside of the camp boundaries. Also here is a gas chamber, disguised as a shower room, but never used. Instead, prisoners marked for gassing were sent to other camps. Tours To maximise your educational experience, we highly recommend taking a guided tour, but be absolutely sure to join tours author- ised by the memorial staff, such as those listed below. Dachauer Forum (%996 880; ticket €3; h1.30pm Tue-Sun, noon Sat & Sun May-Sep 1.30pm Thu, Sat & Sun Oct-Apr; duration 21⁄2hr) Volunteer-run English- language tours. Buy tickets at white containers along the entranceway. Also available are half-hour introductions for €1.50. These are held at 12.30pm Tuesday to Sunday and 11am Saturday and Sunday from May to September, and 12.30pm Thursday, Saturday and Sunday October to April. Self-guided audio tour (adult/child €3/2; duration up to 2hr) If you prefer to go at your own pace, pick up one of these, also available at the containers. Radius Tours & Bikes (%5502 9374; www.radius munich.com; adult/child under 14 €21/10.50; h9.15am & 12.30pm Tue-Sun Apr–mid-Oct, 11am Jun, Jul & mid- Oct–Mar; duration 5hr) English-language tours leaving from opposite track 32 in the Hauptbahnhof. Tickets in- clude public transport from Munich; bookings are advised. New Munich Tours (adult/student €19/15; duration 3hr; hnoon Fri, Sat & Sun) English-language tours departing from Marienplatz. Tickets include public transport. SCHLOSS DACHAU First built as a medieval castle for local no- bles, Schloss Dachau (%879 23; Schlossstrasse 7, Dachau; adult/under 18 yr/concession €2/free/1; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar) was transformed into a monolithic complex in the 16th century for the Wittelsbach dukes, who in turn made it their summer palace. The residence then fell into disrepair and just one of its four wings survived, namely the baroque number you see today. Behind its creamy façade is a festival hall with a magnificent wooden Renaissance ceiling that glorifies the Wittelsbach rul- ers. This is also the delightful setting of the Dachauer Schlosskonzerte, which is a classical concert series (tickets about €17 to €28). Behind the Schloss, the baroque Hofgarten (admission free; h8am-dusk, latest 8pm) harbours an orchard, a rose garden and lovers’ paths shel- tered by a leafy canopy. The terrace of the Schlosscafé overlooks this oasis of calm. GEMÄLDEGALERIE DACHAU The work of Carl Spitzweg, Max Liebermann and other Dachau School artists can be seen in the Gemäldegalerie Dachau (%567 50; www.dachauer -galerien-museen.de; Konrad-Adenauer-Str 3; adult/concession €3.50/2; h11am-5pm Tue-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun), next to the tourist office. Climb up to the roof terrace for a view of the city and the landscape that inspired them. Getting There & Around Dachau is about 16km northwest of central Munich. The S2 makes the trip from Munich Hauptbahnhof to the station in Dachau in 22 minutes. You’ll need a two-zone ticket (€4.40) or four strips of a Streifenkarte, including the bus connection. Here change to bus 720/722 to get to the Altstadt and the Schloss and bus 726 (direction ‘Saubachsiedlung’) to get to the camp. Show your stamped ticket to the driver. By car, follow Dachauer Strasse straight out to Dachau and follow the Altstadt or KZ-Gedenkstätte signs. SCHLEISSHEIM %089 / pop 5700 / elev 486m The northern Munich suburb of Schleissheim is renowned for its three palaces and an avia- tion museum. A combination ticket to the palaces is €6/5 adult/concession. Children under 18 years are free. The crown jewel of the palatial trio is the Neues Schloss Schleissheim (New Palace; %315 8720; www.schloesser-schleissheim.de; Max-Emanuel-Platz 1, Schleissheim; adult/concession €4/3; h9am-6pm Apr- Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar, closed Mon). This pompous pile was dreamed up by Prince-Elector Max Emanuel in 1701 in anticipation of his pro- motion to emperor. It never came. Instead he was forced into exile for over a decade and didn’t get back to building until 1715. Cash flow problems required the scaling back of the original plans, but given the palace’s huge dimensions (the façade is 330m long) and opulent interior, it’s hard to imagine where exactly they cut back. Some of the fin- est artists of the baroque era were called in to create such eye-candy sights as the cer- emonial staircase, the Victory Hall and the Grand Gallery. There are outstanding pieces of period furniture, including the elector’s four-poster bed, amazing intricately inlaid tables, and a particularly impressive ceiling fresco by Cosmas Damian Asam. The palace is home to the Staatsgalerie (State Gallery), a selection of European baroque art drawn from the Bavarian State Collection, including works by such masters as Peter Paul Rubens, Antonis van Dyck and Carlo Saraceni. The most impressive room here is the Grand Galerie. While construction was ongoing, the elec- tor resided in the fanciful hunting palace of Schloss Lustheim (%315 8720; adult/concession €3/2; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar, closed Mon), on a little island in the eastern Schlosspark, providing an elegant setting for porcelain masterpieces from Meissen. Nearby, the Altes Schloss Schleissheim (%315 8720; Maximilianshof 1; adult/concession €2.50/1.50; h9am- 6pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar, closed Mon) is a mere shadow of its Renaissance self. It houses paint- ings and sculpture on religious culture and festivals all over the world, including an im- pressive collection of more than 100 crèches. Only a short walk away, the Flugwerft Schleissheim (%315 7140; www.deutsches-museum .de/flugwerft; Effnerstrasse 18; adult/concession/family €5/3/10; h9am-5pm), the aviation branch of the Deutsches Museum (p101), makes for a nice change of pace and aesthetics. Spirits will soar at the sight of the lethal Soviet MiG-21 fighter jet, the Vietnam-era F-4E Phantom and a replica of Otto Lilienthal’s 1894 glider, with a revolutionary wing shaped like Batman’s cape. Another highlight is the open workshop where you can observe the restoration of his- torical flying machines. Kids can climb into an original cockpit, land a plane and even get their ‘pilot’s license’. To get to Schleissheim, take the S1 (di- rection: Freising) to Oberschleissheim, then walk along Mittenheimer Strasse for about 15 minutes towards the palaces. On weekdays only, bus 292 goes to the ‘Schloss Lustheim’ stop. By car, take Leopoldstrasse north until it becomes Ingolstädter Strasse. Then take the A99 to the Neuherberg exit, at the south end of the airstrip. FREISING %08161 / pop 43,000 / elev 448m For a thousand years Freising was the spir- itual and cultural centre of southern Bavaria. Now near the airport, it is a bedroom com- munity for Munich but retains the feel of a traditional market town. In 1821 the bishop bowed to the inevitable and moved his seat to Munich. Freising sank in the ecclesiastical ranking but hung onto its religious gems, the main reasons to visit today. The town was a major way station in the life of Pope Benedict, who studied and taught at the university, was ordained as a priest and later even became archbishop here. Orientation & Information The bulk of Freising’s sights are in the Altstadt on or around the Lehrberg, site of the cathe- dral complex and more popularly known as the Domberg. For information, visit the tourist office (%541 22; www.freising.de, in German; Marienplatz 7; tours per adult/concession/family €6.50/4/12; h9am- 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun). Staff run several guided tours in English, including one that follows in the steps of the Pope. Check for specific times. MUNICH MUNICH 134 AROUND MUNICH •• Freising  lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com  135 Sights Freising’s charming Altstadt is crisscrossed by a tangle of lanes lined by baroque and Renaissance town houses, immaculately restored and clean almost to a fault. Looming over the old town is the Domberg, a hub of religious power with the twin-towered Dom St Maria und St Korbinian (%1810; h8am-noon & 2-5pm, to 6pm May-Oct) as its focal point. The restored church interior is a head-turning masterpiece by the Asam brother megastars, whose baroque frescoes grace the most pious ceilings of Bavaria. Remnants from the Gothic era include the choir stalls and a Lamentation of Christ painting in the left aisle. The altar painting by Rubens is a copy of the original in the Alte Pinakothek museum in Munich. Don’t miss the crypt, not so much to view Korbinian’s mortal remains as to admire the forest of pillars, no two of which are carved alike. The famous Bestiensäule (Beast Pillar) features an epic allegory of Christianity fight- ing the crocodile-like monsters of evil. East of the Dom are the cloisters, whose halls drip with fancy stucco and a thousand years’ homage in marble plaques to the bish- ops of Freising. The baroque hall of the cathe- dral library (h2-3pm Mon-Fri mid-May–Oct) shines with the gold-and-white fantasies of François Cuvilliés, designer of the magnificent Cuvilliés Theatre in Munich. At the western end of the hill is the Dom Museum Freising (%487 90; Domberg 21; adult/child €2/1; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun). The largest ecclesi- astical museum in Germany, it has a Fort Knox–worthy collection of bejewelled gold vessels, reliquaries and ceremonial regalia as well as some exquisite nativity scenes. Pride of place goes to the Lukasbild, a 12th-century Byzantine icon set in its own diminutive sil- ver altar. Upstairs you’ll discover works by Rubens and other masters. Southwest of the Domberg, a former Benedictine monastery hosts, among other university faculties, a respected college of beer brewing. Also here is the Staatsbrauerei Weihenstephan, (%5360; www.weihenstephaner.de; Alte Akademie 2; tours 60/120min €6/9; h10am Mon-Wed, 1.30pm Wed), a brewery founded in 1040, making it the world’s oldest that’s still in operation. Guided tours trace 1000 years of brewery his- tory in the museum, which is followed by a behind-the-scenes spin around the ‘hallowed halls’ and concluded with a beer tasting (you get to keep the glass). Bookings are advised. Tours include a pretzl and a €2 voucher good for souvenirs or another brew served in the beer garden and the vaulted cellar of the Bräustüberl. Getting There & Away Freising is about 35km northeast of Munich at the northern terminus of the S1 (€6.60, 40 minutes) and is also frequently served by faster regional trains (€6.60, 25 minutes). The Domberg and Altstadt are a 10-minute walk from the train station. By car, take Leopoldstrasse north and turn right on Schenkendorfstrasse. Then take the A9 north and the A92 to the Freising-Mitte exity it is a listed building and houses the Federal Office for Migration and Refugees. Aerial view of the KdF Town, 1937. 9 KdF-Town The KdF Town, a recreational area managed by the NS organization Kraft durch Freude (Strength through Joy), was opened in 1937. Folklore and funfair events took place in the wooden buildings to entertain visitors to the Nazi Party Rallies. The buildings burned down during World War II. Housing estates and sports fields now cover this area. Prisoner-of-war camp in Langwasser, 1940. 10 Camp Zone A camp zone was established adjacent to the March Field, southeast of the Nazi Party Rally Grounds. This is where the SA, SS, HJ and other Nazi organizations housed their participants. From 1939 on, parts of the camp zone served as a prisoner-of-war camp, packed with an average number of about 30,000 people from various nations. Camp inmates worked for the City of Nuremberg on the construction sites of the Nazi Party Rally Grounds until 1943. Several thousand of these prisoners died because of insufficient nutrition provided and inadequate accommodation in shacks and tents. On 17/18 April, 1945, the US Army liberated the POW camp Nuremberg-Langwasser. After 1945, the camp was used first as an American internment and international refugee camp. Later it became a Federal reception camp for foreigners. From the 1950s on, the suburb of Langwasser was established on the camp area and on other parts of the former Nazi Party Rally Grounds. Back to Jump Navigation Electronic Communication Data Protection to the White House to tell Nixon his support in Congress had collapsed, they wou